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Old 12-22-2013, 10:10 PM   #781
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Why not just tap the holes of the arms then the droop screws will go in nicely
seriously who does that, oh ya, ME even works on the ball cups.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:20 PM   #782
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small issue I had, when installing a Killshot motor there is only about 1mm of movement for pinion adjustment. I had to use a different end bell to get it to work.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:37 PM   #783
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small issue I had, when installing a Killshot motor there is only about 1mm of movement for pinion adjustment. I had to use a different end bell to get it to work.

I was recently rebuilding a friends car for him, and i did notice with his Killshot that the motors sits very low (using the flex motor bulkhead) make sure to push the motor up away from the chassis to ensure the motor doesnt act like a brace sitting on the chassis.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:58 PM   #784
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What endbell did you use on the Killshot motor? Good to know as I am thinking about getting one of those motors.
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Old 12-22-2013, 11:24 PM   #785
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
small issue I had, when installing a Killshot motor there is only about 1mm of movement for pinion adjustment. I had to use a different end bell to get it to work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
I was recently rebuilding a friends car for him, and i did notice with his Killshot that the motors sits very low (using the flex motor bulkhead) make sure to push the motor up away from the chassis to ensure the motor doesnt act like a brace sitting on the chassis.
I have been using these motors all this past year. They had a flaw when drilling motor endbells. Easy fix! Go to Trinity site and go to contacts. Tell them your endbell is not correct and they will send you a correctly drilled endbell for free! They will mount up to ARC motor mount or new flex motor mount.
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:50 AM   #786
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What endbell did you use on the Killshot motor? Good to know as I am thinking about getting one of those motors.
I used one off a old burnt up d3
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:45 PM   #787
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
Why not just tap the holes of the arms then the droop screws will go in nicely
I seem to do things the harder way. I don't own any taps, and had a larger size droop screw handy, so it was the easier thing to do. I was too lazy to head to a tool store and pick up a tap!

So have any of you tested out different length bellcrank arms on carpet, and what have you found? I tried the standard bellcrank arms and the 20mm ones, and also the 8.5mm rack. So far I have liked the standard length bellcrank arms with the new 8.5mm alloy rack with 3mm shims on the steering links.
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:00 PM   #788
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Does anyone know if ARC and Xray spurs are interchangeable? I'm looking for non-offset spurs that will fit the T4.

-Mike
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:20 PM   #789
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Does anyone know if ARC and Xray spurs are interchangeable? I'm looking for non-offset spurs that will fit the T4.

-Mike
Hi Mike,

The ARC spurs have a recess cut out for the layshaft (very small recess - without measuring, maybe 0.5mm?)

I have tried ARC, Xray and Panaracer spurs on the T4 2014 and they all fit.

HTH.
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:27 PM   #790
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Which big bore springs are included with the new kit? Someone told me the car comes with a full set of springs, didn't think that was correct.

Thanks.
Hey Warren,

Glad youíre considering the ARC.

Iíve been running the ARC non-2013 R10 for about 3 months now. Ran a Top Photon for a couple years where my biggest complaint was not enough front grip. The R10 has plenty. I was lucky to get a good setup from a local racer until he jumped ship to Xray. So Iím the only one running the R10 at my indoor track on med grip carpet 80 x 36 flat ozite track.

Iím super happy with the R10 and have no plans for upgrading. The car handles better than my intermediate driver skills can handle as I canít run it to the carís maximum potential but my car is within a lap of my clubís (and possibly Western Canadaís) top racer in 17.5 blinky TC and just over a lap in Mod TC where Iím using a boosted 5.5t. Happy at least my Mod times are faster than my stock times.

Just a couple of general questions on how you guys attempt to correct these problems and what to look at first. For 17.5 Blinky, my biggest problem is too much mid corner and on power steering out of the corner. I have too much and if I push the car too much I traction roll. Iím using a spool right now but considering testing a 1 million-oil gear diff up front next. Any suggestions and in what order of changes would you consider?

For mod TC, the setup is almost exactly the same except for a 2.5 million gear diff up front and the biggest problem I find is not enough mid corner and out of corning steering (I understeer). If I push it too hard, I find the back end kinda wants to step out. Watching the faster racers in my club, I realize Iím hitting the brakes too late to make the turn. Working on earlier braking helps but what changes and in what order would you try next?

The car is also super durable. Only things I have replaced are the c-hubs and knuckles which wouldn't need replacing if I stop hitting things and the spur gear cause apparently 1 screw was holding the motor! My bad.

Any help is much appreciated and again, Iím super happy with the car.

Ivan
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:12 PM   #791
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Hey Warren,

Glad youíre considering the ARC.

