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Old 07-11-2013, 06:15 PM   #556
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Received my ARC R10 2013 on Tuesday. Just about finished with the car. After reading through this thread I thought this car had a weight issue. So far, with everything ready to run minus the esc/battery wires I'm at 1363 grams. LTCR lightweight body, D3.5 13.5, Orion R10 Pro esc, futaba LP servo, Airtronics 471 rx and Thunderpower 65C pack.

As for the build, the only issue I had was the rear susp arms binding. Had to sand a little off the arms. It might be the plastic shims, so I'll switch over to the aluminumum versions. The shocks were easy to build. Didn't have a problem with them.

Another thing I did notice is that the motor mounts higher than compared to my Xray T3'12, probably about .5-.75 mm higher. Also floating servo mount puts my Futaba servo amost 2mm above the chassis. Does the chassis really flex that much to neccesitate a 2 mm gap?

As for the bumper, everything fits but you will have to file down the edge of the top portion of the plastic bumper. Otherwise your body posts will lean forward. I was using the hard bumper on my Xray and may do the same to the ARC and trim down the plastic bumper.

The overall feel is much stiffer compared to my Xray. On the ARC, I had all the top deck screws installed. Even with only the two most forward and two most aft screws in place, it still feels much stiffer. May pick up the thinner deck to try out.

One question though. Was wondering what the little set screw is for towards the end of the servo mount? Is it to relocate the antennae? Maybe I missed it since I was up till 3am building the car. I work the swing shift so I usually wrench a little after I get home from work.

Overall impression: Well, it's obvious it's not an Xray. Everything on the Xray is much more refined. The susp arms are much harder compared to the Xray arms, so if you're prone to hitting the walls, make sure you run the full bumper. Other than that the build went fairly smoothly. Much better than I thought it would go. I am surprised how light the car is out the box though. I'll probably weigh in around 1385-1390 once I add the transponder, cooling fan and wires. I did have a few screws where the hex portion wasn't deep enough so I couldn't get my tool to sit deep enough to get a good bite. But if you've been racing long enough, I'm sure you have an assortment of extra screws. The manual is pretty much straight forward so if you follow the instructions you should have no problem.

This weekend will be my first weekend on the car. Will post a report shortly after.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:35 PM   #557
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Yes the little set screw is for the antenna if you choose to use one! I have removed the first two screws of the layshaft holder and left all other screws on top plate! No its not an xray but it does handle just as good IMO!
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:38 PM   #558
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I always refer to the ARC being to when Xray really cared about the fit and finish of the kits, back in the FK05 and previous days, when bearings didnt wabble in the plastics, when they actually used proper spring steel in all the metal parts etc.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:45 AM   #559
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Ok, I did some testing today with trying mod for the first time with this car. The car is very smooth but I am getting a little on throttle push. I took out the 3* rear suspension bracket and installed the 2.5*. That helped roll the car a little better in the corners but still not getting front bite. Cant seem to get full throw on one side no matter how I install servo horn and link. So I have to reduce the throw on one side to compensate to make it even on both. This could be where the problem is. It was fine in 17.5 class and got plenty of steering but different story in mod. Still had a blast and cant wait to play some more!
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:02 AM   #560
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
Ok, I did some testing today with trying mod for the first time with this car. The car is very smooth but I am getting a little on throttle push. I took out the 3* rear suspension bracket and installed the 2.5*. That helped roll the car a little better in the corners but still not getting front bite. Cant seem to get full throw on one side no matter how I install servo horn and link. So I have to reduce the throw on one side to compensate to make it even on both. This could be where the problem is. It was fine in 17.5 class and got plenty of steering but different story in mod. Still had a blast and cant wait to play some more!
Standard servo horn is really too short. If you spend a lot of time finding the exact angle for the horn that gives maximum lock in both directions you might just be able to get full lock (I was literally at maximum 120% EPA with my Futaba radio to get full lock after lots of bench time).

Easiest solution is to get a longer horn. I have an M's Racing servo horn on a Tamiya Servo Saver (niche product from Japan) which gives me full lock at 90% EPA, this is 20.5mm long.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:44 PM   #561
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Standard servo horn is really too short. If you spend a lot of time finding the exact angle for the horn that gives maximum lock in both directions you might just be able to get full lock (I was literally at maximum 120% EPA with my Futaba radio to get full lock after lots of bench time).

Easiest solution is to get a longer horn. I have an M's Racing servo horn on a Tamiya Servo Saver (niche product from Japan) which gives me full lock at 90% EPA, this is 20.5mm long.
Yeah, I was playing around with a different servo horn a few weeks ago switching mounting holes. I had one that was taller but the link was hitting the top plate, bummer! Im at 120* on one side and 100* on the other. I know its possible to get more steering. Like you said (bench time)! Lol
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:36 PM   #562
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I have two r10 and have had zero issues with achieving max steering throw and my left and right are within 2 percent of each other. I just add the 10 degree angle on the the servo horn as per the instructions.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:08 PM   #563
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I got it. I didn't have instructions since I bought mine used. But no worries I played with some sub trim and servo horn positions and finally got it. Guess I overlooked a few things the first time. Is anybody running gear diff in front? What's your opinion on which is better for mod, spool or diff?
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:06 PM   #564
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Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya View Post
I got it. I didn't have instructions since I bought mine used. But no worries I played with some sub trim and servo horn positions and finally got it. Guess I overlooked a few things the first time. Is anybody running gear diff in front? What's your opinion on which is better for mod, spool or diff?
Spool is by far the most consistent, a few seem to play with heavy putty in the diffs, the cleaning putty is no good for me, when hot the diff is vurtually free spinning. I have seen some use the new Hard Ride diff putty with good success, but i have not tried it yet.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:56 AM   #565
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Has anyone tried the new motor mount layshaft holder that does not get screws installed in top plate? How much more flex does it provide if any?
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:10 PM   #566
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Looking to buy the r10 2013 what servo's can't be used? I am looking at a protek to try it for usvta or maybe 17.5tc
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:09 AM   #567
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Looking to buy the r10 2013 what servo's can't be used? I am looking at a protek to try it for usvta or maybe 17.5tc
Any standard servo, a low profile will give you the most room for your electronics and is probably the most common. I use a Futaba.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #568
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Default Ets Stock

Hi

Any One having setup or/and pictures from Henrik heitsch ARC in the Stock a-main final ?
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:01 PM   #569
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Hi

Any One having setup or/and pictures from Henrik heitsch ARC in the Stock a-main final ?
I have asked the bossman to chase up the setup.

Well done to Henrik, the Stock class looked super close on the vids.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:50 AM   #570
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+1 for ETS Setup.
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