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Old 07-23-2013, 03:15 AM   #1336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by napoleon1981 View Post
The way I read the setup form he means a different position on the steering knuckle, but lets see what it is
That's absolutely right.

Tamiya's term for the steering arm / knuckle is the "steering upright".

The setup sheet shows 3 different "upright's".

The upright that comes with the kit is shown near the front right wheel. It has 2 holes for the ball to be screwed into. The manual recommends the hole closest to the rear of the car. My setup uses the hole closest to the front of the car. The effect of this is to increase the ackermann angle of the steering. You can read about the effect of increasing ackermann here: http://www.rctek.com/technical/handl...principle.html

The other two "upright's" on the setup sheet are a hop-up item and have a third hole for the ball which is between the two holes on the kit upright.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadman1981
What does changing the angle of the shock do to the car? i'm using the TRF damper, i can't find the piece/part to make it longer like the stock shock.

Is it like on a 4wd touring? the more angle for more traction?
The way Fred Medel from Tamiya USA explains it in his excellent F104v2 video series (linked from the RC Formula1 F104v2 Chassis Guide) is (and I'm paraphrasing): draw a line down the shock shaft and it will intersect with the main chassis. By reducing the shims under the rear of the shock the line will intersect closer to the front of the chassis and you will get more steering and less rear grip. By increasing the shims under the rear of the shock you increase the angle and the line will intersect the chassis further from the front of the car and you will have less steering and more rear grip.

Fred - if I'm misquoting you feel free to PM me with hate mail

Perhaps someone else can answer your question about the TRF shock. I use the kit shock.

As with all setups I don't recommend just copying it. There may be things on your car that are different to mine eg; the TRF shock. And your track temp and conditions will be different to mine. I suggest looking at my setup and saying to yourself "wow, if this guy is telling the truth then I should be able to overcome the lack of steering with the R1's just by changing my setup, so I'm going to take my existing setup and make one change at a time in the order that he's suggested and see what happens".

Good luck.
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:52 AM   #1337
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Thank you for the info!
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:52 PM   #1338
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Old 07-25-2013, 03:21 PM   #1339
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Default Ferrai F2012 F104

Hi, Just completed the F2012 and the body is the hardest I have ever built.
However I think it came out nice enough for me. Regards
Norman2
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:03 AM   #1340
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So i took appart my car last night to clean it up and re-build it, i noticed my rear pod wasn't as loose as when i built it last time... Is this normal? Should i rebult it after each race regardless? I did have one or 2 bad crashes, maybe the pod shifted...

I am doing minor tweaks to my setup, reversed the battery so the bullet connecters are under the shock, shorter wires, less weight.

I also re-installed the Carbon rear shaft instead of the metal one to help with the car's rear weight.

Lengthened my TRF shock, and i got these - http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1586 for the "extra soft" springs.

I also noticed something really dumb on my part: i couldn't get the Shimizu 571 tires to hook up, but the 579s worked really well, the only differences were the rims. The 571s had Tamiya Foam rims, and the 579s had Exotek rims - I forgot to drill holes for the air on the tamiya rims!! D'OH!
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:54 AM   #1341
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Hi!

Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.

Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?

I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)

Cheers,
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:42 AM   #1342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter $ View Post
Hi!

Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.

Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?

I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)

Cheers,
Peter
I run my Exotek F1R with a shorty at the back of the car, this has made my car drivable on foams... I also use the exotek steering on my F1R, as can be seen on the Exotek page : http://www.exotekracing.com/f1r-conversion/
My ESC and receiver go on the outside of the battery.

OK I know it is not a F104V2 but it is a very similar car.

We run 13.5T motors on an outdoor track, with a 50 meter straight.
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:29 AM   #1343
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Default Battery forward...

[QUOTE=Peter $;12399966]Hi!

Regarding using a shorty lipo i an F104 v2.

Is there a consensus about which is better: Placing the battery in the front, or in the back og the car?

I'm about to assemble my first 104, and it would be nice to have the electronics installed right the first time ;-)

Cheers,
Peter[/QUOT [/I] Peter I own a F1R and a Pro4 VII, I am running rubber tire carpet. Both cars are set up with the speedo in the back, battery in the middle, and the receiver behind the servo, (shorty 2cell pack). this gives me room to move the battery forward and back for chassis tuning. I am trying send a picture, I hope it works
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:39 AM   #1344
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@ tudor_47 & TWILL: Thanks for your replies. Can the battery stay in place, just by taping it? If so it would make sense to make room for the battery to be able to slide back and forward, according to the track.

I will (most likely) be driving on foam on carpet, with a Silvercan motor (unless they change the rules for the indoor season).

Cheers,
P
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:42 AM   #1345
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I run 21.5, rubber on both carpet and asphalt. Shorty is against the servo, esc and receiver are towards the back all in line. From the "football" forward, ESC, Receiver, battery. Battery is taped in.
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:42 AM   #1346
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Default Taping is a good idea!

Peter, I just tape my battery in the car, but make sure that you file the chassis where the tape goes through so the edges aren't sharp. I try to run two pieces of tape just in case one breaks. One in front of the other. The other thing you can do is put a small piece of servo tape under the battery to hold it in place and then tape them in.
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Old 08-01-2013, 12:27 PM   #1347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCformula1 View Post
Wow - that's a hot track. In Melbourne I've run up to about 55C track temp and I ran Ride R1 rears and PS fronts. The Ride R1's are a fantastic hot weather tyre but I only recently invested the time to make the front's turn in. Attached is the setup which had good rear grip and good steering.

The changes I made are listed in the notes field with the changes listed in the order of biggest impact to the smallest impact (which is the order I recommend you try the changes).

While this testing was done on a relatively cold 20C track I am hoping that they will still work as well on a hot track. The hotter track should give more grip for the R1's. If the front has more grip relative to the rear because of the track temp then you might not need to completely remove the spacer under the rear of the Pitch Damper but start by doing that and if you have too much steering try adding some spacers back.

PDF setup sheet issues - When I PDF'd the setup sheet it changed ticks in boxes to a "4" in the box. Also there is a number "3" on the right hand side of the chassis and a "1.5" on the left hand side. Ignore it - a bug in the setup sheet PDF.

Cheers
Where was the battery mounted in this setup? towards the rear? or towards the front? I had it towards the front, but with the steel axel shaft, if i leave it towards the front, and put the carbon shaft, how will that change the car's handling?
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:23 PM   #1348
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RCformula1?
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Old 08-05-2013, 07:07 PM   #1349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadman1981 View Post
RCformula1?
Have a look at David's car on this page: http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.p...-carpet-setups

I'm sure he'll confirm, but I don't think he changes the core battery/ESC layout from track to track...
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:14 AM   #1350
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Hey guys I have an issue with the rear inside tire lifting on corners. I have played with changing the tube lube from 10-20-30-50k with soft medium and hard side spring combinations and it did nothing to fix the problem. I am running on high grip carpet on pardus tires. Any ideas?
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