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Old 06-08-2013, 03:40 AM   #466
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Had some free time today & mostly finished the build

Can't believe just how many Xray bits fit into this car...excellent

Kit went together mostly well, certainly good value
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:33 AM   #467
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Had some free time today & mostly finished the build

Can't believe just how many Xray bits fit into this car...excellent

Kit went together mostly well, certainly good value
I know a number of xray drivers using arc parts as they are proving better.

Spool and outdrives. Sway bar ends. Caster blocks knuckles and rear uprights to name a few.
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:47 AM   #468
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So are these ARC and XRAY parts identical? Handy to know, because I've got a broken rear hub right now and XRAY parts are widely available in the UK.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:05 AM   #469
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Ive used X-ray knuckles on my arc in a pinch. They're very close but not identical. If I recall, I had to shim a little as they were a little lose in the c-hubs. Some guys are using the arc rod ends on other chassis, way less slop than most and they stay tight for ever.
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:41 PM   #470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
So are these ARC and XRAY parts identical? Handy to know, because I've got a broken rear hub right now and XRAY parts are widely available in the UK.
Capricorn parts are the same as the ARC, Call CPD Racing as they carry all the spares
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:45 PM   #471
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Is the new R10 2013 version on back order status or can they be purchased now? Where?
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:45 PM   #472
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Hey Johnsen,

Please keep us updated with the results for the new parts. I am very curious to see what differences they will make
Hi

We have now been testing around 3-4 times with the new parts and whau what a car. The car was good before but with the new motor Mount and top plate and the new big bore shocks , it has just improoved the car big time. My av lap times has improoved by 2-3/10 of a second , but more improtant , the driveability is much more easy. In the shocks 4 holes and 40/45 wt front/rear. Tried frist with Stock springs that came with Big bore shock set , but yesterday i put on White front and yellow rear , cut and dremeled Down to fit. Will try the 6 hole pistons next time on the track. Capricorn motor mount is a bit different than Arc new one. Will take some close up pictures. They use No screws in top plate in motor Mount but have a pin between front motor Mount screw and top plate. Gives a little more flex.
Will be back later with pictures of motor mount
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:41 AM   #473
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How much lighter is the car now compared to the old?
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:23 PM   #474
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Ran my ARC for the first time on Sunday - It was crap.

I ran kit settings but with HPI silver springs and 350wt oil.

The problem I had all day was its on power (with steering) sudden break aways of traction.

I was running modified, so a lot of power going through the car. Now the track is fairly small (www.wlrc.co.uk) and grip is low to medium.

The changes I made consisted of :
Diff oil -1k to 3k
Droop - 6/5, 5/4
Roll centres (pivot blocks) - 1mm all round , .5 all round
Rear Camber Link, Medium link, 4/3 , 3/3
Removing some rear top deck screws ....

Nothing helped, didn't get worse, just never improved and I didn't even feel the change.

I'm 1 lap and a bit off my previous best time, 19/311 (although I was on for a 19 305 but put it on its roof) with the ARC on Sunday to 20 308 with my HB TCX.

The only thing I'm thinking the car is too stiff for modified for low to medium grip conditions.

Would split blocks alone make much difference? The problem is quite bad, undriveable actually if pushed too much.

Or do I just raid the piggy bank and buy the 2.25 chassis now(assuming that would make the biggest difference) now that I've tried the 2.5.... I guess i'm trying to avoid this.

Other suggestions was to drill the shock pistons out to 1.1 or 1.2 ( I ran 1.1 on my TCX too)

Also to change the rear camber link hole to the longer one but its in a forward position that changes the angle of the link that gives me more traction?

Off power the car wasn't bad, plenty of steering. Just any sort of steering on power approaching the next corner bit my arm off.

Sorry if this post is all over the place, typing it on my phone.

Any suggestions much appreciated. I'm super impatient when my car doesn't work straight out the box

Last edited by steveonamission; 06-10-2013 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:06 PM   #475
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The R10 is pretty twichy out of the box in low grip. Here's what I did to calm it down, in order, one adjustment at a time:

1 - reduce ackeman shims to 1mm (kits are 3mm I think) so you're adding ackeman
2 - 5/5 droop (5.4/5 if you want more on power steering)
3 - move the battery forward as far as possible
4 - green front / blue rear springs (don't be afraid to lay the rears down if needed)
5 - shock oil to 450F-400R

The most significant setup change for me was the ackerman adjustment. Once I'd made all of the above changes the car became very drivable in low grip, corner speed was still good. Hope this helps.

Jim C.
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:02 AM   #476
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I forgot to mention I had already started with 1mm of ackerman, just so the turnbuckles where level and gave me a linear steering feel.

It might be that the rear can't keep up with the front but I was already pretty close to your suggestions I think. I appreciate them though.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:20 AM   #477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
Ran my ARC for the first time on Sunday - It was crap.

I ran kit settings but with HPI silver springs and 350wt oil.

The problem I had all day was its on power (with steering) sudden break aways of traction.

I was running modified, so a lot of power going through the car. Now the track is fairly small (www.wlrc.co.uk) and grip is low to medium.

