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Old 11-12-2014, 11:50 AM   #196
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What the meaning of "Understeer" is perhaps
Thanks for catching that. I want less steering and actually meant oversteer. I'm having one of those warp speed thought days. Normally the cars are very neutral and not tricky at all to drive.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:35 PM   #197
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Thanks for catching that. I want less steering and actually meant oversteer. I'm having one of those warp speed thought days. Normally the cars are very neutral and not tricky at all to drive.
I've heard the Brits run lots of weight to get them balanced
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:54 PM   #198
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I've heard the Brits run lots of weight to get them balanced
They have a 30G pod balancing counterweight on the new GT. Compound that with 26mm wide foam tires and it makes for interesting racing when traction goes through the roof. Might have to go with the stiffest springs and glue some of the outside edge of the fronts. I've already set front droop to .5mm or less, but need to try it.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:56 AM   #199
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Holy Diet Batman!

Weighed my new car last night without the damper kit, counter weight and PTX and was only.... 100g underweight. I better feed the little monster some Tungsten Carbide.


One thing I noticed everyone's car doing was when traction came up, even with red front springs, the car pivoted around the nose causing massive oversteer. Even with no front additive and 50/60 fronts traction rolling was starting to become an issue. Dialing out steering was almost impossible.

What are we not understanding?
The roll-damper kit should calm it down a lot when the grip is high. Ride-height at 3mm and get the shell as low as you can. And true the tyres down.
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Old 11-13-2014, 08:52 AM   #200
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The roll-damper kit should calm it down a lot when the grip is high. Ride-height at 3mm and get the shell as low as you can. And true the tyres down.
Thanks Dale. Damper kit is going on tonight, it arrived yesterday. I can't wait to try it out this weekend. I switched to red springs up front and am switching to 50 shore fronts. The body is at 4mm front and sides and ride height is at 3.5mm all around. Any lower and the body drags in high speed corners. We haven't been truing tires yet as most are seeing it as being unsportsmanlike. I do know the benefits of truing as seen on my WGT and 12th LMP cars, but for our club racing I'm not so concerned.

It still blows my mind that for $400 USD, a can of paint or 3, a receiver and some battery lugs I can build a totally tricked out RC car capable of running at the front of the pack. That's the kit, the hop ups I wanted or felt I needed, motor, esc, servo and battery in a box ready to assemble (assembled now). It takes more than $400 to make a mini race ready, not including the servo and battery and you're still running the boxed ESC and Mabuchi motor. Most chassis alone are more than $400. AMAZING! I've seen $800 minis. Why?

Yes, the box stock kit with locked diff and the 17.5 with the hotrod coupe bodies should be the spec novice class everywhere. That drops the total cost of ownership to $300: No diff, no damper kit, no alloy axle right out of the box. The cars at 1S 17.5 blinky speeds would be just about bulletproof.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:01 AM   #201
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Yes, the box stock kit with locked diff and the 17.5 with the hotrod coupe bodies should be the spec novice class everywhere. That drops the total cost of ownership to $300: No diff, no damper kit, no alloy axle right out of the box. The cars at 1S 17.5 blinky speeds would be just about bulletproof.
This topic came up last Sunday. It would be cool to see a class like this once GT12 is well established. It would make a great class for slower paced racing and it would give a place to start with ease of transition to GT12 if desired.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:23 PM   #202
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On the grip roll front, this might help. I wrote it up to show the majority of the top runners in the UK get a car that handles...
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File Type: doc GT12 front wheel prep v1.1 121114.doc (136.5 KB, 313 views)
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:46 PM   #203
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On the grip roll front, this might help. I wrote it up to show the majority of the top runners in the UK get a car that handles...
Thanks, great write up. I've done it for other classes, time to get with the program!
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:09 PM   #204
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All ready to roll. Primary, backup and backup's backup.
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:13 PM   #205
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On the grip roll front, this might help. I wrote it up to show the majority of the top runners in the UK get a car that handles...
SlowOne thanks for posting your tips. I'm not very smooth on the steering wheel so I need CA to help me from traction rolling.
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:24 AM   #206
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post

Yes, the box stock kit with locked diff and the 17.5 with the hotrod coupe bodies should be the spec novice class everywhere. That drops the total cost of ownership to $300: No diff, no damper kit, no alloy axle right out of the box. The cars at 1S 17.5 blinky speeds would be just about bulletproof.
The BRCA GT12 rules actually partly cater for this already, since there is a separate class (ProductionCup) defined for 17.5 motors. Not many people actually run it, but it's designed to make the cars slower and more easily manageable for novice drivers at clubs.

ProductionCup was initially defined for a 'locked diff' or 'solid axle', but it was felt that putting a diff in the cars makes them much nicer and easier to drive, so it was a worthwhile inclusion for the extra $30 or so. It was also a 'box standard' class originally, with very limited upgrades and replacement parts allowed. However, it was noted that this would then prohibit newcomers from picking up and using a 2nd hand car that had been used in the SuperCup class. So we changed ProductionCup to effectively have the same construction rules as SuperCup, just with slower motors. That change was made about 9 months ago.

It any case, GT12 in one form or another is the perfect entry level class!
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:47 AM   #207
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The BRCA GT12 rules actually partly cater for this already, since there is a separate class (ProductionCup) defined for 17.5 motors. Not many people actually run it, but it's designed to make the cars slower and more easily manageable for novice drivers at clubs.

ProductionCup was initially defined for a 'locked diff' or 'solid axle', but it was felt that putting a diff in the cars makes them much nicer and easier to drive, so it was a worthwhile inclusion for the extra $30 or so. It was also a 'box standard' class originally, with very limited upgrades and replacement parts allowed. However, it was noted that this would then prohibit newcomers from picking up and using a 2nd hand car that had been used in the SuperCup class. So we changed ProductionCup to effectively have the same construction rules as SuperCup, just with slower motors. That change was made about 9 months ago.

It any case, GT12 in one form or another is the perfect entry level class!
Thanks for the correction Mark!
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:52 AM   #208
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All ready to roll. Primary, backup and backup's backup.
For crying out loud John, get some help...

I'll take two!
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Old 11-15-2014, 02:14 PM   #209
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The BRCA GT12 rules actually partly cater for this already, since there is a separate class (ProductionCup) defined for 17.5 motors. Not many people actually run it, but it's designed to make the cars slower and more easily manageable for novice drivers at clubs.

ProductionCup was initially defined for a 'locked diff' or 'solid axle', but it was felt that putting a diff in the cars makes them much nicer and easier to drive, so it was a worthwhile inclusion for the extra $30 or so. It was also a 'box standard' class originally, with very limited upgrades and replacement parts allowed. However, it was noted that this would then prohibit newcomers from picking up and using a 2nd hand car that had been used in the SuperCup class. So we changed ProductionCup to effectively have the same construction rules as SuperCup, just with slower motors. That change was made about 9 months ago.

It any case, GT12 in one form or another is the perfect entry level class!
Thanks for the overview, I am curious what you think of the weight and stiffness trade between the S1 vs the gr/ep chassis' options?
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Old 11-15-2014, 03:32 PM   #210
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For crying out loud John, get some help...

I'll take two!
Um, don't you have at least 4?
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