U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
 

The old "U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing" thread can be accessed here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...am-racing.html

Thanks everyone!

Thank you IBLib.

The first thing that anybody should know about U.S. Vintage Trans Am is where to find the rules.
Click here to see the official U.S. VTA Rules web page. It should look similar to what you see below.
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...les-header.png
Trans Am Class Rules and Specifications: as of
1-1-2017

Body Specifications:
Late '60s to early '70s American pony car Vintage Trans-Am bodies only.

RJ Speed (aka. Bolink) part numbers:
1. #1054 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro (was Bolink PN BL2262)
2. #1055 - 1965 Ford Mustang (was Bolink PN BL2263)

HPI part numbers:
3. #17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
4. #7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
5. #17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
6. #17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
7. #17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
8. #104926 - 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY
9. #17546 - 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (scale wing ok)
10. #105106 - 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER BODY

McAllister Racing part numbers:
11. #286- 1969 Ford Mustang body
12. #295- 1970 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am body- 1/10- 200mm
13. #304- 1970 Chevrolet Camaro SS body- 1/10- 200mm
14. #305- 1968 Mercury Cougar body- 1/10- 200mm

For the HPI and Bolink/RJ Speed Mustangs and McAllister Cougar which are not provided with a spoiler:
A lexan spoiler of 16mm total height from trunk deck, and overall chord of 20mm is allowable. All other bodies must use the spoiler included with that specific body set as intended. Built in spoilers may not be enhanced.

Parma part numbers:
15. #10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
16. #10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
17. #10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
18. #PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS (aka. Chaparral)
19. #PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda (aka. 'Big Fish')
20. #PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang (aka. 'Mach Racer')

Protoform part numbers:
21. #1526-00 - J71 (Rendition of 1971 AMC Javelin)
22. #1535-30 - 1971 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am
23. #1552-40 - 1971 Chevrolet Camaro

Wings or Spoilers: Body provided deck lid spoilers allowed (not wings). No additional skirts or raised/extended wings or air control surfaces allowed unless specified by these rules. Body must be trimmed at body trim lines. Front spoiler may be extended into body to provide durability. Full rear bumper required. It is highly preferred that bodies are detailed in race type livery in period-correct paint schemes. Fluorescent colors, wild graphics, chromes and non-period correct paint schemes are frowned upon. All cars must have a number on the hood, both doors and trunk lid. Wheel covers of any type are NOT allowed.

Driver Figures: All cars must include a driver figure consisting of at least a head and shoulders.

Driver Figure part numbers (ANY suitable 1/10 driver figure is legal - these are readily available examples)

HPI
#104815 INNER BODY SET FOR DT-1 TRUCK BODY

Associated
6180 Driver, unpainted, 1:10

McAllister
#423 Stock Interior and Driver
#419 SPRINT CAR DRIVER

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 "front" and #4797 "rear", using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. All other tires and/or part numbers are illegal. Wheels and tires designated as "front" must be used as front tires/wheels, "rear" wheels/tires must used as rears.

Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.

Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. Tires may not be belted or changed to prevent "ballooning". All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.

Chassis Specification:
Four Wheel Drive touring car chassis only. Any era or brand 4wd chassis is allowed.
***All Cars must be Full Time 4wheel drive no “1-way” diff or pulley system is allowed***

Motor Specifications:
Any ROAR approved 25.5 motor that is on the ROAR list and only 12.3 rotor
Novak SS25.5 Pro brushless motor (pn:3425V) or Ballistic 25.5 (pn:3625V-stator only
pn:S6625) Club (pn:3331) or Boss (pn:3626V) are grandfathered in and also legal
All house track rules regarding LiPo usage apply. Only physical motor timing advance is
allowed, however Ballistic/Boss motors may be advanced beyond the last line of the timing
range sticker. 12.3 mm rotor diameter only (no "tuning" rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed). Using ceramic bearings in the motor makes you a dork. No modifications or optional parts allowed on motor can, endbell, stator, or rotor other than the Boss #5925 Ballistic 540 Vented Endbell/Bearing Racing Upgrade Kit (replacement) . No cooling holes or other changes allowed to motor. Fans and external clip on heatsinks are allowed, but integral type heatsinks/fans including but not limited to those that require motor disassembly to mount are illegal.
All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.

Approved ESC's:
ANY ESC that is ROAR approved and using ROAR approved “Blinky” spec software or on this
list.

Battery Specifications:
Battery must be a 2-cell (7.4V) LiPo hard cased, 6000 mAh MAX limit.

Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm on Carpet.

