Aggdaddy

Does anybody know if this is a decent device to zap batteries?

How does it compare to the Turbomatcher or other zappers?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=7404

andsetinn

This looks like fine zapper. But it does not look good enough to open up your own Zapping business. For personal use, to breathe life into old batterys it looks fine.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

What zapper are you talking about bro?

The turbomatcher isn't a zapper- it's a matcher. It doesn't do anything to enhance the cells it simply gives you data on the discharge of indiviual cells.

Here's the skinny on battery zappers- the ones you can buy that are affordable are simply maintenance zappers. They do little other than occassionally bring back cells that start to go flat, and typically only help them for a short period of time.

The zappers like Danny at SMC use are custom built to his exact specifications (which are secret) and costs thousands of dollars. In fact, I haven't asked him personally, but I understand the cost of his current zapper would buy you a new pickup truck!!

For those of you who want to know Danny's personal suggestion for battery packs, here it is: Keep one or two of your current packs that are beginning to get flat, short runtime, etc to use as a first-run practice pack(s). Then buy two or three decent packs. Even if you run at Trackside or Cleveland where there are lots of great drivers (The Gate is Mike Blackstock and Paul Cicarillo's home track), you really don't need the best batteries out there! Just get two or three $60-$70 packs from SMC or your favorite battery supplier and run them 2 or three times per race day. Don't try to depend on batteries to win the race. Rather, work on setup and consistent driving skills to win races. Then, when your packs begin to feel flat, give your old practice packs to some newbie who will think you're the coolest guy at the track, demote your race packs to practice packs and buy two or three new packs!! This keeps you in fresh batteries which is the most important aspect when it comes to race packs. If you buy six or eight packs at a time and run them all the same amount, then they all go flat and dead before you want to spend the money to buy six or eight new packs!!! This came straight from Danny!! I know it sounds like he's cutting his own throat by telling racers to not buy so many batteries at one time, but that's the type of business man he is- honest. He would rather have his customers get faster and spend their money smarter so they will know who they can count on and believe opposed to customers who buy some stuff and never come back. If that weren't true why would he be matching at 35amps where the numbers "seem" to look crappy?

Aggdaddy

sorry about that

Here's the link

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=7404

Aggdaddy

Thanks for the info. I think I remember seeing someone's post that they referred to a turbomatcher as a zapper as part of its normal functions.

I'm informed now. Thanks

nnick

iTrader: (1)

That is exaclty what I'm doing!

You always have new batteries and it costs you less in a season

Nick

yodaopie

Just curious as to how long it takes for you guys to notice a batterey is starting to go flat? and one other question. How many times a day is it safe to cycle NiMH packs? I remeber when I used to race with SCR 1700s (yah its been a while) You only ran the pack once a day if you wanted to take care of it. It seems like the NiMH packs are much more robust but I still want to take care of them the right way.

Also if I only have say 2 packs and need to run 4 races (3 heats and a main) Should I be dischargeing the packs after my race or should I just repeak them? I know I need to let them cool after running before I do either but Im curious as to which is better for my battereis gonna be another month before I can purchase some more packs

Thanks for the info and sorry if I hijacked this a bit with my ?s