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Old 05-23-2013, 11:54 PM   #1246
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Originally Posted by pol59 View Post
addicted2blue, I already use the trick of sandpaper to the plates of diff, but I use the translator does not know properly interprętr the rest of your sentence. Would you have a picture that shows what you mean? here help me much because I'm also looking for a perfect diff.
for information, I am currently using the Associated white grease for the diff, I do not know what is that of Tamiya.
Are you using part number associated #6591? It's a clear grease.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:59 PM   #1247
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yes, I use it, the one for the diff in the Asso brand. but what interests me, and my translator does not know interpret, this is the second part of the answer

<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:54 AM   #1248
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Originally Posted by fastvee View Post
X1 is good upgrade. (I would get the chassis also, pro has carbon lower deck and x1 uses fiberglass witch has more grip on 104 v1).

-but just the x1 kit(top deck and dampner) will make it better. -and 1.3 or more flexible t-bar. (tamiya hi-traction t-bar is great but they do not last too long)

3racing 1.3mm is ok.

Converting to V2 alot more parts are needed. (new kit will most likely be cheaper)

I sold my F104pro and got v2 to replace it , maybe you could do the same?
Thanks for the reply. I noticed that there is a long x1 top deck and the shorter deck with the required dampner and side springs. Is that for stiffness tuning?
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:41 AM   #1249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pol59 View Post
yes, I use it, the one for the diff in the Asso brand. but what interests me, and my translator does not know interpret, this is the second part of the answer

<< Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff >>
The attached picture shows the standard build of the F104Pro diff assembly. There are two changes that improve it:
  • Substitute part BA17 (the 1150 bearing) for an equivalent sized thrust bearing (eg: Tamiya 53136)
  • Swap the position of the two BA20 thrust washers from this way () to this way )(

The changes make the diff much smoother.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya F104 Version 2-f104prodiff.jpg  
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:42 AM   #1250
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A bit of off topic here, but I hope any1 wont mind:

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Originally Posted by RonF View Post
Thanks for the reply. I noticed that there is a long x1 top deck and the shorter deck with the required dampner and side springs. Is that for stiffness tuning?
Shorter deck will allow the chassis to flex more and this helps on asphalt/low grip.(I used it on high grip carpet also and won that race so it works well indoors also). -And I only used the 1 post between top and lower deck on both sides(the rear post only).

I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .

Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.

3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.

Use soft t-bar like this

Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.

-Pate
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:31 AM   #1251
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PDR thank you, I see what you mean for washers BA20. instead of rolling BA17, I put out a thrust bearing lubricated Asso black grease, as in X-Ray touring cars before the differential gear?
it remains for me to find the right size, corresponding to BA17
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Old 05-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastvee View Post
A bit of off topic here, but I hope any1 wont mind:



Shorter deck will allow the chassis to flex more and this helps on asphalt/low grip.(I used it on high grip carpet also and won that race so it works well indoors also). -And I only used the 1 post between top and lower deck on both sides(the rear post only).

I dont understand "side springs" ,get this and this spring .

Use soft oil on the trf shock , like 25wt and a drop of diff oil(i use 5000wt) on the front springs/king pin.

3-5000wt oil in the side dampner is a good starting point.

Use soft t-bar like this

Pit shimzu 571/572 tires and the car should be good to go.

-Pate
Thanks, I guess I got confused with the side springs on V2 and thought the x1 had the side springs as well.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:12 AM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pol59 View Post
PDR thank you, I see what you mean for washers BA20. instead of rolling BA17, I put out a thrust bearing lubricated Asso black grease, as in X-Ray touring cars before the differential gear?
it remains for me to find the right size, corresponding to BA17
The thrust bearing you want to replace BA17 is Tamiya part number 53136.
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:16 AM   #1254
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How do you fix a tweat in this car. When I scale the car I have a more cross weight right front to left rear. This is a real problem when acelerating out of tight right hand corners the car continues to want to turn. If the car didn't do that it would be really competive but I'm having to be careful in the right hand corners. It is hard to race when you have to be that percise!

Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:25 PM   #1255
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Sybrand F104X1 with QTEQ medium T-bar (no side links installed) and RIDE R1 rubber tires. It worked very fine today on my low grip local track.

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Old 05-27-2013, 07:48 AM   #1256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
How do you fix a tweat in this car. When I scale the car I have a more cross weight right front to left rear. This is a real problem when acelerating out of tight right hand corners the car continues to want to turn. If the car didn't do that it would be really competive but I'm having to be careful in the right hand corners. It is hard to race when you have to be that percise!

Also what ride height are you running on this car when I raced 10th and
12th scale pancars we always wanted the chassis as low as possible.
3 things:
The front springs can collapse a bit, especially the sweeper side spring. You should check them on a regular basis.

You can also use a regular tweak bar like 1/12 guys use. The screws for the side springs are used to adjust tweak.

It also pays to check the "football" pivot in the center to make sure there is no binding, especially if you have had a crash.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:51 AM   #1257
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3 things:
The front springs can collapse a bit, especially the sweeper side spring. You should check them on a regular basis.

You can also use a regular tweak bar like 1/12 guys use. The screws for the side springs are used to adjust tweak.

It also pays to check the "football" pivot in the center to make sure there is no binding, especially if you have had a crash.
You were right it was the front spring on the sweeper side did suffer some collapse. The football is undamaged and I had a wreck and lost one of the side springs my LHS had to get them from Tamiya and they were back ordered so I found some coil sprigs that fit but they were unadjustable so yesterday I tweaked the top coil in, now I can adjust the side springs. Thanks for the help very useful information! +1 on that
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:20 AM   #1258
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Are there any black mesh type wheels for the F104? I swear that I saw some at one point, but now all I see are the gray ones. I know Tamiya makes the foam wheels, but I would like the ones that have the ribs.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:03 PM   #1259
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What insert do people used in pit tires?
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:37 PM   #1260
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Stock inserts
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