Iíve been running the ARC non-2013 R10 for about 3 months now. Ran a Top Photon for a couple years where my biggest complaint was not enough front grip. The R10 has plenty. I was lucky to get a good setup from a local racer until he jumped ship to Xray. So Iím the only one running the R10 at my indoor track on med grip carpet 80 x 36 flat ozite track.

Iím super happy with the R10 and have no plans for upgrading. The car handles better than my intermediate driver skills can handle as I canít run it to the carís maximum potential but my car is within a lap of my clubís (and possibly Western Canadaís) top racer in 17.5 blinky TC and just over a lap in Mod TC where Iím using a boosted 5.5t. Happy at least my Mod times are faster than my stock times.

Just a couple of general questions on how you guys attempt to correct these problems and what to look at first. For 17.5 Blinky, my biggest problem is too much mid corner and on power steering out of the corner. I have too much and if I push the car too much I traction roll. Iím using a spool right now but considering testing a 1 million-oil gear diff up front next. Any suggestions and in what order of changes would you consider?

For mod TC, the setup is almost exactly the same except for a 2.5 million gear diff up front and the biggest problem I find is not enough mid corner and out of corning steering (I understeer). If I push it too hard, I find the back end kinda wants to step out. Watching the faster racers in my club, I realize Iím hitting the brakes too late to make the turn. Working on earlier braking helps but what changes and in what order would you try next?

The car is also super durable. Only things I have replaced are the c-hubs and knuckles which wouldn't need replacing if I stop hitting things and the spur gear cause apparently 1 screw was holding the motor! My bad.

Any help is much appreciated and again, Iím super happy with the car.

Ivan
hey Ivan, first can I get you to post your stock setup or send it to me via PM, second, are you using the same car for stock and mod? for stock, it could be as simple as a lite coat of C.A. on the edge of the front tire. another option would be to try going to a heavier shock oil, if that works a little but want more try a softer spring. I say these things having never actually driven the car, but that's what worked with my shuie. I am of the opinion that not all cars react the same to the same changes, I know my TOP car didn't like shuie setups or changes.
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:07 PM   #792
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
hey Ivan, first can I get you to post your stock setup or send it to me via PM, second, are you using the same car for stock and mod? for stock, it could be as simple as a lite coat of C.A. on the edge of the front tire. another option would be to try going to a heavier shock oil, if that works a little but want more try a softer spring. I say these things having never actually driven the car, but that's what worked with my shuie. I am of the opinion that not all cars react the same to the same changes, I know my TOP car didn't like shuie setups or changes.
Hi Skypilot,

Thank you for you input and suggestions. My setup is 01.02.2013 Jim Chapman carpet setup: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/arc/...etsARCR10.html

I am using a different car for each class. Also I'm using a speed 6 body.

I thought about the CA trick but for some reason I have a bias against doing that even though I tune that way for my Tamiya Mini and even my 12th scale and both chassis are
very competitive. But ultimately, I feel by doing that, it does take some steering away and hence corner speed and where I find I'm losing some time in those classes. I'm weak in terms of tuning which I want to work on and improve so I think in the future that would be my last resort. But again, know that I appreciate your advice.

Heavier oil is an option I've heard, but not tried yet. I've read a couple of threads on the subject of traction roll where some suggest a harder front setup to keep the car flatter versus a softer front setup to allow the car to roll and absorb the forces. Still confused. Anyone want a go on this topic?

For background, I use SXT 3.0 full sauce rear tires letting soak all the time and the run before I full sauce the front probably 5-6 minutes before I race?), then clean off the tires on run off carpet before I put on track.

For tires, our track allows open tires but I'm using Jaco Blues that were spec tires for our regional series but this year our serious is gonna stick with Sweeps 32's but I haven't tried them yet and most report they are a tad gripper than the Jacos and mostly everyone is using them (some test other tires) but I still have a few more Jaco sets left behind from the old series to burn off. I don't think I'm currently at a disadvantage because I'm using the Jaco's (10-100 runs old until they blow or rip) but no one else is.

Any help or insight is always much appreciated,

Ivan
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:37 PM   #793
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For traction roll I'd suggest:
1. Softer front spring, or lay down shocks
2. Heavier front shock oil
3. Lightweight body
4. Add wheel shims, make the car wider
5. Lower front ride height

The 1M diff fluid will help reduce the on-power steering. You could also try lighter oil in the rear diff.
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Old 12-24-2013, 10:51 PM   #794
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Good to see carpet guys helping each other out! Looking for more setups and advice? Check out ARC facebook page. Go to the pics section is where they have setups posted.
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Old 12-25-2013, 03:44 AM   #795
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Ivan. How much ackerman spacing are you running? If kit 3mm try dropping to 1mm that will make the car far smoother to drive. Also the 8.5mm steering bridge really made the car super smooth.
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