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Old 06-24-2012, 08:14 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
How odd to see that much of the battery and servo hanging over the chassis

Per the servo mount, extremely odd that there isnt a countersunk screw there, would make much more sense, and give an extra 2mm of roll clearance.
I thought the same too at the beginning. Why not use flat screw on the outer servo mount. I think if they use the flat screw then the servo mount must go thicker means the servo will be in higher position making the servo can't sit as low as possible. But I think they can use M2 screw on that area.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:25 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Don't think this is a car issue. I't seems to me this is a rear left tire partly unglued or not properly glued?

I saw many T3's live but never happened something like this (ETS, Euros, different Nationals ...) also my friend's run this car, show them the videos and they never experienced something like this!
It is hard to believe their tyre is not glued properly at that race level. They are pro of the pro.

Tell your friends to get a 417, BD5, R10 first then ask them to come here to share what they feel compare to T3. Make sure he is running with like 4.5 or 5.5T motor on good traction surface. I bid he will see the lap time improved with his new car on by using the default setting. If he runs stock and/or at low traction surface then he will not see much different. As T3 born with PUSH in nature. He may go faster, easier to drive on stock/low traction.
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
It is hard to believe their tyre is not glued properly at that race level. They are pro of the pro.

Tell your friends to get a 417, BD5, R10 first then ask them to come here to share what they feel compare to T3. Make sure he is running with like 4.5 or 5.5T motor on good traction surface. I bid he will see the lap time improved with his new car on by using the default setting. If he runs stock and/or at low traction surface then he will not see much different. As T3 born with PUSH in nature. He may go faster, easier to drive on stock/low traction.
Paul Lemieux wining the pre-world's with the Xray T3. Hagberg on 6'th.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDkng...ayer_embedded#!

Don't see any issues on normal tarmac or carpet surface. Maybe on specially chemically treated surfaces?

1. Paul Lemieux – Xray/Thunder Power – 20 (10/10/10)
2. Naoto Matsukura – Yokomo/Yokomo – 17 (7/9/(8)
3. Viktor Wilck – Tamiya/Thunder Power – 17 (9/8/7)
4. Ronald Völker – Yokomo/LRP – 16 (2/7/9)
5. Jilles Groskamp – Tamiya/Orion – 12 (6/6/5)
6. Alexander Hagberg – Xray/ORCA – 11 (5/3/(6)
7. Marc Rheinard – Tamiya/Speed Passion – 9 (8/1/1)
8. Hayato Matsuzaki – Yokomo/Reedy – 8 (3/(5/2)
9. Marc Fischer – Serpent/Speed Passion – 8 (4/4/4)
10. Yannic Prümper – Yokomo/Thunder Power – 5 (1/2/3)
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:49 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Geberit View Post
Paul Lemieux wining the pre-world's with the Xray T3. Hagberg on 6'th.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDkng...ayer_embedded#!

Don't see any issues on normal tarmac or carpet surface. Maybe on specially chemically treated surfaces?

1. Paul Lemieux – Xray/Thunder Power – 20 (10/10/10)
2. Naoto Matsukura – Yokomo/Yokomo – 17 (7/9/(8)
3. Viktor Wilck – Tamiya/Thunder Power – 17 (9/8/7)
4. Ronald Völker – Yokomo/LRP – 16 (2/7/9)
5. Jilles Groskamp – Tamiya/Orion – 12 (6/6/5)
6. Alexander Hagberg – Xray/ORCA – 11 (5/3/(6)
7. Marc Rheinard – Tamiya/Speed Passion – 9 (8/1/1)
8. Hayato Matsuzaki – Yokomo/Reedy – 8 (3/(5/2)
9. Marc Fischer – Serpent/Speed Passion – 8 (4/4/4)
10. Yannic Prümper – Yokomo/Thunder Power – 5 (1/2/3)
I think he can still win by using TT01. It is difficult to presude you this i know. You have try it yourself. If Paul uses Yokomo, he can do better lap time then Xray. I know you must think every car is the same and is all but setting. It is not..
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:11 AM   #80
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where can one purchase this car in north america, and which hobby shop will be supporting this car with parts, upgrades etc in north america, so far I only see rc mushroom carring this, thanks
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Old 07-06-2012, 01:51 AM   #81
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Any more race experiences with the little ARC Fella?
I hear its another weak or two until the Australian stocks arrive, cant wait.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:30 AM   #82
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Default Spurs for ARC R10

Which spurs fit for this car?
Can't see any on RC Mushroom smaller than 83T.

