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Old 07-18-2012, 09:50 AM   #211
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FMW & I had the V2's out for a test today.
Location, Speedtech RC, Host to the next round of the UF1 series, on what is the shortest outdoor circuit of the season
Conditions, bumpy, dusty, tight lanes, low grip concrete, i.e. "FGX

By comparison my WGP car was very restricted as to how far from baseline the car would change based on limited setting options

V2 is a whole new animal

Test and see for yourselves

btw, don't be afraid to try very light pitch & roll springs
This works well on carpet, and asphalt

Today we were running all Pink springs, 900wt Pitch, 15k Roll with plastic roll damper
what do you mean by 15k roll with plastic damper? V2 came with oil damper for roll, did u put 15000 ?
And I also have a question for setting f1, usually on touring car the basic setup is hard spring and oil front , softer spring back , is it the same with f1?
Sorry Im new with F1 so still trying to figure out how to set the car....

Thanks
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:35 PM   #212
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I think by plastic damper he means he used the parts 1-4 on the "W" parts tree in the kit... My car is completely kit, and i took it out today in a car park and it runs sweet!!! Needs a little more rear end traction but i was running in a car park on a cold day with tamiya medium rubber tyres, so im not all too concenrned at this stage. Got my soft springs all around to put in to test out how this thing tunes though.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:32 AM   #213
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I think by plastic damper he means he used the parts 1-4 on the "W" parts tree in the kit... My car is completely kit, and i took it out today in a car park and it runs sweet!!! Needs a little more rear end traction but i was running in a car park on a cold day with tamiya medium rubber tyres, so im not all too concenrned at this stage. Got my soft springs all around to put in to test out how this thing tunes though.
The soft spring is silver?
And one more question from nubie....the spring on front kingpin is acting like front spring on touring car and the roll damper and side spring same as rear damper and spring on touring...what about the roll damper and spring?

Thanks
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:14 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by k4mp4q View Post
what do you mean by 15k roll with plastic damper? V2 came with oil damper for roll, did u put 15000 ?
I bet on X1 damper but I'm just trying


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The soft spring is silver?
They told me that for the RM-01 spring set (Item #54359 and #54352) pink is the softest (super soft), than goes silver, gold and black.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:55 AM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k4mp4q View Post
what do you mean by 15k roll with plastic damper? V2 came with oil damper for roll, did u put 15000 ?
Thanks
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Originally Posted by LordAnubis View Post
I think by plastic damper he means he used the parts 1-4 on the "W" parts tree in the kit...
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I bet on X1 damper but I'm just trying
They told me that for the RM-01 spring set (Item #54359 and #54352) pink is the softest (super soft), than goes silver, gold and black.
Currently, using the kit plastic damper with Tamiya Hard damper lube

Been running this on the RM-01, got kind of used to it

will test the kit aluminum damper soon
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:01 PM   #216
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Fully finished up and did a few quick circles in the garage. Now its set up time.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.

1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?

2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.

3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.

I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.



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Old 07-20-2012, 04:38 AM   #217
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17.5 motor, blinky speedie, reasonable gearing, tamiya rear softs and medium fronts, pink springs all around, kit oils all around, shorty lipo taped in forward position.

This this glued to the track !!!!! This car is going to be awesome can't wait for proper racing with this thing!!!! I may take the pink springs off the sides and put silvers on them, but we'll see...
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Old 07-20-2012, 04:31 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropsomegears View Post
Fully finished up and did a few quick circles in the garage. Now its set up time.
F1 is a onroad car but def not touring cars. I know how to follow a set up sheet but ran into a few hiccups.

1. Set up sheet for Tamiya track says to set rebound stroke to 1.5mm. Does that mean limit the spring travel to only 1.5mm by tightening the grub screw in the upright onto the shaft or add a 1.5mm spacer under the spring ontop of the Eclip?

From the Tamiya article....
"The front end droop is easily adjusted by the two screws found on the lower part of the front suspension. The directions in the kit do not explain the screws purpose, but it is there to adjust front end droop. The more spacers you add to the bottom of the screw head the less front end droop you will have. The screws limit the top of the front suspension control arm. The taller you make the screw the sooner the top control arm will bottom out resulting in less droop.

