BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

.75 eccentric suspension holders, most guys do the Rear aluminum hub carriers and the front aluminum Caster Blocks, the battery strap is kool if you dont like the tap method get the shock rebuild oring kit that has the purple orings, as i think the kti comes with the black orings, the purple orings seem to have less friction on the shock shaft letting it more freely, but not exactly usre what comes with the kit, and if you are racing with foam tires, you have to grind away part of the rear arms to make the 28mm foam tires to fit, as teh FK05 was designed in mind for the asphault with 26mm rubber tires

jamie814340

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,
Im looking at running mod i wanna buy a 10x2 but i dont know what motor i should buy can you tell me what you guys are running?

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

7-9x1

jamie814340

iTrader: (3)

What about brand?

Blin

Hi guys !

Can any of you answer this question : do the LRP (or Nosram) VTEC 3800 Fat boy fit in the T1 FK'05 (2,5 mm chassis) ?

My battery slots are normaly filled.

Thanks.

the_barbarian

iTrader: (3)

yes they do i use IB3800s and they fit just fine

Blin

Message to the barbarian...

Thanks for your quick answer.

I'm happy to see some people who still show interest for the wonderfull T1 FK'05.

Cheers.

miamifanatic

iTrader: (4)

what is the ratio on the fko5 is it 1.7 like the t2 or is it the 1.77 like the fk04 just picked up a fko5 for asphalt need to know thanks

kyle "hitawall"

iTrader: (10)

it is 1.7 like the t2

MadMikeB

Howdy,

I'm currently building an FK'05. I'm having trouble with the rear suspension binding. One side is fine, but on the other side, as soon as I tighten the bolts which fasten the plastic caps which hold the hinge pin to the bulkhead I'm finding that the arm binds and does not move freely. The only way I can get free movement is to back off those bolts to the point where I am sure they will vibrate out. I would be very grateful for any suggestions.

Mike

miamifanatic

iTrader: (4)

thanks kyle

the_barbarian

iTrader: (3)

the fk05 is a better car IMO then the T2 tweaker

MadMike with your binding problem

try tighening the allen screw while holding the plastic part in place

it will work its way free after a few runs anyway

whats most likley happening is when your tightening it the plastic part is twisting out of alignment

94_snake

iTrader: (9)

Or unless it is a new kit, the hinge pin itself may be bent and always putting pressure on the arm.

Joep

Just make the arm a little less wide. Problem solved.

MadMikeB

Guys,

Thanks for all that helpful info. It is a new kit and the hinge pin is definitely not bent. Actually, looking at the design, I believe it looks almost certain to bind particularly if you run a rear toe-in shim. Hmmmmm not impressed so far.

OK, I will try the following in order:

1. Try to hold the blocks as I tighten the screws.
2. Rotate the toe-in shim so that the opening is toward the front. Maybe this will allow the toe-in shim arms to "splay" as I tighten the screw allowing the rear block to align with the hinge pin better
3. Trim the arms off the shim.

Assuming none of the above help, should I just continue with the build and assume it will all be OK, or should I take more drastic steps at this early stage to address the problem?

Again, I'm grateful for the input.

Mike