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Old 04-20-2012, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by locked
If you lived near me, I'd just give you a real motor.

Using an RS Pro for a brushed motor is like using a super computer to just play solitaire.
Look I know this, But wanted a ESC that would do both, It's not always regarding speed.

I got this to get used to 540 then move up to brushless, the idea is to save on costs in the long run, Buy 1 esc that can do 2.

I do have a LRP SSX also no probs at all, That's hooked to a 10.5 Brushless motor.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
fwd + brk

I went by the manual that is shown in Fig 7

A,B,C to Black wire to - Battery
Red Positive wire split to Battery and Positive Battery
and Negative wire from Battery to Neg ESC.
Wait, you have the ABC wires all connected to the -Battery? Hopefully you mean motor..

Is your motor type correctly set for Brushed mode? It should be Motor Type 4.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:40 AM
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Sorry yes I meant Neg Motor

Type 4 mean when I hit the Button it shows 4 leds on.
Then yes
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:42 AM
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A brushless 21.5 is comparable to a silver can for speed. Any chance you can find a used one cheap? As far as programming, yes the Hotwire is a great tool for giving a true visual of the current programming. I have programmed my RSs and thought I saved the settings only to log in with Hotwire to find everything had reverted because I had done something wrong manually. I do not ever trust flashing lights.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:47 AM
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I would have loved to go the 21.5 Brushless
But our clubs do not allow this atm
Still the same old 540.

They are in test mode still with the 21.5 here.
Thus also the reason for the Tekin RS Pro Brushed and Brushless version.

But to be Honest, It's starting to make me feel like a Dick!
As I have already had to send one to them (being Tekin)
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:50 AM
  #21  
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Do you have any other brushed motors you can try hooking it to? Also I would try hooking your brushless motor up to it, make sure you put it to motor type 1, 2 or 3 and see if it will drive it.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
I would have loved to go the 21.5 Brushless
But our clubs do not allow this atm
Still the same old 540.

They are in test mode still with the 21.5 here.
Thus also the reason for the Tekin RS Pro Brushed and Brushless version.

But to be Honest, It's starting to make me feel like a Dick!
As I have already had to send one to them (being Tekin)
I understand your pain. And no, I see the frustration coming through, your not being a dick at all. I hope you get it working!
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TY@TEAMTEKIN
Do you have any other brushed motors you can try hooking it to? Also I would try hooking your brushless motor up to it, make sure you put it to motor type 1, 2 or 3 and see if it will drive it.
Hi'

If I go the Brushless way, then I will have to Desolder the Other 3 wires
and reconnect again. Do not wish to be rude, But I want it Brushed.
Reason why I went this path.

I have tried another new in box Johnson 540 Motor. Same thing.
I sent a Picture of the ESC hooked up and with the Original Cap Blown into Tech support.
But still waiting on a solution.

I was told any Cap with 16V 330uf will do the job.
So it does have another brand Cap soldered to the ESC.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I understand your pain. And no, I see the frustration coming through, your not being a dick at all. I hope you get it working!
Same here, To be Honest.
I'm starting to think I should hit my head against the wall.

Not saying Tekin in Bad or being non Helpful, Just that I wish for this to work so I can
use it this Sunday.
But by the looks of it, I cannot see it happening.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
Same here, To be Honest.
I'm starting to think I should hit my head against the wall.

Not saying Tekin in Bad or being non Helpful, Just that I wish for this to work so I can
use it this Sunday.
But by the looks of it, I cannot see it happening.
Post the pic here so we can get a visual?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064
Post the pic here so we can get a visual?

Last Picture is the Old Original Cap that Blew last night while in Calibration mode.
The Other 3 are at the Moment installed today,
Attached Thumbnails Tekin rs pro is Killing me-1.jpg   Tekin rs pro is Killing me-2.jpg   Tekin rs pro is Killing me-3.jpg   Tekin rs pro is Killing me-old.jpg  
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
Hi'

If I go the Brushless way, then I will have to Desolder the Other 3 wires
and reconnect again. Do not wish to be rude, But I want it Brushed.
Reason why I went this path.
If you are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it and trying to figure out if it is busted, are you really now trying to say that re-soldering three wires is more difficult than boxing the thing back up and shipping it back to Tekin? Seeing whether it works brushless can help you figure out if the whole thing is actually busted or whether you just have it set up incorrectly. Troubleshooting 101.

Also, the reason you should buy a Hotwire is to avoid all of this business. You plug it in to your computer, you don't have to mess around with blinking lights, and you know immediately what software is on your esc and what settings it is using.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar
If you are having trouble figuring out what is wrong with it and trying to figure out if it is busted, are you really now trying to say that re-soldering three wires is more difficult than boxing the thing back up and shipping it back to Tekin? Seeing whether it works brushless can help you figure out if the whole thing is actually busted or whether you just have it set up incorrectly. Troubleshooting 101.

Also, the reason you should buy a Hotwire is to avoid all of this business. You plug it in to your computer, you don't have to mess around with blinking lights, and you know immediately what software is on your esc and what settings it is using.
I'm Not saying that re-soldering the 3 wires is more difficult than boxing it back up.
Remember I have already Boxed one up and waited for the return.
I wish to really not have to go down that same path again.
But it's looking that way

As for Hotwire, If everyone is saying this is needed, Then why is it not sold with the Pro version?
Your paying top dollar as it is. Why do i need to spend another 40 odd dollars
to program a Brushed 540?
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
Last Picture is the Old Original Cap that Blew last night while in Calibration mode.
The Other 3 are at the Moment installed today,
This looks right for Forward only with Brakes. Try resetting the unit and then setting it back to mode 4 under LED 6/motor type.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Rcnutguy
As for Hotwire, If everyone is saying this is needed, Then why is it not sold with the Pro version?
Your paying top dollar as it is. Why do i need to spend another 40 odd dollars
to program a Brushed 540?
You will have to buy a separate programming box for nearly every single ESC out there, so I don't really think you can keep using this sort of logic. And you aren't using it to program a brushed 540, you are using it to program your ESC so that you can use a brushed 540, and ensure that the settings are correct for your intended application. You buy one hotwire and you can use it for however many Tekins you have, and it makes changing settings incredibly easy compared to the convoluted method you are currently using (that is perhaps already leading to confusion and error).

EDIT: And not everyone is saying you NEED a hotwire. However, in a situation where you are already having issues programming the esc, the Hotwire can help clarify things and makes programming your esc for both this application as well as any future uses incredibly easy. Just saying.
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