The easiest way to measure your front end droop is to measure your front ride height (use millimeters as your method of measure). Make sure the car is fully equipped as if it's ready to hit the track. Then lift the front end and measure the front ride height again once you see the front tires barely lift from your flat set up board or table. The difference between the two measurements will give you the droop value. "



2. Rear ride hight says 6mm in the rear...I cant seem to get the rear lower than 7.5 =\ any suggestions to what I'm missing? only thing I'm thinking is the difference in diameter of the tamiya Foam and rubber wheels. I havent glued the pit shizumi yet cause I'm undecided if i want to run them on foam or rubber rims.

Where do you have the 1/2 moon thing on the axle adjuster? It should be on the bottom. What number axle cam are you using?



3. Roll springs....New to them and I have no idea how to set them I measured them equal length but should they lift up off the chassis when the rear pod is twisted? I read on the Tamiya site to set the chassis straight which I did but I still feel that its loose and the springs will pop off.

This is an age old debate from 1/12 as well. Some people like to have the springs "float" above the chassis. I think this feels weird to drive. I like them to just touch. You really don't want them all preloaded.

You can put the car on a tweak bar to make sure the springs are adjusted correctly. Or, you can put a penny on each front wheel and lift the car from dead center on the front end with a razor blade. The wheel that the penny rolls off first is light. Usually you need to add more preload to the opposite side spring to get the car tweaked straight.


I'm prolly just overthinking thing but I want to get a handle on tuning cause thats a major part of the battle. That and my 7 month old doesnt allowThanks in advance.



Ben.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:31 PM   #219
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"The easiest way to measure your front end droop is to measure your front ride height (use millimeters as your method of measure). Make sure the car is fully equipped as if it's ready to hit the track. Then lift the front end and measure the front ride height again once you see the front tires barely lift from your flat set up board or table. The difference between the two measurements will give you
the droop value. "

GOTCHA!!! But since the lower suspension arms are solid I would push down and check the droop. But one problem solved.

As far as the the rear moon axel pod thing its on top and I'm using number one with the number up just like the set up sheet so I can get as low as possible. If i put the moon thing up bottom I'm over the limit of my ride height gauge =\. I'll go tinker around now and see if I can't get the front end hooked up and see about the rear.

Thanks for the info. I'll make sure the roll springs arent tensed.


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Old 07-20-2012, 08:09 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dropsomegears View Post
As far as the the rear moon axel pod thing its on top and I'm using number one with the number up just like the set up sheet so I can get as low as possible. If i put the moon thing up bottom I'm over the limit of my ride height gauge =\. I'll go tinker around now and see if I can't get the front end hooked up and see about the rear.



Ben.
The higher the axle sits in the pod, the lower your ride height will be.

The lower your axle sits in the pod, the higher the ride height is.

If the 1/2 moon thingy is in the top of the pod, you are making the axle sit like 5mm lower no matter what cam adjuster you have in there. If you get the axle up where it is supposed to be, I'm sure you will be golden.
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Old 07-21-2012, 01:38 AM   #221
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A bit of a disappointing track day today. Hit a wall and the front left upper arm and lower arm broke clean off (which is wierd as ive had much harder hits with the same front end and never broken a thing)...

In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:27 AM   #222
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Associated ones are of same exact length?
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Old 07-21-2012, 01:16 PM   #223
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A bit of a disappointing track day today. Hit a wall and the front left upper arm and lower arm broke clean off (which is wierd as ive had much harder hits with the same front end and never broken a thing)...

In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
What's the part nr of those side links from associated?
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Old 07-21-2012, 05:46 PM   #224
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In any case i also broke both the side links clean in half. Put associated ones on there now so we'll see how it goes.
Our V2 racers also learned to glue the side springs else they pop out and get lost on the track.

Having a race today. Excited to see how the V2s do.
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Old 07-21-2012, 07:38 PM   #225
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Associated ones are of same exact length?
Yes same length as the link on associated 12R5 pan car. Although the ball diameter for associated i think is a little smaller as the links aren't as freely moving when connected to the tamiya balls.

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What's the part nr of those side links from associated? ?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Brace-Pod-Link

and

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eam-Pivot-Ball

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Our V2 racers also learned to glue the side springs else they pop out and get lost on the track.
I used pliers and pinched the top of the spring slightly (made a smaller circle on the top of the spring that attaches to the plastic thing). This locks the spring onto the plastic thing really well. Haven't lost a spring yet.
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