The changes I made consisted of :
Diff oil -1k to 3k
Droop - 6/5, 5/4
Roll centres (pivot blocks) - 1mm all round , .5 all round
Rear Camber Link, Medium link, 4/3 , 3/3
Removing some rear top deck screws ....

Nothing helped, didn't get worse, just never improved and I didn't even feel the change.

I'm 1 lap and a bit off my previous best time, 19/311 (although I was on for a 19 305 but put it on its roof) with the ARC on Sunday to 20 308 with my HB TCX.

The only thing I'm thinking the car is too stiff for modified for low to medium grip conditions.

Would split blocks alone make much difference? The problem is quite bad, undriveable actually if pushed too much.

Or do I just raid the piggy bank and buy the 2.25 chassis now(assuming that would make the biggest difference) now that I've tried the 2.5.... I guess i'm trying to avoid this.

Other suggestions was to drill the shock pistons out to 1.1 or 1.2 ( I ran 1.1 on my TCX too)

Also to change the rear camber link hole to the longer one but its in a forward position that changes the angle of the link that gives me more traction?

Off power the car wasn't bad, plenty of steering. Just any sort of steering on power approaching the next corner bit my arm off.

Sorry if this post is all over the place, typing it on my phone.

Any suggestions much appreciated. I'm super impatient when my car doesn't work straight out the box
Log into Facebook, look for a group called ARC driver. My Name on there is Bradd Vercoe, i posted a setup that worked really well on low grip asphalt.

Basically, move lower shock inwards, no sway bars, longer rear wheelbase, long front link, med rear link.

I had some pretty good success with the kit chassis with it.

Im sure we can get your first bad impressions turned around.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:23 AM   #478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
Ran my ARC for the first time on Sunday - It was crap.

I ran kit settings but with HPI silver springs and 350wt oil.

The problem I had all day was its on power (with steering) sudden break aways of traction.

I was running modified, so a lot of power going through the car. Now the track is fairly small (www.wlrc.co.uk) and grip is low to medium.

The changes I made consisted of :
Diff oil -1k to 3k
Droop - 6/5, 5/4
Roll centres (pivot blocks) - 1mm all round , .5 all round
Rear Camber Link, Medium link, 4/3 , 3/3
Removing some rear top deck screws ....

Nothing helped, didn't get worse, just never improved and I didn't even feel the change.

I'm 1 lap and a bit off my previous best time, 19/311 (although I was on for a 19 305 but put it on its roof) with the ARC on Sunday to 20 308 with my HB TCX.

The only thing I'm thinking the car is too stiff for modified for low to medium grip conditions.

Would split blocks alone make much difference? The problem is quite bad, undriveable actually if pushed too much.

Or do I just raid the piggy bank and buy the 2.25 chassis now(assuming that would make the biggest difference) now that I've tried the 2.5.... I guess i'm trying to avoid this.

Other suggestions was to drill the shock pistons out to 1.1 or 1.2 ( I ran 1.1 on my TCX too)

Also to change the rear camber link hole to the longer one but its in a forward position that changes the angle of the link that gives me more traction?

Off power the car wasn't bad, plenty of steering. Just any sort of steering on power approaching the next corner bit my arm off.

Sorry if this post is all over the place, typing it on my phone.

Any suggestions much appreciated. I'm super impatient when my car doesn't work straight out the box
Your car is rolling too much, too soon and not putting pressure on the tyres resulting in the oversteer on power with steering lock.

Try 450cst oil front and rear. It will slow down the weight transfer and put more pressure on the tyres sooner.

I had the exact same problem with my T4.
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:30 AM   #479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
Log into Facebook, look for a group called ARC driver. My Name on there is Bradd Vercoe, i posted a setup that worked really well on low grip asphalt.

Basically, move lower shock inwards, no sway bars, longer rear wheelbase, long front link, med rear link.

I had some pretty good success with the kit chassis with it.

Im sure we can get your first bad impressions turned around.
I'll check it out, although I'm a little sceptical about removing roll bars, it's not that low a grip and I still feel I need to control the roll of the car, don't want it rolling too much - Surely it will hurt my laptime ? Not going against your advice, just wouldn't be my next move.

Longer rear wheelbase could be a good move though! Before the start of a qualifier, I was doing little figure of eights to see how much traction I had and even at this lower speed it looked like I had a really short wheel base and the rear was rotating so fast. Almost like the rear wheels where lifting off, or that feeling if your rear wheels have wet additive on. Not good.
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:33 AM   #480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontfeelcold View Post
Your car is rolling too much, too soon and not putting pressure on the tyres resulting in the oversteer on power with steering lock.

Try 450cst oil front and rear. It will slow down the weight transfer and put more pressure on the tyres sooner.

I had the exact same problem with my T4.
OK I will defiantly go up on shock oil then, now that you and Jim C have mentioned it.

Although what was very worrying is I tried new tyres in the hope that the tyres I was using that where around 20 runs old where causing the problem. Came off the track and my shell was covered in rubber, looked like I had been running foams, and consequently these now 1 run old tyres looked like they have had atleast 10 runs on them and no help to handling. The track is not abrasive either, usually still see the centre line at least after 1 run. So isn't this showing the tyres are working super hard?

All other suggestions most welcome and thanks so far.
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