I heard of someone buying these.
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...8-hard-p-19070

Or these maybe?
http://www.rc-direct.co.uk/-c-60_235.html

Any suggestions?

Which spur is in the kit? I mean how many teeth?

Can I combine this spur gear with pinion gears to get me FDR between 3.0 and 5.0?
I mean the pinions will be quite large that way, knowing that the IR is 2.0 and the spur gear in the kit will be about 83T (or more).
I mean is there enough space for that spur and pinions that large to get me these FDR's and get them meshed the right way?

What about the weight of the car. It must be easily be below 1,350gr. If not, it's a no go for me.

What is the rear toe in with the alu suspension brackets 0, 1, 2, 3?
Do the dots mean degrees?
The manual says FR1 and FF2. That would be 1 degree toe out than?
The manual says RR3 and RF0. That would be 3 degrees of toe in than?

Last edited by Kensei; 07-09-2012 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:41 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Which spurs fit for this car?
Can't see any on RC Mushroom smaller than 83T.

I heard of someone buying these.
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...8-hard-p-19070

Or these maybe?
http://www.rc-direct.co.uk/-c-60_235.html

Any suggestions?

Which spur is in the kit? I mean how many teeth?

Can I combine this spur gear with pinion gears to get me FDR between 3.0 and 5.0?
I mean the pinions will be quite large that way, knowing that the IR is 2.0 and the spur gear in the kit will be about 83T (or more).
I mean is there enough space for that spur and pinions that large to get me these FDR's and get them meshed the right way?

What about the weight of the car. It must be easily be below 1,350gr. If not, it's a no go for me.

What is the rear toe in with the alu suspension brackets 0, 1, 2, 3?
Do the dots mean degrees?
The manual says FR1 and FF2. That would be 1 degree toe out than?
The manual says RR3 and RF0. That would be 3 degrees of toe in than?
The kit spur is 84T 48Dp

The 'xray' spur gears from rc-direct are ideal, using them myself but the 64Dp.

If using 48Dp you will not get as low as 3 FDR using the kit spur, you will need to go smaller, no problem to get 5 FDR. There is no space problem with 64Dp spur/pinion.

Weight of my car using standard sized servo, motor cooler, 0.8mm bodyshell,shorty lipo and including transponder comes to 1365g. Could probably loose a few grams with neater/shorter wiring.

Yes dots mean degrees, so your toe in/out is correct.

Hope this helps. Overall am very pleased with this car, kit built well,good quality parts, worked well with kit setup. Running it as 17.5T blinky, easily as good as my S411, probably better.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:38 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edam Racer View Post
The kit spur is 84T 48Dp

The 'xray' spur gears from rc-direct are ideal, using them myself but the 64Dp.

If using 48Dp you will not get as low as 3 FDR using the kit spur, you will need to go smaller, no problem to get 5 FDR. There is no space problem with 64Dp spur/pinion.

Weight of my car using standard sized servo, motor cooler, 0.8mm bodyshell,shorty lipo and including transponder comes to 1365g. Could probably loose a few grams with neater/shorter wiring.

Yes dots mean degrees, so your toe in/out is correct.

Hope this helps. Overall am very pleased with this car, kit built well,good quality parts, worked well with kit setup. Running it as 17.5T blinky, easily as good as my S411, probably better.
Thanks! Helps a lot.
The only issue might be the weight. I'm thinking of using this LiPo http://www.cs-shop.de/Lipo+7-4V+4000...EGAL+2011-.htm.
Weight 211-229gr. Your shorty LiPo will probably weigh between 200 and 210gr? So I would have to add about 10gr. That would be a total of about 1,375gr. For sure not to my liking.
Using lightweight body LTCR might shave off a bit, but I don't know how much.
Servo is Sanwa SDX-801 Low Profile Digital Servo. It weighs 50gr. Would like to know what yours weighs. Maybe again can shave of a few grams than.
I want to get to 1,350gr as close as possible! Why? Because everyone else does and can.
I have to reconsider buying this car.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:56 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Which spurs fit for this car?
I´m using a Kimbrough 72t 48p. I had to widen a couple of holes (one on each side) to reach the rear motor screw. Running 13.5t blinky class. The ARC r10 uses three screws to fasten the spur. You´ll want to look for that on the spurs, maybe those with six holes in the centre (?). I had some 3Racing spurs, but they don´t fit.

