HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Hey Guys. Take a peek at it. Any Suggestions will be welcome. Thanks.. http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/xform...3&setup=t1fk05

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

nice chassis. I liked the fact that's it's milled in the areas. Also great price!

teamgp

I noticed two things right away. Your rear diff is probably too tight and you have way too much rear toe-in for carpet/foam racing. The car probably needed the 3 degrees of toe-in to keep the rear stable with the tight diff.

Loosen your rear diff and try using 2 degrees of rear toe-in first. Then move down in increments of .5 degrees on the rear toe, until the rear not only rotates around the corners well, but starts to abruptly loose traction at times. Then go back to the prior toe-in setting where the rear rotated well, but never broke traction. You may need to increase your rear droop to 3mm over ride height as well to keep the rear inner wheel on the ground. Here's a post where I explained how to set the rear diff:

http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewt...?p=23909#23909

Having the rear diff too tight is becoming a common theme for many FK05 owners racing in medium to high grip situations with both rubbers and foams. The FK05 is very light in the rear and therefore the diff needs to be as loose as possible without having the pulley slip under power (which you can hear).

Another issue some may have that I've come to realize myself is that the rear diff is either built incorrectly or it has become too dirty for smooth & non-grainy action. I've actually built mine with only one bearing inside, instead of two. Then I had to tighten it too much in order to get the pulley to keep from slipping under power, since the pulley wasn't firmly seated. Even though I immediately noticed that I had to tighten it up to a medium setting, I overlooked it and had to make several setup changes to keep the rear in check. These changes included increasing the rear toe-in.

gee-dub

iTrader: (1)

as a side note to the above post, pay attention to the thrust washer size when you're rebuilding the diff. the washers are different sizes (albeit a .2mm difference), and it makes a difference. i had to tear the rear apart (again) to fix this after a rebuild because i did not notice until tightening it up for track use.

teamgp

Thanks! I certainly hadn't noticed that one, but I've never taken the thrust assembly out. To clean it, I spray it well with motor cleaner through the adjustment hole on the side, blow it out with compressed air, lift the thrust assembly up slightly to where I can see the bearing through the hole and then "inject" the diff grease into the hole.

goop

iTrader: (2)

on your setup i noticed a couple of things i would change. first your droop setting is fine i wouldnt change it. 2- i would run the 4.5 degree c hubs. 3- i would run 30front and 25 rear springs. 4-i would run the xray 30 wt oil front and rear, front 3 hole pistons rear 2 hole pistons. 5-you have too much rear toe i would go tho 1.5 maybe even 1 depending on bite. 6-run cyan front and magenta rear. tan in the rear is for high bite conditions and helps free up the rear of the car. 7- put your diff in the middle helps with mid and exit steering. 8-go to the #2 hole for the bottom of the rear shocks. also i would replace all the medium plastic with the hard stuff as the medium stuff flexes and slows you down in the corners. hope this helps

brians11

iTrader: (40)

thats a good idea guy... and woulda saved me some frustration a couple weeks ago... lol

HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

Thanks Teamgp & Goop. I appreciate your help and knowledge. I will try some of those ideas and let you guys know how I make out.

teamgp

If you have problems with over or under steer when testing the changes at the track, take note and let us know exactly what the circumstances were. Here are the main area's:

* Tight corners
==> off power at entry
==> transitioning from off to on power at apex
==> on power at exit
==> second or third apex of chicanes
* Sweepers
==> on power at entry (at the end of straights)
==> on power at exit (preceeding straights)

motorhead

if anyone can help i have xray o5 and i dont have any hudy set up tools
my main thing i need drop gage will other work? like t4c DG or losi dg

please let me know or were i can get what i need

thanks

Steve Bahnatka

iTrader: (5)

get a droop and ride height

UnderDaHill

I use two of the trinity blue aluminum ones. I get my ride height all set with one. THen I put one under each side and raise it up and push them under further to get my desired droop. Then I set the droop screws so both tires just barely lift... usually they are still touching and I just make sure they are both equaly as easy to rotate.

If I'm running ZERO front droop, after I have the back set I put the car on a set of scales. I tighten the front droop screw until that corners weight starts to go down (droop screw is lifting tire) then I back it off just to the point I get back to the weight I had started with. THen I do the other side.

It's not the best method but works.

HRCRACER123

iTrader: (33)

You really dont need a droop gauge. I do beleive the one for the TC3 will work though.

I use the Millimeters above ride height teqnique. I just set my ride height lets say at like 5mm all around. Then I slide the ride height gauge under the back of the chassis and holding down one rear tire at a time lift up from the shock tower and slide it under for your desired droop. So pretty much of you want 2mm above ride height then when you lifted up the chassis and slid the ride height geight gauge under ther you would want it to read 7mm. Then of course I do the front. Usually 2 mm above ride height is a good starting point.

teamgp

If you use this method, make sure you check for chassis and spring tweak first. Although without disassembling the car or using droop blocks its hard to check for chassis tweak. And without also making sure the dowstop screws are set equally with the blocks/gauge its hard to check correctly for spring tweak (unequal top spring collar settings based on weight distribution at each end of the car).

You'll find your setups being a lot more consistent from week to week and in between runs if you get used to periodically checking for spring/chassis tweak and unequal downstop settings. Especially after hitting anything on the track, or changing suspension parts or ride height. Check out this article on pre-race alignment & setup tips:

http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/viewt...?p=22164#22164

Anyone else willing to take the time to writeup articles, please send them to [email protected] for publishing.

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

dude, I hadn't been to the xray forums for a while, great article!!