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Old 07-02-2012, 08:35 AM   #136
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Originally Posted by Telinoz1975 View Post
Anyway, one other option is this Futaba: S9551. Is that better then the Savox for this chassis?

Any others?
There are KoPropo and Sanwa low profile servos as well but I do have two S9551 (one of them in my F104 Pro) and one BLS551 and all of them are working very well (with Futaba radio).
Not sure if S9551 is way better than Savox they should be very similar in characteristic.

EDIT: I would recommend regular size low profile servo (like Savox SC-1251) because of easy instalation...
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:21 PM   #137
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I got my kit on Friday and spent the weekend putting it together for a shake down once the motor arrives tomorrow. I do have a question pertaining to the shock caps. The intructions have you drill a 1mm hole into the cap. My question is this, drill though one side or all the way through? My first F1 car and I don't want to screw it up with the intial build.
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:32 PM   #138
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My question is this, drill though one side or all the way through?
part way, an earlier post states
I'm thinking a good safe way would be to put a drill bit the shock shaft size thriough the cap then drill until you hit it




my question:
Anyone know a correct countersink bit to countersink the shorty battery mount hole in the chassis?
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:34 PM   #139
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Only one side, itīs written in some earlier posts here I think.
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Old 07-02-2012, 01:35 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayL View Post
part way, an earlier post states
I'm thinking a good safe way would be to put a drill bit the shock shaft size thriough the cap then drill until you hit it

my question:
Anyone know a correct countersink bit to countersink the shorty battery mount hole in the chassis?
I don't know if it's the correct size or not, but I used a 3/16 carbide, 6 flute 82 degree bit. Make sure you go with a carbide bit since the chassis is carbon fiber.

This place has them pretty reasonable: http://toolinghouse.com/CC1188.aspx





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Old 07-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #141
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@JayL

Just a suggestion, but if youíre going to do some countersinking you might want to consider countersinking the Carbon Damper Mount Plate (item# 54351). The instructions have you fasten the large ball end and spacers with a lock nut from the bottom of the plate. The nut ends up hanging down about 3mm. When the rear pod pivots forward the nut can bottom out on the top of your battery or electronics, depending on your configuration. Keep in mind I was testing fitting this with no shock on the car. I decided to save myself some hassles down the road and just countersunk the hole when I did the chassis. When itís done just use a countersunk screw (3x8 or 3x10) from the bottom, spacer(s) and a ball nut.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:33 PM   #142
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I just picked up a KO RSX one10 servo. After trying it out, the thing feels faster than the RSX Response, even though the specs are slightly slower.

http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...190&Itemid=198
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:45 PM   #143
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@JayL

Just a suggestion, but if youíre going to do some countersinking you might want to consider countersinking the Carbon Damper Mount Plate (item# 54351). The instructions have you fasten the large ball end and spacers with a lock nut from the bottom of the plate. The nut ends up hanging down about 3mm. When the rear pod pivots forward the nut can bottom out on the top of your battery or electronics, depending on your configuration. Keep in mind I was testing fitting this with no shock on the car. I decided to save myself some hassles down the road and just countersunk the hole when I did the chassis. When itís done just use a countersunk screw (3x8 or 3x10) from the bottom, spacer(s) and a ball nut.
good idea, thanks!
How about a button head screw from the bottom and ball nut? this would give some more thickness support and probably still allow more clearance than the original plastic setup?
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Old 07-02-2012, 11:22 PM   #144
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Default f1r vs f104 v2

I think somebody asked this already and nobody answered so I need to bring this up again.
I have f104 stock and wanted to upgrade to f1r then v2 came out.
what do you guys think?
should I go to f1r to save initial expense or get v2 no matter what because it's superior comparing to f1r?
I really need the input on this.
thank you.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:13 AM   #145
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I think somebody asked this already and nobody answered so I need to bring this up again.
I have f104 stock and wanted to upgrade to f1r then v2 came out.
what do you guys think?
should I go to f1r to save initial expense or get v2 no matter what because it's superior comparing to f1r?
I really need the input on this.
thank you.
Hi what is an F1r?
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:16 AM   #146
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I think he wants an exotec conversion or the V2.
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:27 AM   #147
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I think he wants an exotec conversion or the V2.
Ah ok thanks.
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Old 07-03-2012, 06:24 AM   #148
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Settled on low profile Futaba BLS551.
Fast, plenty of grunt.
Just need approx 4mm spacer to fit and that's it - Tamiya kit# 53539 has spaces to suit.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:07 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
good idea, thanks!
How about a button head screw from the bottom and ball nut? this would give some more thickness support and probably still allow more clearance than the original plastic setup?
That would probably work better than the stock set up. I just wanted something smooth and interference free. I don't think the carbon plate will break because of the countersinking...but I guess anything is possible if hit just right.
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:14 AM   #150
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Default 104v2 ARR

I have mine together, My kit was missing a few of the 5mmx3mm ball ends, the ones that you mount on the 2 posts on top beside the servo. (not the ones with the posts, the flat ones) I borrowed a few from the Woody at RCH! Thank you Woody! Kit went together well, I am just needing to mount my esc, deciding which one i should use and i need to change out the wires from 12 ga to 16 ga. and the capacitor is too big on them to fit well. Does anyone have a set up sheet for this car out yet that they will share. We run ashault, Pits hard rear and soft fronts. I have the full spring kit, but i built with the gold springs. 50 on the side damp and 20 on the top.?? suggestions. 5mm RH in fron and 6mm in the back.

Tamiya F104 Version 2-104v2-14.jpg

Tamiya F104 Version 2-104v2-12.jpg

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