Weight Specification:
Minimum 1450g in race-ready trim.

Race Specification:
- 5 minute qualifiers.
- 8 minute mains.
- Larger Races IFMAR-type starts are a better option. All smaller “club” heats and mains
should be straight-up starts, with random sorts for each heat if desired. Non random sorts
should shuffle starting order for each heat.

Optional Main Variations:
- 12-20 car A-mains, depending on car counts.
- Invert qualifying order based on random hat pull (top 6-10 cars).
- "LeMans" type starts where all cars are lined up on an angle to the racing line in order.
- Run track in reverse rotation for mains.
- Rolling starts.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: If it's not in the rules, and does not encompass the spirit of slower, controlled racing with realistic looking cars, consider it illegal. This is called the "Spirit of VTA" Rule.

The class is based on slower, equal playing field competition with less traction, minimal aerodynamic aids and mostly older carpet racing technology. The final objective is close, fair, wheel-to-wheel racing for all.

All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.

3

Here are some pics of Vintage Trans Am cars that were at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals last weekend.
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0723.jpg.

Here are pics of the 10 VTA cars that made it to the A-Main at last weekend's 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals.
Click here to see the Championship Results for the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals.
.
http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0780.jpg.

Six

Is anyone else having to drill mount holes into 12th scale spur gears in order to make the ratio and fit in the motor mount? I dont mind doing it and it seems to work ok, but am I the only one?

Also since we are starting a new thread I have to link back to the Battlefield Road Course page. http://www.battlefieldraceway.com/RoadCourse.htm

There you will find some great videos and some pics of my USGT ride and My USGTA ride.

Yep, there's my baby.

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0712.jpg

Sharpie,

I don't think I gave you my car information so here it is.

1. Bill Belsher, Fort Worth, TX.
2. How did you hear about VTA racing at the ROAR Carpet Nats? When Andrew sent out the first official post about the classes for the NATS.
3. What kind of the following products did you use in VTA at the Nats?
a. Chassis: XRAY (can't exactly say what year, it is a T2R Pro fiberglass chassis bottom plate and T2 R Pro/008 aluminum bulkheads, a T2 009 EU spec graphite top plate, T2R Pro front shock tower, T2 009 Rear shock tower, T2 007 front axles, T2 007 Steel steering and camber links, T3 38 tooth belts and pulleys with a Spec R rear gear diff, and T3 2012 shocks)
b. ESC: Novak Edge
c. Motor: Novak Ballistic 25.5
d. Servo: Savox 1251MG
e. Battery: Primary Venom 2S 5000 mah 60C (USVTA Legal) and a SpeedZone Pearless Series 5600 70C 2S (one of my Dirt Oval midified batteries as a backup because I have already had to warranty this Venom for a broken positive battery tube once)
f. Radio: Futaba 3PM MX (yeah it's F.A.A.S.T. unfortunately I wasn't last weekend :weird::cry::eek::rolleyes::ha::ha::ha::tire::nod: )

Oh and one you forgot Sharpie

G Body: McAllister #286 1969 Mustang VTA

I have to admit, this body held up VERY well this weekend. Usually the front of my body is destroyed after a couple of heats but this body held up for the whole weekend with only minor cracking. The best part is I also used a XRAY hard front bumper and it fit intact under the body (no whittling on the bumper to make the body fit right).

YES THIS CAR IS FULLY USVTA LEGAL, unfortunately I did not get a handle on my electrical and handling problems in time to get any meaningful practice with this car. I finally got it to come around during the 1st heat Friday and still haven't found the sweet spot on this new motor. Maybe next year :nod::tire::spidey: Remember guys PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE! :D

So there's a Mcallister VTA in the flesh... looks good. I just grabbed a bunch of shells from them for my local club to run in a spec class, very happy with how solid the lexan is. Good stuff.

Classic question:

"Is there an FDR rule?"

NO!!!!!!

4.0 is a good place to start, HOWEVER, adjust your FDR based on track size, driving style and motor temps!

Now, who wants to start the first argument/debate that's been addressed 20 times already in the old thread?;)

:D:D:D

We could always go back to the body that should be legal because its cool even though it never was a trans am racer but I really really like it argument.:ha::ha::lol:

Is there a good setup for an old TC3 - Asphalt/Parking Lot type surface, pretty smooth, medium traction VTA Setup (or even a USGT type setup)

Springs / Oils / Chassis Height/rake / Droop, etc.

Looks like this thread is already messed up too. You have to scroll back and forth.. back and forth... just to read it... :rolleyes: I gave up trying to read the last couple pages of the other thread

????????:confused:

I personally stick to the J71, even if the other guys at the track think it's ugly. But really it doesn't matter, as long as the car is set up well ;).

