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Old 06-14-2012, 02:48 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by edwardcs View Post
I agree with you. I bought R10 two days ago, have driven it for a few rounds that can't tell whether it can really improve lap time for now, but the cornering performance seems good
How about some piccies with electronics installed?
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:23 AM   #62
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How about some piccies with electronics installed?
U can only imagine with a chassis at 82mm most of ur gear will be hanging out......I thought 88mm was narrow enough......u want one a big fella I know u
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:51 AM   #63
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Neighbour, go back to your pink bits, nothing to see here for you

So, any updates, pics, testimonials etc
Was speaking to a rc aquantance in Asia doing a magazine review for it, had some pretty favourable comments.
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Old 06-19-2012, 03:31 AM   #64
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Some options being released already

http://www.redrc.net/2012/06/arc-r10...-flex-chassis/

I would expect split toe blocks and DCJ Universals to come shortly
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:26 PM   #65
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Have the car with me already.

First thing I noticed is the motor sticks out from the centre line more than my tc6.1 by a good 4mm... That's quite old skool if you ask me.

And the servo mount bracket design makes no sense. Its so low and will definitely scrape the screw on high roll turns.

Its ultra narrow chassis oddly enough does not really flex much. However, what I am extremely impressed with is its precise parts fitment. Everything feels very tight yet free...

Don't know to try this kit or sell it unused as I am not too impressed with its design.
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:11 PM   #66
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Have the car with me already.

First thing I noticed is the motor sticks out from the centre line more than my tc6.1 by a good 4mm... That's quite old skool if you ask me.

And the servo mount bracket design makes no sense. Its so low and will definitely scrape the screw on high roll turns.

Its ultra narrow chassis oddly enough does not really flex much. However, what I am extremely impressed with is its precise parts fitment. Everything feels very tight yet free...

Don't know to try this kit or sell it unused as I am not too impressed with its design.

No worry about the servo mount screw. It will not touch the ground to cause any issue when concerning. I thought the same when building this car.

For the flex, i think this car is designed for modified motor. They have just released the flex chassis aiming for stock racers.

I measured the weight of this car in four corners. Very precious in the weight distribution It is prefect front and rear 50/50. Very small different on L and R. I think we all use different electronics.

Yes, I agree the build quality is very good this car. No exceed play and still smooth, no shim needed. Plastic is high grade. I have no one part that needs replace or broken so far. I have T3 2012, 411, BD5 and TC 6.1. The worst build quality is TC6.1 then 411 then BD5 and the best is T3. This car has T3 build quality level. And their gear diff is so smooth and light weight so far no gear strapping I run 4.5T for over 100packs batteries.

For the performance of what I own:

T3 is the slowest. T3 if you want to make this car turn faster the rear end is not staple. Check it on the TITC 2012 video, Meen's car spinning many times even he used special design chassis. Really something wrong on this car on the design.
After the T3 2012 experience, I changed to 411
411 is runs faster then T3 while able to keep the rear end tight but 411 front is too wide and making the steering reacting is too slow.
then I changed to BD5
BD5 is very good in performance, car is willing to turn and turns fast while keeping the rear staple. This is one best car. Only the down side is the parts are expensive.
then brought tc6.1 for fun ( i didn't expect this car can be as good as bd5)
I was surprised TC 6.1 is at that good performance. Car turns fast and following your steering input. When you overshoot turns then u turning more on the steering wheel. The car just spin/slide a little to back to the right direction while all in controllable.The best performance/money can buy but the down side is the build quality is bad. So much play here and there.. Parts not strong enough. It looks strong only not strong as others. Also, I hate the camber link hooking on the shock tower.
then i got R10
While building this car, already notice this has T3 level of build quality. In performance, car runs as good as bd5 and has a little more turn in then bd5 while rear end is keeping staple. The down side is the body holder shims are easy to lose so I change to Xray for this part.


cyanyde, Run it and tell us what you think.