Allso tried the Xray spurs (very good fitment), but the smalles I´we found of those is 78p.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:28 AM   #86
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Shorty lipo is Thunder Power 3800, weight 202g. Servo is Savox 1258 weight 56g.
Might find weight saving on esc? Mine is Cirtix stock club race.
RW xray spurs 48dp as low as 64T from rc-direct.
Give this car a go, don't think you will be disappointed.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:44 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edam Racer View Post
Shorty lipo is Thunder Power 3800, weight 202g. Servo is Savox 1258 weight 56g.
Might find weight saving on esc? Mine is Cirtix stock club race.
RW xray spurs 48dp as low as 64T from rc-direct.
Give this car a go, don't think you will be disappointed.
My ESC is also SP Cirtix. No gain there.
Weight remains an issue.
The only way might be the light weight body. Don't know how much that would shave off. I think the light weight body is more of a cg issue.

I'm not sure in what direction to point my money at.
ARC R10 has gone down on the list, because of the weight issue, but is still an option.

As to weight only one car is king nowadays and that is the Corally HMX:
http://www.corally.co.uk/
and scroll down please.

And yes, I know, it comes with a price tag.

But I wouldn't be surprised if regulations were going to be changed in the near future into again lighter cars. I heard of 1,325gr some time ago.
It is more to my liking to add weight to get the car up to 1,350gr. The weight can also be used as a tuning aid in doing so.

Last edited by Kensei; 07-10-2012 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:55 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
No worry about the servo mount screw. It will not touch the ground to cause any issue when concerning. I thought the same when building this car.

For the flex, i think this car is designed for modified motor. They have just released the flex chassis aiming for stock racers.

I measured the weight of this car in four corners. Very precious in the weight distribution It is prefect front and rear 50/50. Very small different on L and R. I think we all use different electronics.

Yes, I agree the build quality is very good this car. No exceed play and still smooth, no shim needed. Plastic is high grade. I have no one part that needs replace or broken so far. I have T3 2012, 411, BD5 and TC 6.1. The worst build quality is TC6.1 then 411 then BD5 and the best is T3. This car has T3 build quality level. And their gear diff is so smooth and light weight so far no gear strapping I run 4.5T for over 100packs batteries.

For the performance of what I own:

T3 is the slowest. T3 if you want to make this car turn faster the rear end is not staple. Check it on the TITC 2012 video, Meen's car spinning many times even he used special design chassis. Really something wrong on this car on the design.
After the T3 2012 experience, I changed to 411
411 is runs faster then T3 while able to keep the rear end tight but 411 front is too wide and making the steering reacting is too slow.
then I changed to BD5
BD5 is very good in performance, car is willing to turn and turns fast while keeping the rear staple. This is one best car. Only the down side is the parts are expensive.
then brought tc6.1 for fun ( i didn't expect this car can be as good as bd5)
I was surprised TC 6.1 is at that good performance. Car turns fast and following your steering input. When you overshoot turns then u turning more on the steering wheel. The car just spin/slide a little to back to the right direction while all in controllable.The best performance/money can buy but the down side is the build quality is bad. So much play here and there.. Parts not strong enough. It looks strong only not strong as others. Also, I hate the camber link hooking on the shock tower.
then i got R10
While building this car, already notice this has T3 level of build quality. In performance, car runs as good as bd5 and has a little more turn in then bd5 while rear end is keeping staple. The down side is the body holder shims are easy to lose so I change to Xray for this part.


cyanyde, Run it and tell us what you think.
I'm considering this car, but I am a bit confused about the chassis.
Some say in the kit there is the 2.5mm chassisplate glassfibre in between carbon. For more flex.
In this thread it is said a chassisplate has to be bought for stock racing and extra flex.
What's the deal with all of this? If I have to buy an extra chassisplate for stockracing the car is crossed off my list.

Furthermore: need to be as close to 1,350gr as possible. Is it doable with this car? My config is esc sp cirtix, motor sp 13.5MMM, lipo about 220gr, servo 50gr, body LTC-R light weight version.

Anybody know the weight difference between the light weight version and the regular version?
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:13 AM   #89
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I did awesomely bad in the last race... In fact was my worst race outing ever!. Had so much trouble trying to get the rear end to stay put.

Could've been better with more track time but this is definitely not a car for those with limited setup/practice time.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:26 PM   #90
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The standard 2.5mm chassis is perfectly ok for stock racing, you do not have to use the new flex version.

When I first used this car the back was very loose, the same as my S411. I sorted it by lowering the rear ride height by 0.5mm and reducing the shim under the rear outer camber link by 1.00mm. This worked for me, maybe it's my driving style, but I know someone in the UK who raced this car in kit setup in a stock class and first time out missed FTQ by just 0.5 sec and then took overall win.
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