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Old 02-10-2014, 05:58 PM   #886
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ARC was still looking at the thread and asked me to post this in answer to Govert's question:

"Basically if you use shorter bell crank and less shim (more backward) , you will have more ackerman angle.
use longer bell crank and more shim (more forward) , you will have less ackerman angle."
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Old 02-10-2014, 05:59 PM   #887
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
just installed the floating motor mount, now my pinion does fit, the motor doesn't move far enough forward, and even it did, the pinion still hits the inside motor mount support.

I know a lot of people are using them so I'm assuming I did something wrong..

pics of your install please
What gearing are you trying to run (spur/pinion)?
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #888
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figured it out, took off the new upright support and went back to the stock one.
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:05 PM   #889
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What gearing are you trying to run (spur/pinion)?
its 96/50
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:18 PM   #890
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Congrats Sean with the early success car. TQ and a win leaving the competition in the dust scratching their heads. I told you from the get go that you would love the car.

Thanks for the heads up about the DCJ axles. I just check all three of my r10s and all six axles were crossed. My first two sets are almost a year old and my newest set is about a month old. I too thought it was funky that my new set chattered at full lock. Gives me a good reason to rebuild/lube the axles.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:03 PM   #891
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Make Sure that if and when you do buy the ARC double Jointed shafts, you check the pin positions, make sure you fully dismantle the joints and grease them accordingly before running them. While reassembling the shafts assembly make sure that the pins are on the same axis. Out of the box or package the pins are not on the same axis which will causes binding.
Yeah, you are right. I had some DJ CVD's in my box I just looked at. Ive never noticed any chattering while on the car though. I will try when it stops raining.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:37 PM   #892
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figured it out, took off the new upright support and went back to the stock one.
Be wary doung this, you will have no support for the top deck, you can run like this, but in a crash you risk damaging the top deck, and the handling will be inconsistent.
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Old 02-11-2014, 02:48 AM   #893
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Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
ARC was still looking at the thread and asked me to post this in answer to Govert's question:

"Basically if you use shorter bell crank and less shim (more backward) , you will have more ackerman angle.
use longer bell crank and more shim (more forward) , you will have less ackerman angle."
So basically, when I use standard bell crank (ARC-R101060) and just shim more and more, the ackermann would be less?

This means, the steering rods would be angled quite much. Is this correct and does this provide less ackermann?
In some cars, like TRF, the straighter the rods are positioned, the least of ackermann is provided. But if I get it right, the ARC shows opposite (like Xray always had/has).

Reminds me, what is the standard bell crank (steering arm) lenght? 18, 20 or maybe 22mm?
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Last edited by Govert; 02-11-2014 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:08 PM   #894
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Originally Posted by Govert View Post
So basically, when I use standard bell crank (ARC-R101060) and just shim more and more, the ackermann would be less?

This means, the steering rods would be angled quite much. Is this correct and does this provide less ackermann?
In some cars, like TRF, the straighter the rods are positioned, the least of ackermann is provided. But if I get it right, the ARC shows opposite (like Xray always had/has).

Reminds me, what is the standard bell crank (steering arm) lenght? 18, 20 or maybe 22mm?
The stock bell crank is the plastic version which is 18mm, but an Aluminium one can be bought now. The 22mm is very good for a tight chicane
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Old 02-11-2014, 12:47 PM   #895
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The stock bell crank is the plastic version which is 18mm, but an Aluminium one can be bought now. The 22mm is very good for a tight chicane
Thank you for confirming 18mm for std bell crank. So, now I'm confused....You say the 22mm is better for tight chicanes, so my conclusion is that 22mm bell crank increases ackermann in your situation. Right?

Let me put it this way; Is it right when I state that:

22mm bell crank combined with (let's say) 0mm shims is equal to 18mm bell crank combined with 4mm shims (makes 22mm total).

My main questions stays, what do I have to do to reduce ackermann?
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:01 PM   #896
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Longer cranks won't give exactly the same effect as more spacers.

The ackermann on this car works just like the ackermann on the other cars you mention. To have less ackermann (less difference in angle between the front wheels) use longer cranks or more spacers, to have more ackermann do the opposite.
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Old 02-11-2014, 04:54 PM   #897
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Longer cranks won't give exactly the same effect as more spacers.

The ackermann on this car works just like the ackermann on the other cars you mention. To have less ackermann (less difference in angle between the front wheels) use longer cranks or more spacers, to have more ackermann do the opposite.
Thank you for clarifying sosidge. Now it's all clear. Will try this setting tomorrow...
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:21 PM   #898
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Be wary doung this, you will have no support for the top deck, you can run like this, but in a crash you risk damaging the top deck, and the handling will be inconsistent.
thanks, never thought of that..

as much as i hate to I guess I'll go small on spur..
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:32 PM   #899
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thanks, never thought of that..

as much as i hate to I guess I'll go small on spur..
Smaller spurs and taller pinions work well with lower turn motors. Let say a 25.5 or 21.5.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:50 PM   #900
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Smaller spurs and taller pinions work well with lower turn motors. Let say a 25.5 or 21.5.
yes, but that's the only to get to the desired ratio.

if I could get to 25.5, 21.5 or 17.5 ratio with a 106 spur I would. but I can't, so I don't.
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