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Old 07-22-2012, 08:28 AM   #226
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Just finished a club race. Of the 3 F104 v2 drivers, one was absent, the other fast driver switched back to his WGP because the link suspension was to fragile resulting in a lot of DNF. The third driver also had broken suspension issues.

Verdict so far on our track is that the tune ability is good but it is also easy to get out of tune and fragile.

Will see how they fare in the next race.
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:07 PM   #227
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Took out the PRO 2 yesterday and it was fun. The setup sheet for Tamiya is a good starting point but def too low for parking lot racing lol. I may be jynxing myself but I thought the car is pretty solid. I was bouncing off of plow discs rolling down the strait etc. I chipped my front wing and that was the most of it. Cant wait to run again.

Oh and Thanks Robk Yeah I was overthinking the rear height linkage lol.



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Old 07-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #228
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What are some of the ways to get rid of front end chatter? And are the majority of fast guys running shorty or full size packs?
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:45 PM   #229
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Short packs. All elecs inline. As far as the chatter ive heard you can use a light diff oil on the front kingpin for "damping" action to aid.
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Old 07-23-2012, 12:03 AM   #230
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Anybody thrown a 103 front end on their v2 yet?
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:43 AM   #231
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Shorty pack. I use a little Tamiya AW grease on the pins.

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What are some of the ways to get rid of front end chatter? And are the majority of fast guys running shorty or full size packs?
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:18 AM   #232
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Just switched to a shorty pack. I love it. I'm selling my full size packs.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #233
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I have the same issue with the side springs poping off... so i glued them the last run after i lost the left side black sping and one gold spring... i had 2 sets of gold springs or i woulda been out this weekend.... since then, one of the local racers told me that he is using the CRC alum holders and springs.. they are on A main hobbies. He is using them and they have not came off yet. I need to find a way to get more steering. I am using 1000 wt in my side damper, 50 in the center, with hard rear springs and med front springs.. and i cant get my rear end to break loose unless i slam on the breaks and turn the wheel.... This week i am going to move the battery up to the front.. i have about 1/4" more i can move it and then double check the front tires to make sure they are soft... i coulda built them and marked them wrong... i built softs and med fronts and hard rears all at the same time...
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:50 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiggindude6969 View Post
I have the same issue with the side springs poping off... so i glued them the last run after i lost the left side black sping and one gold spring... i had 2 sets of gold springs or i woulda been out this weekend.... since then, one of the local racers told me that he is using the CRC alum holders and springs.. they are on A main hobbies. He is using them and they have not came off yet. I need to find a way to get more steering. I am using 1000 wt in my side damper, 50 in the center, with hard rear springs and med front springs.. and i cant get my rear end to break loose unless i slam on the breaks and turn the wheel.... This week i am going to move the battery up to the front.. i have about 1/4" more i can move it and then double check the front tires to make sure they are soft... i coulda built them and marked them wrong... i built softs and med fronts and hard rears all at the same time...
Heavy side springs actually offer less corner speed, with more stability
If you want the car to turn in hard, try less pre-load on side springs, 1 or 2 turns out from touching the pod plate will make the car very aggressive
Side springs just touching is a good baseline
Match roll damper to springs, heavier damping, slower roll, too heavy and inside wheel lift can occur

Read up on some 12th scale articles for more info on tuning a link car

And make sure the pod is built with no bind at all
To check this, remove motor and all upper pod sections
Lower pod plate with links should be free of any tension, just like a damper has to be free on it's pivot, same deal
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:44 PM   #235
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on the v.2 setup sheet it has:
"Upright spacer": is that the amount of shims ABOVE the front upright?

also

"Rebound stroke": is that front end droop, lke mentioned in the tamiya usa article?
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Old 07-23-2012, 02:48 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
on the v.2 setup sheet it has:
"Upright spacer": is that the amount of shims ABOVE the front upright?

also

"Rebound stroke": is that front end droop, lke mentioned in the tamiya usa article?
Yes and Yes

btw, there is no need to add spacers under the uprights, they serve no purpose, and can cause the pivot ball to pop-out on the lower A-arm during a hard impact

just make sure to have the droop screws adjusted correctly
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:25 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post

And make sure the pod is built with no bind at all
To check this, remove motor and all upper pod sections
Lower pod plate with links should be free of any tension, just like a damper has to be free on it's pivot, same deal
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:18 PM   #238
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ok, next question:

I am going to run the regular TRF center shock, what oil would respond like #900 in the kit v.2 center shock
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:31 PM   #239
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Quote:
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ok, next question:

I am going to run the regular TRF center shock, what oil would respond like #900 in the kit v.2 center shock
30wt in TRF shock is close to 900wt on kit aluminum shock
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:21 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Well done Rob !
That's bout as in depth as you can get on setting the football

This is THE main factor to proper link car assembly

The center pivot ball free play is also adjustable, this should be free, with as little play as possible
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