Last edited by ioxqq; 06-22-2012 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:08 AM   #67
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Ok. Thanks for your input. Will give this car a shot at next weeks race.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:34 PM   #68
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This is what I mean on the T3. "T3 if you want to make this car turn faster the rear end is not staple" T2 and T3 12 are having the same issue (I switched from T2). People may not see it happens on low traction but in good traction surface this happens unless your car is push.

check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9aT8ELN0Lc
at 23 sec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaAOJJ6E6k4
at 52 sec

After starting driving 411 and later cars, I no longer face this kind of thing. So, I'm pretty sure this is T3 design issue.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:45 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
How about some piccies with electronics installed?
Here you go..

Edit: Dunno why some pics are upside down... Its upright on my PC.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-2.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-3.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-4.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-5.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image.jpg  

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Old 06-23-2012, 11:47 PM   #70
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More pics..
Attached Thumbnails
Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-6.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-7.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-8.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-9.jpg   Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-10.jpg  

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Old 06-23-2012, 11:50 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
This is what I mean on the T3. "T3 if you want to make this car turn faster the rear end is not staple" T2 and T3 12 are having the same issue (I switched from T2). People may not see it happens on low traction but in good traction surface this happens unless your car is push.

check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9aT8ELN0Lc
at 23 sec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaAOJJ6E6k4
at 52 sec

After starting driving 411 and later cars, I no longer face this kind of thing. So, I'm pretty sure this is T3 design issue.
Thanks for the links. Btw, how is the wear on the front drive cups? I wonder why its designed without using the C Caps up front with spool.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Titan ARC R10 190mm EP Touring Car-image-1.jpg  
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:59 PM   #72
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How odd to see that much of the battery and servo hanging over the chassis

Per the servo mount, extremely odd that there isnt a countersunk screw there, would make much more sense, and give an extra 2mm of roll clearance.

What motor is that, never seen it before?

And dont worry about no blades in the spool, many cars run spools with no blades, Tamiya, Yokom and HB all run no blades. They tend to break in a crash then bind up the suspension. Proper hardened cups will last you many race meetings without replacement. I remember i raced a Schumacher at one point, you only had to ride a curb and you would split the blade.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:32 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
This is what I mean on the T3. "T3 if you want to make this car turn faster the rear end is not staple" T2 and T3 12 are having the same issue (I switched from T2). People may not see it happens on low traction but in good traction surface this happens unless your car is push.

check it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9aT8ELN0Lc
at 23 sec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaAOJJ6E6k4
at 52 sec

After starting driving 411 and later cars, I no longer face this kind of thing. So, I'm pretty sure this is T3 design issue.
Don't think this is a car issue. I't seems to me this is a rear left tire partly unglued or not properly glued?

I saw many T3's live but never happened something like this (ETS, Euros, different Nationals ...) also my friend's run this car, show them the videos and they never experienced something like this!
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:51 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
How odd to see that much of the battery and servo hanging over the chassis

Per the servo mount, extremely odd that there isnt a countersunk screw there, would make much more sense, and give an extra 2mm of roll clearance.

What motor is that, never seen it before?

And dont worry about no blades in the spool, many cars run spools with no blades, Tamiya, Yokom and HB all run no blades. They tend to break in a crash then bind up the suspension. Proper hardened cups will last you many race meetings without replacement. I remember i raced a Schumacher at one point, you only had to ride a curb and you would split the blade.
Same thoughts here on the servo mount. Will drill to fit a countersunk screw.

I hope the cups will hold.

The motor is a Turnigy 13.5T. Not too popular among racers but I like their stuff.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:09 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by cyanyde View Post
Thanks for the links. Btw, how is the wear on the front drive cups? I wonder why its designed without using the C Caps up front with spool.
I like to use without the C-blade. Using the plastic blade you always need to change it. If you missed to change and created a dent on the alu cup then you must change to new cup. Or you had a crash and broken the blade, say good bye to the alu cup too.

The R10 steel cup has 4 slots that means the life of it last x 2. I ran over 100 packs batteries with 4.5 and still not need to replace the new cup yet. So, what do you prefer. C-blade or no blade.
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