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Old 12-18-2012, 11:07 PM   #181
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:55 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Here is the latest of where i am at with my car



My chassis was not only tweaked, but it was actually bulging from the center, so i shopped around, was curious about your aluminum chassis Marv, but then i found the Exotek chassis.

http://www.exotekracing.com/sprint-spx-pro-chassis-set/

I haven't tried the car yet (friday is my first test), but already the car is MUCH stiffer, and straighter.

There are shims everywhere, i rebuilt the diffs like on this thread, i rebuilt the car from the ground up, i even had to grind out the plastic piece infront of the motor so i can fit my brushless motor, the tabs were rubbing on the frame.

Also - Marv, for the steering, i grinded down the front c-cups a little, but i actually grinded down the 2 steering hubs. I used a 1/8" bit on my dremmel and removed enough so i can do a full lock on my steering now.

Lookin' Good Cadman!

Yeah, most all the S2 chassis are buggered.

I got my aluminum one off eBay from a rouge maker.

I doubt that we'll see any more from him =
He stopped listing them, won't respond to messaging, emails or answer his phone.

There's a maker in the UK that was selling their version on eBay = RadshapeRC.com - BUT it looks like they stopped once they ran out.

I personally like the aluminum for the weight.
But that's not to say I wouldn't try a CF chassis some day.

Do you have pics of what and where you had to grind to get your BLM to fit?

I'm curious = I have the Novak 25.5 SS and didn't have to dremel anything to get it to fit.


Last edited by Marv; 12-22-2012 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:08 AM   #183
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I'll take a pic tonight when i get home.

It was the plastic piece right infront of the motor. The tabs on my motor were right up against the frame, and i couldn't get it all the way in. I saw that HPI makes a spacer, but i don't want to move the motor over to the side, it will affect the balance...
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Old 12-19-2012, 11:17 AM   #184
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The nice thing about CF id that is does not bend, and you can screw stuff into it, like wood.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:46 PM   #185
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Just picked up an HPI Sprint 2 Flux last night. Was gonna get the drift but wanted brushless. I have owned nitro cars and a few electric about 10 years ago.. but nothing recently.

Bought some drift tires with it and a new charger. Gonna get some LiPo batteries and have some fun.

Other than that i was thinking of locking the rear diff, doing a one-way front and possibly a servo upgrade.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:57 PM   #186
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Here is the mod i had to do, the wires are less than 1 mm from the frame

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Old 12-20-2012, 04:26 AM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Here is the mod i had to do, the wires are less than 1 mm from the frame
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-20121212.jpg

Just unsolder the wires and resolder them on the other side of the tabs.


HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4549.jpgHPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4551.jpg
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:35 AM   #188
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I started this thread on 05/22/2012.

Now, almost seven months to the day there has been 20,000+ views.

And - I'm guessing by the numbers - some happier S2 owners.

So, just in case this all turns to a smoldering heap tomorrow 12.21.2012...





If it doesn't...


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Carry on...





A heart felt thanks to all!


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Old 12-20-2012, 08:41 AM   #189
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LOL great post Marv!

As for the motor, I have the Novak Ballistik, the tabs are actually under the orange part, and are shorter than on the SS tabs. I wasn't able to solder them there, there is just not enough material to make a solid bond.

How is that Wolfpack? My rules say i need to get a maximum 5200mah and 30c battery, they make a 5000mah with 25c, and i have 2 Turnigy 4000mah 30C batteries, i wonder if there is a big difference

Last edited by Cadman1981; 12-20-2012 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
LOL great post Marv!

As for the motor, I have the Novak Ballistik, the tabs are actually under the orange part, and are shorter than on the SS tabs. I wasn't able to solder them there, there is just not enough material to make a solid bond.

How is that Wolfpack? My rules say i need to get a maximum 5200mah and 30c battery, they make a 5000mah with 25c, and i have 2 Turnigy 4000mah 30C batteries, i wonder if there is a big difference

Can you take some pics of your motor mounted and post them?

I'd like to see what you're explaining to me about the fit.

I'd hate like hell to have to drop another $100 for a Ballistic just to find out that I have to hack to get it to fit...


TIA!


I went with the Wolfpack based on what Myron/Batmann/Darkside told me about it in a pm some months back.


I hear good things about EAM batteries - EAMotorsports discussion thread

And some not so good things about Gen Ace -

But not until after I purchased two Gen Ace.
Which are still NIB.


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Old 12-20-2012, 09:21 PM   #191
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Here is a view from the top, the tabs are actually in line with the orange metal brace...



Here are the tabs, i can Maybe soder the wires on the back, but i didn't like how it would be just the tip of the wires on the motor, so i put it on top, but i tried to put them as flat as possible.



Here you can see how tight it is at the motor's lowest position
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:22 PM   #192
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EAM batteries make the Reedy wolfpack lipo cells??
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:04 PM   #193
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Default Motor Mount

I went a little different route with my motor. I used a Dremel and notched the aluminum motor mount on that side and have mounted it 180 degrees out from yours. I'm not saying it is any better just different. I thought I would share.

Here is links to pics of my motor mounted in the car:
i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/marvjacobs/one_zps297e3b65.jpg
i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/marvjacobs/two_zps42baf45b.jpg

Again I don't have enough posts yet to post pics, but you can paste the above lines in your browser and it should work.

Have you guys tried different differential oils? I put 200,000 in the front and 40,000 in the rear and it seems to be a good combination. These diffs don't seal so I have to add oil to the rear diff about every three or four nights of racing. The front is so thick that it doesn't leak much. What do you guys use?
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:11 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
EAM batteries make the Reedy wolfpack lipo cells??
No, EAM has his own line of batteries.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:20 PM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aught-Six View Post
I went a little different route with my motor. I used a Dremel and notched the aluminum motor mount on that side and have mounted it 180 degrees out from yours. I'm not saying it is any better just different. I thought I would share.

Here is links to pics of my motor mounted in the car:



Again I don't have enough posts yet to post pics, but you can paste the above lines in your browser and it should work.

Have you guys tried different differential oils? I put 200,000 in the front and 40,000 in the rear and it seems to be a good combination. These diffs don't seal so I have to add oil to the rear diff about every three or four nights of racing. The front is so thick that it doesn't leak much. What do you guys use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
Here is a view from the top, the tabs are actually in line with the orange metal brace...



Here are the tabs, i can Maybe soder the wires on the back, but i didn't like how it would be just the tip of the wires on the motor, so i put it on top, but i tried to put them as flat as possible.



Here you can see how tight it is at the motor's lowest position

THANKS GUYS!!!

That's what I needed to see.

Now I know what to expect when I upgrade to a Ballistic.

Thank for posting the pics!!!

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