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Old 12-08-2012, 03:26 PM   #676
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hi redbull

i notice in your post above (the one with the photo of the 104)the angle of the steering rods with the servo layed down on its back,with fitting the servo this way & being able to adjust it back & forth (before final mounting position) you can change the angle of the steering rods,is there any advantages to having them angled like yours as opposed to having them straight (which means the servo sits back a little further than yours) just curious as i have just purchaced a new 104 v2,as this is my first foray into f1 i have limited knowedge of them so i may be asking a few questions

thanks prof
Changing the Ackerman position will adjust how much bumpsteer you may get under load. If the angle is great, usually gives you positive bumpsteer making the car easier to drive. Straight setup is more aggressive and harder to drive.

If this is your 1st F1... Go with the manual kit setup. Can't go wrong with that.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:59 PM   #677
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Originally Posted by Professor View Post
hi redbull

i notice in your post above (the one with the photo of the 104)the angle of the steering rods with the servo layed down on its back,with fitting the servo this way & being able to adjust it back & forth (before final mounting position) you can change the angle of the steering rods,is there any advantages to having them angled like yours as opposed to having them straight (which means the servo sits back a little further than yours) just curious as i have just purchaced a new 104 v2,as this is my first foray into f1 i have limited knowedge of them so i may be asking a few questions

thanks prof
Here is an article written for the VII by Tamiya
There is a video follow-up coming soon as well
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=613
This is the same link as in my sig, F-104VII Info

Having the steering rods angled like that is all about ackerman, tire slip angles, and stuff
Hard to science out exactly how it all works for each track, tire, driver etc
For myself, and most who run Tamiya F1 cars, this setup is a very good all around ackerman setting

The kit setup with standard servo position has a lot of bump steer, my car does not have any noticeable bump steer, and I like it this way much better
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:47 AM   #678
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thanks for the reply's & info chris & redbull

ihave looked at the link in your sig briefly but now i will go back & look at it again to gain more from it

prof
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:17 PM   #679
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Does anyone run a Speed Passion Reventon Pro in their v2? If so, what motor are you running with it? Any feedback appreciated!
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Old 12-09-2012, 06:32 PM   #680
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I ran the Viper VST 21.5 at IIC -- but I do run the VST motors in everything
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:00 PM   #681
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Is it absolutely necessary to drill out the shock cap when using the kit damper? And if so, what size bit?
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:05 PM   #682
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Is it absolutely necessary to drill out the shock cap when using the kit damper? And if so, what size bit?
It is to let the air escape allowing the shock shaft to move freely. I used a .8mm bit.
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:19 PM   #683
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Hi,

This is my final purchase list for Christmas. Please let me know if I forgot something.

F104 Rear R1-Hard (1 pair) with inserts
Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital High Speed Metal Gear Servo .09/125.0 SAVSC1251MG
Lotus Renault E20 Decal Sheet
F104 Front F3-Medium (1 pair) with inserts
Rigid Rear System RRS for F104V2/RM-01
Adjustable Metal Upright - F103 F104 RM01
Aluminum Servo Mount Set (2 pcs) (BK) for Tamiya F104 Pro / F104 V2
Roll Spring Set - RM01
Body Set Vodafone McLaren - Mercedes MP4-24
1/10 F104 Version II Chassis Kit


Actually I've ESC/Motor combo and need to know the proper battery (fitting, weight and capacity)

Thanks
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:20 PM   #684
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It is to let the air escape allowing the shock shaft to move freely. I used a .8mm bit.
Ok, thanks. You'll forgive me for asking, but do you drill all the way through? The instructions are not too clear as whether you do or not.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:29 PM   #685
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I've got a low profile digital metal gear servo .11 / 80oz at 6v. Will that be a decent one to start with or should I be looking at a different servo with more torque?

I'm going to be picking up the f104 v2 kit tomorrow and just starting to look at the various components to complete it.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:03 PM   #686
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That is plenty for a F1
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Old 12-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #687
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What is a good diameter for foam tires, front and rear
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Old 12-14-2012, 12:49 AM   #688
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Ok, thanks. You'll forgive me for asking, but do you drill all the way through? The instructions are not too clear as whether you do or not.
You just drill half way thru. You will reach a hollow spot where the shock shaft travels.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:20 AM   #689
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Originally Posted by MiTaller-RC View Post
Hi,

This is my final purchase list for Christmas. Please let me know if I forgot something.

F104 Rear R1-Hard (1 pair) with inserts
Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital High Speed Metal Gear Servo .09/125.0 SAVSC1251MG
Lotus Renault E20 Decal Sheet
F104 Front F3-Medium (1 pair) with inserts
Rigid Rear System RRS for F104V2/RM-01
Adjustable Metal Upright - F103 F104 RM01
Aluminum Servo Mount Set (2 pcs) (BK) for Tamiya F104 Pro / F104 V2
Roll Spring Set - RM01
Body Set Vodafone McLaren - Mercedes MP4-24
1/10 F104 Version II Chassis Kit


Actually I've ESC/Motor combo and need to know the proper battery (fitting, weight and capacity)

Thanks
Get shorty lipo and maybe F3-soft fronts
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Old 12-15-2012, 05:52 PM   #690
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Default front spring compresses then sticks...

I read somewhere on the "interweb" that there was a trick or fix to minimize the front spring compressing in the lower ball and sticking there.

Chassis doesn't do well when that happens.

Anyone experience this, or know what I mean?
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