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Old 10-27-2013, 03:26 PM   #1486
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I run on med/high grip asphalt and the carbon fiber piece that is on the servo mount is it necessary to run with it or is it just a flex option or is it there just to hold the servo?
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:34 PM   #1487
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I run on med/high grip asphalt and the carbon fiber piece that is on the servo mount is it necessary to run with it or is it just a flex option or is it there just to hold the servo?
The carbon piece on the servo mount is there to provide some extra strenght for the servo.
As when the servo turns the wheels you will notice that the servo moves sideways without the carbon brace.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:28 PM   #1488
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Ok what about must have options for the car are the ceramic bearing really necessary??
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:01 PM   #1489
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Not necessary but if your lap times are faster with ceramic bearings why not?
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:08 PM   #1490
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The ceramic balls in the diff? or Ceramic bearings on the car?

In the diff, definetly! Makes it so much smoother, i was able to feel the difference. On the car? it's hard to tell
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:26 PM   #1491
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Also do u guys think my Reventon Pro which is 140A is too much for the F1 car I have a Justock club spec with is 45A with 245A burst. One of them will be combined with a Reedy Sonic Mach 2 21.5. Any suggestions on timing and FDR. It's at 20* with 64p 96/35 right now. I want to get both speed and punch coming out of the turn. Any suggestions??
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:18 PM   #1492
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I'm also going to get rid of the stock diff plates and get the 417's I already have the ceramic diff balls but do I have to sand the 417 diff plates a little or do nothing to them at all just install them with the ceramic balls.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:18 PM   #1493
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Also I know to run 16 gauge wire to the motor but what about to the battery is 12 gauge fine or is 14 gauge fine?
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:25 PM   #1494
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Justock is more than plenty for 21.5 F1.

Sanding the diff plate never hurts, I'd do it anyways.

14 gauge is fine for battery.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:37 PM   #1495
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I'm also going to get rid of the stock diff plates and get the 417's I already have the ceramic diff balls but do I have to sand the 417 diff plates a little or do nothing to them at all just install them with the ceramic balls.
The kit came with 417 diff plates, not sure why you need to upgrade to them?.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:56 PM   #1496
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The kit came with 417 diff plates, not sure why you need to upgrade to them?.
I didn't know that well it never hurts to put new ones in. So sanding them down a bit what exactly does it do?
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #1497
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What about final drive what do u guys think about it I'll be running on a 100x70 asphalt track. Like I said I'm running 96/35 but I ordered a 33 so I'll be at 2.9 with 96/33.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:20 PM   #1498
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The idea of sanding the disc plates is to put a texture and remove the shine on the surfaces which give the diff balls more bite. This allows you to have a freer diff (no need to tighten down so much) while not having it slip. I don't sand my discs anymore because after one run the balls will put a groove into the plates and the sanding texture doesn't do anything. The only time I would sand is if the plates are not flat. IMHO it's better to use ceramic diff balls than sanding the plates.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:34 PM   #1499
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Ok well I have ceramic balls and new plates coming in so ill just drop them in and put the new plates on. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #1500
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For gearing I would shoot for reaching top speed about 2/3 down your longest straight and having the punch you want in the infield. You have to temp. your motor to help figure out gearing. On my D3 I shoot for 150 or slightly less degrees after 5 minutes. Your gearing also depends on whether you have a torque or rpm motor and what the motor timing is set at. As an example my track is about 170'x65' and my 21.5T motor timing is set at 50 degrees. On Pit Shimizu tires of approx. 63mm diameter, my gearing is between 2.93 - 3.03
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