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Old 11-15-2014, 03:35 PM   #211
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Now in the new GT flavour. Coming soon in Mardave and Zen.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:05 AM   #212
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Thanks for the overview, I am curious what you think of the weight and stiffness trade between the S1 vs the gr/ep chassis' options?
I can't really comment on that. I'm involved with organising and running events for the class in the UK and developing/maintaining the rulebook, but my race class is 'proper' 1/12 scale. I don't drive GT12 regularly at the moment.
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Old 11-17-2014, 12:54 PM   #213
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I can't really comment on that. I'm involved with organising and running events for the class in the UK and developing/maintaining the rulebook, but my race class is 'proper' 1/12 scale. I don't drive GT12 regularly at the moment.
The S1 chassis on the original SS was not a problem. With the new design of the GT there will be less tendency to grip-roll, so it's likely that the S1 car will be fine on club tracks with lower grip.

The CF car will come into its own when the grip comes up. If you usually drive on a little0used carpet then the S1 car will be fine.

I think the choice is down to your driving skill and what you want to race. For new drivers at a club I would recommend the S1 car. Once it has been driven on a high-grip track and you can prove that you are losing out big time to a CF chassis, just buy the CF as an upgrade.

The most important item to a good-handling car is the diff, not the chassis. It's 30 in the UK for a diff, and I think the CF chassis is 35. Not sure what that would be in the US, but whichever way you go choose the diff first and the chassis second. HTH
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:13 AM   #214
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I bought the CF chassis GT. It will be fun to figure out where to put the needed weight. That means more testing and track time!
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Old 11-18-2014, 01:02 PM   #215
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Get the 30g weight that attaches to the rear pod. It works a treat to balance the pod and leaves you with about 25g to play with in the chassis.
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:20 PM   #216
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I bought the CF chassis GT. It will be fun to figure out where to put the needed weight. That means more testing and track time!
Any video's of the GT12's running at your club?
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:48 PM   #217
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Any video's of the GT12's running at your club?
I'll try to get some next weekend.
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:49 PM   #218
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Get the 30g weight that attaches to the rear pod. It works a treat to balance the pod and leaves you with about 25g to play with in the chassis.
Done
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Old 11-19-2014, 04:44 PM   #219
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Any video's of the GT12's running at your club?
We'll get you something. You might find it quite amusing.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #220
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Originally Posted by Mark Stiles View Post
I can't really comment on that. I'm involved with organising and running events for the class in the UK and developing/maintaining the rulebook, but my race class is 'proper' 1/12 scale. I don't drive GT12 regularly at the moment.
Ah, ok then. thanks for the reply
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:30 PM   #221
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The S1 chassis on the original SS was not a problem. With the new design of the GT there will be less tendency to grip-roll, so it's likely that the S1 car will be fine on club tracks with lower grip.

The CF car will come into its own when the grip comes up. If you usually drive on a little0used carpet then the S1 car will be fine.

I think the choice is down to your driving skill and what you want to race. For new drivers at a club I would recommend the S1 car. Once it has been driven on a high-grip track and you can prove that you are losing out big time to a CF chassis, just buy the CF as an upgrade.

The most important item to a good-handling car is the diff, not the chassis. It's 30 in the UK for a diff, and I think the CF chassis is 35. Not sure what that would be in the US, but whichever way you go choose the diff first and the chassis second. HTH
ok, thanks, that makes sense. weight is less of a concern but stiffness is noticeable on higher grip conditions. my local track (TQ in Chino, CA) does produce pretty high traction.

if i were to run one of these it would be for exhibition (nobody else has one yet that i know of) so the preferred behavior would be stable, controlled and fast enough to be interesting. stormer had the S1 w/diff in stock but now its out of stock and the CF w/o diff and diff upgrade are in stock. so
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:25 AM   #222
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if i were to run one of these it would be for exhibition (nobody else has one yet that i know of)...
That's what celt and I said 8 weeks ago. Now it'll be a 2 heat class. Next month, more.
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:52 PM   #223
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if i were to run one of these it would be for exhibition (nobody else has one yet that i know of)... That's what celt and I said 8 weeks ago. Now it'll be a 2 heat class. Next month, more.
I'm counting anywhere from ten to twelve this Sunday.
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Old 11-28-2014, 08:12 AM   #224
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This is an original SupaStox with servo mount holes drilled in the GT most forward location, so they match. Then I thought what about a low profile horizontal mount. I had a nice micro servo and some mini mounting plates and FGX servo mounts. Imagine what this would look like with a proper low profile servo and some nice Exotek F1R2 servo mounts. There is now enough open real estate to mount the ESC any way you want.





I inverted the ball studs on the steering arms and the servo saver. I also moved the ballstuds to the outer holes removed the spacers from the servo saver. The arms are now parallel to the ground under load and angled slightly forward for Ackerman. No binding to be found.

***If you did this with an actual low profile servo, you will need to drill 2 new holes or add shims under the servo tabs to fit a mini servo, about 5mm for JR3650 my 12th scale servo of choice. The servo in the picture is an experimental unit I thought might be strong enough for this chassis: Turnigy 210.
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Old 12-20-2014, 05:35 PM   #225
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It's possible to use 64pitch gear & pinion in the Supastox GT?
If yes what size can be use.

Thank you, Alain.
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