R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-13-2013, 09:20 PM   #1231
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidcisco View Post
I bought Tamiya's damper and placed it on my F1 car that I'm building. Does anyone out there know what I need to fix or how to straighten the rear. It needs to come up so that it levels out. Anyone out there have this same issue and could please tell me how to fix?
You'll need to put spacers on the inside or if there's room cut down the ball cup end.
E
__________________
<
AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2013, 11:00 PM   #1232
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: france
Posts: 35
Default

you can also try to reverse the aluminum piece that supports the shock front.
pol59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 06:44 AM   #1233
Tech Elite
 
Aaron P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kansas...unfortunately.
Posts: 3,340
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Looks like the mount has already been flipped to run the TRF damper.

I'd be interested to see how it sit's on the tires with battery and electronics in it. It may just be because it's sitting on a car stand that it is like that. If it's STILL like that at ride height, it looks like you just need to take some preload out of the spring to get the ride height you want.

If you don't want the shock to extend so far, to keep it more flat, then yes, some internal shock limiters should do the trick. This is fine if you're running carpet, but if you're running outdoors, you may want to leave it so that you have more suspension travel.

Last edited by Aaron P; 05-14-2013 at 10:17 AM.
Aaron P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2013, 02:30 PM   #1234
Tech Champion
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 7,400
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidcisco View Post
I bought Tamiya's damper and placed it on my F1 car that I'm building. Does anyone out there know what I need to fix or how to straighten the rear. It needs to come up so that it levels out. Anyone out there have this same issue and could please tell me how to fix?
5mm of internal shims on the shock shaft usually gets you close. Then adjust the shock end.
__________________
A mutually re-enforcing cascade of failure

"Failior [sic] crowns enterprise." Robert Goddard

I-Lap Scoring Systems http://www.rclapcounter.com/
robk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2013, 12:25 PM   #1235
Tech Elite
 
MikeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Oceanside, CA
Posts: 4,914
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Hi All, Some new 104 updates are in;

http://www.exotekracing.com/latest-products/

__________________
www.exotekracing.com ☆ASSOCIATED☆DURANGO☆HPI☆HB RACING☆KYOSHO☆LOSI/TLR☆SERPENT☆TAMIYA☆XRAY☆

A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
MikeR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2013, 02:06 PM   #1236
Tech Regular
 
Pro Models's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 356
Default

Any body interested in a good bargain my F104 Pro VII chassis is for sale
Pro Models is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 01:56 AM   #1237
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 36
Default Ride pre-mounted R1 tyres

Hey guys,

Trying to find some Ride pre-mounted R1 tyres for a F104 V2 (26022 & 26023). Can't seem to find any online to purchase - all out of stock!

New to F1 (& RC) so trying to glue my own might be interesting.

Anyone know of a hidden supply of them somewhere?
Gemec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 09:52 AM   #1238
Tech Master
 
edhchoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: vancouver, wa, usa
Posts: 1,509
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

I use thin CA for tires. It finds the gap and fills it by capillary action. Not that hard to do.
Or pay me for wheels, tires, and postage. I will glue them for you.
edhchoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #1239
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 144
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
It finds the gap and fills it by capillary action.
That's what she said.
viet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 07:57 AM   #1240
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 33
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Got one of the new chassis from Exotek on the way, I'll let you all know what I think after this weekend. Hopefully it increases rear traction and front end grip. I have always had a battle with this on the F104V2. I figured out the rear grip and got very close to what I wanted for front end grip. I am running on Carpet in Indianapolis at INDY R/C Raceway and Hobbies. I had to tighten / harden up the roll spring rates to get the grip I wanted. I am using CRC red springs for the roll and Tamiya Blacks up front. On the Aluminum damper tube it is 150K fluid and the TRF shock has 30 weight oil in it and an xray 2.2-2.6 progressive spring on it. Battery is mounted to the rear and there is 30 grams of weight mounted on the back of the motor pod. The car still pushes a bit and I am hoping that this will help with that. Oh yeah, I am using the TRS tires #1031 and 1032 respectively. Love the class and this chassis.
Aquaracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #1241
Tech Regular
 
M3Man03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 445
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

What's one of the better diffs you can put in the F104 - I started with the stock from a old F104 (all plastic) and went to a 3Racing Alum one but I can't ever get it right. I think the design of it is poor because of all the loading on the bearings which cause binding.

Also, is the F104v2.Pro the latest version? I can't seem to find which version came when.
__________________
Team Durango DESC210R / DEX210 / DETC410 / SJF01 / F104-F1R / Tamiya 416x / TE-Maxx 3.3 / OFNA DM-1e
M3Man03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 12:14 PM   #1242
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Antwerp, Belgium
Posts: 869
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M3Man03 View Post
What's one of the better diffs you can put in the F104 - I started with the stock from a old F104 (all plastic) and went to a 3Racing Alum one but I can't ever get it right. I think the design of it is poor because of all the loading on the bearings which cause binding.

Also, is the F104v2.Pro the latest version? I can't seem to find which version came when.
Just sand down the diff plates by using some 1000 and 1200 sand paper and use some 3mm ceramic diff balls and a one-piece thrust bearing instead of the regular 1150 ball bearing that's located in the diff outdrive. This will make your diff very smooth
All this is used with a alu F104 diff
addicted2blue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #1243
Tech Adept
 
RonF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 214
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default Convert 104pro to V2?

Is is possible to convert a regulars F104pro to a V2? or should I just go with a X1 setup to upgrade? Mostly asphalt/outdoors running.
__________________
VBR,
Ron
F104pro, Turnigy Turbo 80amp, 21.5 trackstar, LRP esc and Rs 540
RC10 original, RC10 graphite, RC10 4wd MIP SP1 version, RC10T
RonF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 05:48 PM   #1244
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 78
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post
Is is possible to convert a regulars F104pro to a V2? or should I just go with a X1 setup to upgrade? Mostly asphalt/outdoors running.

X1 is good upgrade. (I would get the chassis also, pro has carbon lower deck and x1 uses fiberglass witch has more grip on 104 v1).

-but just the x1 kit(top deck and dampner) will make it better. -and 1.3 or more flexible t-bar. (tamiya hi-traction t-bar is great but they do not last too long)

3racing 1.3mm is ok.

Converting to V2 alot more parts are needed. (new kit will most likely be cheaper)

I sold my F104pro and got v2 to replace it , maybe you could do the same?
fastvee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #1245
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: france
Posts: 35
Default

addicted2blue, I already use the trick of sandpaper to the plates of diff, but I use the translator does not know properly interprętr the rest of your sentence. Would you have a picture that shows what you mean? here help me much because I'm also looking for a perfect diff.
for information, I am currently using the Associated white grease for the diff, I do not know what is that of Tamiya.
pol59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya F104 Pro! NT Electric On-Road 9319 05-03-2016 07:22 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:40 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0