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Old 03-02-2013, 11:20 AM   #1036
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Hi,
I have just started racing this chassis on asphalt with rubber tyres and im chasing a little bit more steering any ideas?
Try to have more toe-out at front, this will give more insteer respons.
Hope this helps.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:15 PM   #1037
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What is the best way to measure for caster on these cars and also how much are people running? I have the exotek front end kit. Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:46 PM   #1038
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On the diff which way is the spur gear suppose to go on? I put it so the flange is on the right side of the car so you have to put the first bearing on then spur gear and then the next large bearing but the spur gear wiggles a little bit on the diff once it is put together, but I do get diff action. I thought I put it together backwards so I flipped the spur gear and now there is no wiggling occurring but now there is no diff action.

What am I missing?
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:41 AM   #1039
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On the diff which way is the spur gear suppose to go on? I put it so the flange is on the right side of the car so you have to put the first bearing on then spur gear and then the next large bearing but the spur gear wiggles a little bit on the diff once it is put together, but I do get diff action. I thought I put it together backwards so I flipped the spur gear and now there is no wiggling occurring but now there is no diff action.

What am I missing?
Just about all ball diffs have some side to side wiggle regardless of brand.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:43 AM   #1040
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What is the best way to measure for caster on these cars and also how much are people running? I have the exotek front end kit. Thanks!
You can use a Touring Car set up station like Hudy's or Integy's to measure your caster, camber, toe and steering throw.

Or you can use a protractor and eyeball it.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #1041
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On the diff which way is the spur gear suppose to go on? I put it so the flange is on the right side of the car so you have to put the first bearing on then spur gear and then the next large bearing but the spur gear wiggles a little bit on the diff once it is put together, but I do get diff action. I thought I put it together backwards so I flipped the spur gear and now there is no wiggling occurring but now there is no diff action.

What am I missing?
You had it on correctly. The diff balls are wider than the diff gear so that only they make contact with the diff rings. Because of this the diff gear floats on the diff balls and will have some wobble. If it did not then the diff rings would contact the diff gear and you would have no diff action at all. You would just be clamping the diff gear in place with the rings.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:03 PM   #1042
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On the diff which way is the spur gear suppose to go on? I put it so the flange is on the right side of the car so you have to put the first bearing on then spur gear and then the next large bearing but the spur gear wiggles a little bit on the diff once it is put together, but I do get diff action.
For the diff to work the diameter of the balls has to be bigger than the thickness of the spur gear, if not the diff washers would ride against the sides of the spur gear and you would get no diff action. The side to side wobble is perfectly normal and does not affect the gear mesh.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:04 PM   #1043
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For the diff to work the diameter of the balls has to be bigger than the thickness of the spur gear, if not the diff washers would ride against the sides of the spur gear and you would get no diff action. The side to side wobble is perfectly normal and does not affect the gear mesh.
Sounds good! Thanks so much. I was getting really nervous about it.

One question though is that today when I finally got the car going and pretty dialed in from a handling stand point. I couldn't help but feel like I was scrubbing major speed from the diff slipping. About how much a turn back from all the way tight should it be. I was trying to adjust the tightness by holding the spur and right tire and then turning the left tire to see how much it would slip. I got it to a point where it barely slipped. But by the end of the race day it felt like there was no silicon grease in the ball diff. Is that normal? Should the diff be tighter?
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:06 AM   #1044
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Sounds good! Thanks so much. I was getting really nervous about it.

One question though is that today when I finally got the car going and pretty dialed in from a handling stand point. I couldn't help but feel like I was scrubbing major speed from the diff slipping. About how much a turn back from all the way tight should it be. I was trying to adjust the tightness by holding the spur and right tire and then turning the left tire to see how much it would slip. I got it to a point where it barely slipped. But by the end of the race day it felt like there was no silicon grease in the ball diff. Is that normal? Should the diff be tighter?
Best way to check if the diff is slipping is to hold both rear tyres and then try to turn the spur gear. If it moves then you are likely to get slip...if it doesn't then you won't.

My advice is to start with it loose then tighten up a bit at a time and stop when it is just tight.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:13 AM   #1045
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Sounds good! Thanks so much. I was getting really nervous about it.

One question though is that today when I finally got the car going and pretty dialed in from a handling stand point. I couldn't help but feel like I was scrubbing major speed from the diff slipping. About how much a turn back from all the way tight should it be. I was trying to adjust the tightness by holding the spur and right tire and then turning the left tire to see how much it would slip. I got it to a point where it barely slipped. But by the end of the race day it felt like there was no silicon grease in the ball diff. Is that normal? Should the diff be tighter?
Holding the spur and right wheel and turning the left will put the wrong loads into the diff when adjusting it. As Mark says, hold one wheel in each hand and try and push the spur gear with your thumb. Start with the diff loose and gradually tighten it until you can't turn the spur gear. You need very little grease in the diff, just enough to coat the balls and no more. Also make sure you have the spring washers the right way round, if they aren't fitted as shown in the manual you will never get a smooth diff action.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:48 AM   #1046
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I'm having problems snapping side links. Granted I just started and am a horrible driver but it's always the left one and in the exact same spot (right at the front ball). I'm even using the thicker Associated ones. Is this purely driver error or might I have something installed incorrectly? I probably break 3-4 a day.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:03 AM   #1047
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I'm having problems snapping side links. Granted I just started and am a horrible driver but it's always the left one and in the exact same spot (right at the front ball). I'm even using the thicker Associated ones. Is this purely driver error or might I have something installed incorrectly? I probably break 3-4 a day.
3-4 a day is a bit excessive. But I recommend replacing the standard screw you use in the side links from a M2x5 to a M2x8 I havent broken a link since changing to the longer screw even with the "weaker" tamiya links.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:56 PM   #1048
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Anyone have any problems running the TRF damper on the V2? Seems my end cap keeps hitting the bottom mount plate (I moved the bracket to the 'TRF' hole but no luck. Recommendations for a longer damper end?

Thanks
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:33 PM   #1049
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Another question if I may.

Recommendations for red tail lights - prewired and you can plug into aux of esc?

Thanks
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:50 PM   #1050
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Anyone have any problems running the TRF damper on the V2? Seems my end cap keeps hitting the bottom mount plate (I moved the bracket to the 'TRF' hole but no luck. Recommendations for a longer damper end?

Thanks
A longer rod end is included with the kit. It's on the same parts tree as the friction shocks.
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