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Old 09-11-2012, 11:16 AM   #421
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So is pit shimitzu making the tamiya 1031 /1032s?
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:55 AM   #422
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Here's how my II is setup
RedBull, I want to use the same ESC setup. Is the batery hold in place only by the fiberglass tape or do You "secure" it with double side tape? Is it save in case of crash? And please don't tell me You never crash, our winter indoor tracks are tight and always could something happen. So I'm worried about reciever or ESC condition
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:07 AM   #423
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Well the receiver is between the batt and the servo so I'd be more worried about it being receiver safe
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:48 AM   #424
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A lot of the sedan guys in my area use a double sided tape under their batteries which I think is meant for carpeting. It's not there to keep the battery in the car, just to prevent it from sliding around - they also use strapping tape to secure it. Just a couple small strips keep everything in place.

The tape has a woven pattern, and is thin, but retains a bit of stickiness even after it has been used.

If I can find it on the web I'll post it up.
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:40 AM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
...I'd be more worried about it being receiver safe
That's true but You can always get a hit from the rear or slide and crash backwards...

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A lot of the sedan guys in my area use a double sided tape under their batteries which I think is meant for carpeting. It's not there to keep the battery in the car, just to prevent it from sliding around - they also use strapping tape to secure it.
I prefer non-flat batteries which are "sitting" in lower deck holes and in this case the fiberglass tape is enough (for my slow stock TC), but this V2 inline setup is new for me... inline setup looks very clean (from my point of wiev), ESC should fit better as the sides are different from my previous car (viz. picture) and I'm just not sure about safety in rough racing conditions
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:32 AM   #426
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RedBull, I want to use the same ESC setup. Is the batery hold in place only by the fiberglass tape or do You "secure" it with double side tape? Is it save in case of crash? And please don't tell me You never crash, our winter indoor tracks are tight and always could something happen. So I'm worried about reciever or ESC condition
The battery hold down brace plus tape do the job of keeping that lipo very snug & secure
I also use a small piece of foam strip from the kit on the back of the lipo, so it doesn't come in hard contact with the solder post on the Tekin RS
There are a few mms of gap to the receiver, so the chassis is not bound up
That car gets in it's fair share of "incidents" racing weekly, and in the UF1 series
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:49 AM   #427
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OK, thank You for tips!
I know that your car is not a shelf queen but Your races look quite gentle to cars (on the video). Especially indoors we usually do have a couple of rookies and less experienced drivers in field so the crashes can be very hard or ehmmm spectacular ...but it will be probably the same worldwide.
I'm not sure if my reciever fits in front of the battery so maybe will end up in a different place but ESC and battery I want to place this way...
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:51 PM   #428
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guys, aside from the standard TRF and the friction damper, what are you guys using for the side damper? Have an issue with teh TRF damper, once the plastic shock cap pops off due to a roll, it'll keep on popping off because the threads are gone. Also, it's very easy to cross thread the cap when building because the threads are so fine.

Is there an aluminium shock cap that will fit on it? I'd rather have the ball end come off than the cap any day
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Old 09-16-2012, 02:55 AM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeygar View Post
guys, aside from the standard TRF and the friction damper, what are you guys using for the side damper? Have an issue with teh TRF damper, once the plastic shock cap pops off due to a roll, it'll keep on popping off because the threads are gone. Also, it's very easy to cross thread the cap when building because the threads are so fine.

Is there an aluminium shock cap that will fit on it? I'd rather have the ball end come off than the cap any day
Wow..havent had that happen...the spare parts tree comes with a couple of the side damper plastic tops and just be very careful when threading it on as yes they do cross thread easily..and it shouldnt come out...i dont know of an aluminium one.
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Old 09-16-2012, 03:55 AM   #430
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Tamiya is going to release another roll damper, but don't know what will be different between the RM-01 roll damper and the new one.

54413  F104 Aluminum High-Efficiency Roll Damper
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Old 09-16-2012, 05:18 AM   #431
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Tamiya is going to release another roll damper, but don't know what will be different between the RM-01 roll damper and the new one.

54413  F104 Aluminum High-Efficiency Roll Damper
"The Friction Roll Damper found on the F104X1 Chassis (Item 84203) and F104W GP Edition (Item 84262) is available separately as a Hop-Up or spare-part for any Tamiya car that uses a friction roll damper or oil filled damper unit.

The damper adjustment is achieved by applying different viscosities of grease into the slotted low friction inner tube. Compared to using an oil filled damper unit, the friction roll damper can provide consistent roll characteristics due to its simple design and it has fewer parts to maintain.

Racers Tip: For both the RM-01 and F104V.2 you will have an easier time adjusting roll on outdoor tracks using this Hop-Up Option part. By simply applying different greases you will have the ability to quickly make adjustments. The oil filled roll damper is basically an oil-filled shock; it requires you to build it with no air bubbles to get the desired setting which can prove difficult for some builders. The use of a friction roll damper will allow you to make better use of your time on the track. "

Sounds like the X1 side damper....oh yeah
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Old 09-16-2012, 07:16 AM   #432
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Quote:
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Wow..havent had that happen...the spare parts tree comes with a couple of the side damper plastic tops and just be very careful when threading it on as yes they do cross thread easily..and it shouldnt come out...i dont know of an aluminium one.
it happened when my car cartwheeled on its corners. Ruined 2 perfectly good shock caps by doing that car is great and fast, but a bad roll will pop the football and the shock cap

and no spare parts for the V2 in my country
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:30 AM   #433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
"The Friction Roll Damper found on the F104X1 Chassis (Item 84203) and F104W GP Edition (Item 84262) is available separately as a Hop-Up or spare-part for any Tamiya car that uses a friction roll damper or oil filled damper unit.

The damper adjustment is achieved by applying different viscosities of grease into the slotted low friction inner tube. Compared to using an oil filled damper unit, the friction roll damper can provide consistent roll characteristics due to its simple design and it has fewer parts to maintain.

Racers Tip: For both the RM-01 and F104V.2 you will have an easier time adjusting roll on outdoor tracks using this Hop-Up Option part. By simply applying different greases you will have the ability to quickly make adjustments. The oil filled roll damper is basically an oil-filled shock; it requires you to build it with no air bubbles to get the desired setting which can prove difficult for some builders. The use of a friction roll damper will allow you to make better use of your time on the track. "

Sounds like the X1 side damper....oh yeah

Friction dampers should be much more durable, then the oil filled units
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Old 09-16-2012, 09:10 AM   #434
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Quote:
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Friction dampers should be much more durable, then the oil filled units
But are friction damper more consistant then oil filled roll dampers?
personally i have better feeling with the oil filled ones over the friction ones.
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Old 09-16-2012, 12:22 PM   #435
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But are friction damper more consistant then oil filled roll dampers?
personally i have better feeling with the oil filled ones over the friction ones.
They should work fine
I have no issues with it on the RM or VII

The new alu fd (54413) should be even better

Perhaps I'm missing some finite tuning with it though ?
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