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Old 09-30-2012, 11:05 PM   #496
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Thanks for the info guys. I need to try and figure out how to get one to the hotel at IIC, not real confident that on site hobby shop will be stocking F1 hop up parts.
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Old 09-30-2012, 11:21 PM   #497
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Thanks for the info guys. I need to try and figure out how to get one to the hotel at IIC, not real confident that on site hobby shop will be stocking F1 hop up parts.
Call Sean at TQRC
He ships next day

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/parts.asp
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:03 AM   #498
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For anyone using Precision Racing System spurs, what size balls do I need?

Also, I don't know if this is right or not, but on corner exit I'm hearing the diff unload one tire (hear the motor rev up and back down). I've been setting the diffs pretty tight but still can't seem to get rid of this issue completely. I know I can't have total lockup but I feel it's costing me time out of the corners.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:17 PM   #499
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auto,

I had a similar instance with my diff. first make sure the conical washers are in the correct direction.
Then I found for me, I did not like the use of the ball bearing inside of the diff. I preferred to use the F103/F104 sandwich bearing
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #500
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So that sandwich bearing replaces the conical washers, or the smaller bearing behind it?

My diff will be great for the first race, then after that it gets really loose even though the diff nut hasn't changed.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:59 PM   #501
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you still use the conical washers and all the original pieces. you just swap out the different style bearings.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #502
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What is this?
RC Active Steering Assist Unit - TGU-01

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54417

please tell me it is not a gyro
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:04 PM   #503
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
What is this?
RC Active Steering Assist Unit - TGU-01

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54417

please tell me it is not a gyro
I fear it maybe a gyro.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:10 PM   #504
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So that sandwich bearing replaces the conical washers, or the smaller bearing behind it?
It looks like a lot of people use this one piece bearing instead of ball bearing in F104 diff. Don't forget to put the washers like this )( ...different from the stock position with ball bearing.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:41 PM   #505
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Anyone here have experience with the 190mm track setup?
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:22 PM   #506
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Originally Posted by Markus View Post
you still use the conical washers and all the original pieces. you just swap out the different style bearings.
WOW- that makes sense. Either I didn't read the instructions right or they dont explain that because I was having serious issues trying the thurst washer the other night. It was actually slipping like a slipper clutch. But it makes sense I didn't put the washers back in.

Special thanks to Sean at TQRC for helping to get me the parts I needed for IIC. First on road race in 11 years!!! this is going to be fun!
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Last edited by nikos2002; 10-02-2012 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:03 AM   #507
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Anyone here have experience with the 190mm track setup?
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:43 AM   #508
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auto,

I had a similar instance with my diff. first make sure the conical washers are in the correct direction.
Then I found for me, I did not like the use of the ball bearing inside of the diff. I preferred to use the F103/F104 sandwich bearing
Amongst all the F104 variants with the "pro-style" diffs (i.e. the ones where the thrust bearing is located in the hub and NOT in the right-hand wheel), I have found that the standard setup of using a cartridge bearing to not be as smooth as using the thrust bearing pictured above. The main reason ball diffs feel "crunchy" is in the thrust bearing--and having a "vertical" cartridge bearing like in the "pro-style" diffs handle a lateral load makes the balls ride on a smaller surface area as compared to the properly designed thrust bearing above.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:49 AM   #509
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Hey guys, just got my v2 pro kit...any recommendations on necessary parts to replace during the build? I notice a lot of people buying the motor mount, is that all I really need or are there any other must have parts? And does it matter which body I run? I'm new to F1 but not the hobby and I'm super excited to get this car running!
Have a look at the tamiya article by Fred Medel , which explains what hop ups are avialabe for the v2 kit:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=613

Personally I replaced as many of the plastic parts as possible with the carbon or aluminum options, for a stiffer and stronger chassis overall.

One thing the tamiya article missed was that you need the 5x8mm ball connectors if you want to run a low profile servo in horizontal position to eleminate bump steer.

I've started to put together a list of all the hop ups I've used so far, including the various wheel and rubber tire options I've tried: http://deckjockey.com/f1/

As for bodies, the tamiya ferarri F60 and mclaren Mp4-24 bodies that fit the F104 seem to be the most popular.

And you can buy third party decals, eg. Red bull decals by f1paintlabs that fit well onto the f60 body if you want to be unique.

Tq racing seems to have the best range of parts for the v2 including the f1paintlab decals : http://www.tqrcracing.com/

Finally, the president of our club has put together an f1 website with some setup tips, which is a good read : http://www.rcformula1.com.au

Hope that helps
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:22 AM   #510
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Anyone here have experience with the 190mm track setup?
When you widen the car you will need to dial steering back into the car. The same setup that steers in a narrow format will push at 190
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