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Old 01-07-2013, 12:36 PM   #796
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I have novak edge on all my f1.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:21 PM   #797
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Great, 2 weeks after I buy an f104 v2, Tamiya announces this- 93033 F104V2 Pro D Titanium Edition with Body!!

I wonder what all will be different on this version.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:45 PM   #798
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Glad I haven't gotten around to buying one yet
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:33 PM   #799
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It will be a few months before you can buy them. So enjoy your new car! If it is worthy I will add it to my stable.
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:25 PM   #800
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Great, 2 weeks after I buy an f104 v2, Tamiya announces this- 93033 F104V2 Pro D Titanium Edition with Body!!

I wonder what all will be different on this version.
You're ok...I would bet it's not a new design, just a nicer package. It shouldn't matter to you at all.
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:35 PM   #801
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What esc are most people using? I think its my esc thats too hard on the wot curve and cant put the power down. Brakes are on or off its hideous. This is a kyosho perfex esc that nothing cant be adjusted. .
I use the Tekin RS but there are many good ESC's out there that will allow throttle and brake adjustments. Before you buy suggest you download the manual of the ESC you are considering to make sure it does what you want.

In the meantime if your radio has adjustable settings then try playing with these:

Brake End Point Adjustment (EPA) - turn it down. I use 80% for 21.5 brushless or 40% for silver can brushed motors. Ie; when you grab full brake the radio will only send the command for 40% brake to the car. Play with this % until it feels good. Note: at low speed the brakes will barely work, but at racing speed the difference will be more controllable braking without losing the rear end.

ABS - if your radio has anti-lock brakes then turn them on. Different radios implement this in various ways but many will send: brake on, brake on, brake off, brake on, brake on, brake off [repeat] which helps a little.

Throttle Exponential (or Expo) - turn it down. If you change it to say minus 50% then when you grab full throttle the radio will send a more gradual acceleration curve. It will still accelerate quickly, just not as quickly as normal. This will make the car easier to drive out of corners and less likely to lose the back end when accelerating. Note: if you have a Spektrum radio I understand it is opposite and you need to set plus 50% for the same effect. Play with the % until comfortable.

When driving a 4WD touring car grabbing handfuls of throttle and brake might not get us into trouble. F1 needs a gentler touch and is all about throttle control. Gradually squeezing on the throttle and dabbing the brake. The above radio settings can assist though and allow you to drive more like a touring car with heavy trigger application without ending up in the wall. Hope that helps
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:03 PM   #802
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How much drag brake do you set at?
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:10 PM   #803
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How much drag brake do you set at?
None. As a broad generalisation: For most corners you want to roll round them braking as little as possible. If you limit braking to hairpins and other difficult corners you're half way there. Of course when racing there will be times you want to out-brake other cars but that's where a trained trigger finger is crucial

For more tips on making F1 cars easy to drive check out our setup tips.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:23 PM   #804
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I use the Tekin RS but there are many good ESC's out there that will allow throttle and brake adjustments. Before you buy suggest you download the manual of the ESC you are considering to make sure it does what you want.

In the meantime if your radio has adjustable settings then try playing with these:

Brake End Point Adjustment (EPA) - turn it down. I use 80% for 21.5 brushless or 40% for silver can brushed motors. Ie; when you grab full brake the radio will only send the command for 40% brake to the car. Play with this % until it feels good. Note: at low speed the brakes will barely work, but at racing speed the difference will be more controllable braking without losing the rear end.

ABS - if your radio has anti-lock brakes then turn them on. Different radios implement this in various ways but many will send: brake on, brake on, brake off, brake on, brake on, brake off [repeat] which helps a little.

Throttle Exponential (or Expo) - turn it down. If you change it to say minus 50% then when you grab full throttle the radio will send a more gradual acceleration curve. It will still accelerate quickly, just not as quickly as normal. This will make the car easier to drive out of corners and less likely to lose the back end when accelerating. Note: if you have a Spektrum radio I understand it is opposite and you need to set plus 50% for the same effect. Play with the % until comfortable.

When driving a 4WD touring car grabbing handfuls of throttle and brake might not get us into trouble. F1 needs a gentler touch and is all about throttle control. Gradually squeezing on the throttle and dabbing the brake. The above radio settings can assist though and allow you to drive more like a touring car with heavy trigger application without ending up in the wall. Hope that helps

Thanks bud, have done that. Its the esc im sure as its not ideal for this especially since its not adjustable, but couldnt afford one at the time.

3 weeks ago when I was practicing with a 120amp and a 17.5 it was wayyy more nimble to drive. That had 20% drag brake, 100% punch control, 100% expo on epa and -100% steering.

Now with this esc im at..

70% epa out of 150 spectrum.
13% epa on brakes out of 150.
100% expo on throttle with no punch on remote.

