littlealex

iTrader: (86)

can someone give detail of how to remove the lipo cutoff unit in novak smart boost?
i heard it could make the car lose control and i m not risking it.
any info will be appreciated

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

it shuts your car off when your voltage is to low, quit believing everything you read on the internetz

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

seems like novak is recommending people to get rid of this chip

Monkeys punk

I have the drawing to remove the component to disable the lipo protection sent to me direct from Bob Novak. If you want it PM me with your email and I will forward it to you
I did it before I used mine for the first time and I have run my 1s down to 3.2 volt without it cutting out.
Just have to remember you dont have any protection unless you use the speedo one.

Monkeys punk

Just carefully cut the three solder post to that marked component

Smart_Boost_Bot.pdf

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

thanks monkey punks, my tekin rs already have lipo cut off and i really dont want to see my car hitting the wall at full speed.

i hope this will help other novak smart booster users

clean.racer

hello there can someone please help i have the novak smart boost its a new one from local model shop will this still have the same problem and is there anyway to tell what model i have thanks for the help in advance

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

There never really was a 'problem'. As designed, the Novak lipo cut off has a higher voltage threshold than most other cut offs. As you can see from this year old thread, it's mostly operator error mistaking the pulsing of the cut off saying 'hey, you're battery is about to run out and I'm going to shut you off' as electronic glitching/stuttering, and they didn't stop their car.

Typically, the steering servo would sort of 'brown out' and lock up while the ESC would still operate somewhat, thus the "...my car hitting the wall at full speed" comments. Doesn't happen if you're paying attention to what your electronics are telling you, and surely doesn't happen with 'standard' race durations today with today's batteries. Bashers usually don't care all that much, as the protection is more important than the two or three minutes of run time that they're missing out on.

Mostly, people got away from the Novak unit because of it's higher cut off and the newer ESC's all come with lipo cut off voltages or settings in them now. Also, early lipo batteries (contemporary with the release of the Novak smart boost) had much lower mah ratings for top end batteries than we have for low end batteries today, and lots of mod guys were getting to the novak low voltage cut off before they were finished with a race run, usually just a few laps shy.

Thus, many wanted to remove the chip so that they could finish a race run and no more!

If you remove the little component that provides lipo low voltage protection from the Novak smart boost, pay VERY CAREFUL attention to your run time, as you can easily kill a battery by running it down too low. If you leave it in, at the first indication of low voltage cut off, stop the car and recharge.

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

You might have a problem if it is the older(orginal) sytle Novak.The newer style which is smaller works fine! That's all I have and use on three different cars (oval and road course) with NO problems. If it not orange I don't use it ESC -Smart boost!

clean.racer

thanks for the help everyone what is the size of the new smaller 1?

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

I never really measured them. the older style was rectangled and flat. probably 1" by 1/2" the new style is 1/2 the size. If you go to the Novak site and see how to modify the smart boost and your looks like that one- That is the old style. Just get the new one.

Kevin Marcy

The old unit is 1" x 1.25", the new unit (according to the website) is 0.39" x 1.18", so less than half the size of the original. Also cheaper.

At the risk of starting a forum "flame session", the original unit DID have a real problem. When it detected low voltage, it did NOT interrupt the throttle (it's not connected to the throttle). Instead, it cut off power to the RECEIVER. Maybe this would work with older AM/FM radios, but the computerized ones either re-boot or go into fail-safe mode, leaving your car still moving in whatever direction and at whatever speed it was last at. So they could crash a $1000 car to protect a $50 battery.

It seemed to mainly ba a problem running timing-boosted ESCs (or low-turn Modified motors), which could pull enough amps to briefly trigger the low voltage cutoff.

cookie1

I have run the new booster in 1/12th mod with a Havoc sc pro. No problems what so ever with a Reedy 3.5 going mach 10 for 8minutes 30 seconds. Great booster right out of the bag..works great !