I dont why but I think its retarded fast for silver can with this esc, put a lrp quantum and its smooth and noticeable slower. Can the esc have some to do since it was used to turn a 4.5lbs 20 turn sct rtr truck?
Been reading the set ups sheets so im trying to take the effect of once I get on power the car "torque steers"?
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:27 PM   #805
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Glad I haven't gotten around to buying one yet
You should be happy! It means the cost of the pro II base kit will be cheaper!
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:54 PM   #806
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
I dont why but I think its retarded fast for silver can with this esc, put a lrp quantum and its smooth and noticeable slower. Can the esc have some to do since it was used to turn a 4.5lbs 20 turn sct rtr truck?
Been reading the set ups sheets so im trying to take the effect of once I get on power the car "torque steers"?
You mentioned in your original post that you're using a Kyosho Perfex ESC. Is that right?

And are you using a 17.5 with it? With 70% throttle EPA on the radio?

And presumably the ESC has no boost or turbo settings?

And the problem you have is torque steer?

Assuming I've got the situation correct above then:

1. Does the car go left or right when you pull the trigger?

2. Do the wheels spin?

3. Do you have the stock plastic motor mount or the alloy hop up?

4. Are you using the stock v2 steel axle or a carbon one?

5. When you hold the car in the air (or on a car stand) and hold the spur gear and turn one rear wheel does the opposite rear wheel go in the other direction? (it should)

6. If you hold the spur gear and one rear wheel tight and try to turn the other rear wheel by hand does it turn at all? (it shouldn't)

7. Does it only pull to one side when you accelerate hard off from a standing start or does it happen even if you're already moving at speed?

8. Have any of the tyres come un-glued?
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:35 PM   #807
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So there is brake end point adjustment on esc and on the transmitter.
Do you set 80% on just esc and 100% on radio?
Having 100% on esc and 80% on radio should have the same effect, right?
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:59 PM   #808
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Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
So there is brake end point adjustment on esc and on the transmitter.
Do you set 80% on just esc and 100% on radio?
Having 100% on esc and 80% on radio should have the same effect, right?
It absolutely should be the same and usually will be.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:47 AM   #809
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Originally Posted by RCformula1 View Post
You mentioned in your original post that you're using a Kyosho Perfex ESC. Is that right?

At the moment yes


And are you using a 17.5 with it? With 70% throttle EPA on the radio?

No that esc is only for brush motors. Using a silver can


And presumably the ESC has no boost or turbo settings?

Dont have none, cant program none not even calibrate

And the problem you have is torque steer?

Yes

Assuming I've got the situation correct above then:

1. Does the car go left or right when you pull the trigger?

Either way at times

2. Do the wheels spin?

A little not much

3. Do you have the stock plastic motor mount or the alloy hop up?

tamiya allow one


4. Are you using the stock v2 steel axle or a carbon one?

Tamiya carbon shaft



5. When you hold the car in the air (or on a car stand) and hold the spur gear and turn one rear wheel does the opposite rear wheel go in the other direction? (it should)

Yes its turning the opposite

6. If you hold the spur gear and one rear wheel tight and try to turn the other rear wheel by hand does it turn at all? (it shouldn't)

Not its locked wont turn

7. Does it only pull to one side when you accelerate hard off from a standing start or does it happen even if you're already moving at speed?

Both. Sometime if it starts to go sideways a tad off the line I let off let it settle then go again then it wants to steer left or right.

8. Have any of the tyres come un-glued?

No they are not unglued. Using the pits and r1 soft in rear
Thanks man. I should mention i have this installed as well. Im borrowing a novak havoc esc and see how that does.
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4763



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Old 01-08-2013, 09:46 AM   #810
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Thanks man. I should mention i have this installed as well.
Thanks for taking the time to answer all the questions. It's always a challenge to remotely diagnose these sort of problems.

You should not be getting issues when accelerating using a silver can. It just doesn't have the power.

Edit: Just re-read your post and I mis-read the tyres you are using so have changed my initial response

We have seen problems mixing Ride on the rear and Pit Shimitzu on the front. The only Ride tyres we have tested which work with PS fronts are the Ride R1's which are very good with PS 571 soft fronts. You say you're running Ride R1's on the rear? Which Pit Shimitzu tyres are you running on the front?

The other thing to check is that the grub screws holding the carbon axle are holding the axle firmly and not slipping. We stopped using carbon axles for this reason. We use the stock steel axle. However, it doesn't sound like this is the issue.

The starting point in any setup is the right tyres.

Check out our Tyre guide.

What is the track temp?

Does handling change after you've done some warm up laps? What's the approximate air temp?

Are you running on carpet or asphalt?

Are you using any traction compound? If so, how are you applying it?

What tyres are the fast guys at your track running?

Edit: The RSector High Traction System shouldn't be causing any issues, in fact the extra weight should assist with smooth acceleration. You can see our review of it here.

Do you have any issues with tracking in a straight line when you are not accelerating or braking? Is anything bent at the front (eg; plastic arms or sometimes the plastic pieces under the alloy camber piece can shift so that when looking at the front of the car one side of the front is higher than the other)

Compress the front suspension one side at a time. Do the king pins move up and down freely and return to their starting position by themselves?

Are you running toe in on the front? (recommend toe out instead)

If you accelerate gently and steadily does the issue still occur? It should take approximately 1 second to reach full throttle.

Does the ESC have a throttle profile setting? If so choose the middle one. Aggressive throttle profiles with silver cans don't help these sort of problems but shouldn't be causing it on it's own.
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Last edited by RCformula1; 01-08-2013 at 10:11 AM.
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