I like the j71 except for the nose. I hit too many things for a two piece nose. :lol:

I agree. Set up is everything. I have run a lot of different bodies and they don't make any difference in the way the car performs. at least not in vta

Hmm... I figured the point was to get even longer life out of the shell as a whole. Screw it down and shoe goo it, no worries. When the first one finally gives out, swap the extra one that comes in the package on.... I race pretty clean but I have crash tested the nose a few times by hitting other cars that have wrecked directly in front of me, and it has held up well. This and the Mcallister offering are the only two legal shells I really dig. It's all about what looks good to the guy that's racing the car...

the J71 has a very strong nose when assembled correctly :sneaky: :) i've hit just about everything there could be on the track and haven't wrecked the nose on mine - its dented nicely on the front quarter panel, but that only makes it look real

and this new thread - NICE band-aid, Mods...How about fixing the real issue instead of doing this - nothing more then a band-aid when you either a) don't know how to fix the issue; or b) don't care to fix the issue :flaming:

The advantage the J71 has is weight. Almost 40g lighter than any other body out there. Even after the shoo-goo in the nose.

Thanks for the info guys. I just figured the nose would be a weak point. Since you have had so much luck with yours I may have to try one out. it is a great looking body. So far I have been happiest with the hpi mustang coupe. I also like the Pegasus mustang McAllister mustang and the hpi 70 mustang. The hpi challenger was ok but seemed a little weak. The hpi cuda really disappointed me but I think I got a defect. It shattered like glass after 2 race nights. I usually run a body every week for a couple of months before changing. I haven't run any of the camaro bodies yet but my son has a new parma camaro that looks promising.

parma camaro??? did i miss something - is it a brick like their cuda? :confused:

Not as curvy as the hpi camaro but not as blocky as the parma cuda. Its not a bad looking body. Its not painted yet so its a little hard to tell what the end result will be but it looks promising.

Out of the VTA bodies I have ran (2 Pegasus 70 camaros, HPI 69 Camaro and the HPI 68 Camaro), I have a cuda body, GT-350 mustang and the not legal vette body. The 68 Camaro is by far the most durable body IMO. 1 piece body and much thicker material stands up to some real abuse.

Yes it seems almost everyone runs them (which is a turn off to some) but there is definitely a reason.

Who idea was this?

Where is the history?

Can we put it back please?

It was IBLib's idea. History is all here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...am-racing.html.

Hey guys, while you're talking about VTA bodies be sure to go to this online poll for VTA bodies and place a vote for your favorite VTA body.

it's the lazy man's fix for the other thread's problem :rolleyes:

and yes, I will throw a dig in for this every chance I get :lol:

especially when the mods say its up to an admin to fix - and then the admin doesn't reply, kills the thread and locks the old USVTA thread...nice customer service - acting like a stereotypical IT guy, don't care about the users

ditto...Ive changed my settings back...but since Im easy, I dont see why others couldnt have just donr the same...

also, do you know how many post I had on that thread...lol...


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Show Thread & Close Window

Im just saying...:batman:

Congratulations to the Champion of Posts on U.S. Vintage Trans Am forum, DARKSIDE. :tire::batman::tire: Wow, you have nearly double the number of posts compared to robk. That's impressive. :tire:

Too many people complained. I never had a real issue and never changed any settings. I just would click last post icon and click try again button when it popped up and bam I was at the last post.

woohoo - I made the Top 10 :lol:

Well, it might be a bandaid fix but I appreciate the effort. Finally I can jutst goto the first unread post of this amazing thread.

I am used to the idea of splitting long threads up so it doesn't upset me. On another site I visit for my planes there is a popular thread that gets reset every year to a new thread. Not a huige issue as you can still go back and find the info/stories you need by a siple search and a few extra steps. For me, I like the extra steps for reading past history, not staying current.

Thank you for finally doing something about it! Now, someone will have to stay ontop of the problem so it doesn't happen again cause there is still a glitch in the forum that may come up again.

Again, thank you! Love live the VTA!

Concerning the bodies, the 68 Camero does seem to be the most popular body, at least from the pictures of the latest events. It is the body I run but only do to the one-piece design. I like the curves as well!

Well you have to admit, that re-direct error popping up was very irritating. Most users did not know what to do to get to the last post. Plus we don't know how many potential newcomers who were just browsing for info on VTA came across that old thread and thought "this one is broken, oh well, guess I won't be getting into VTA after all."

I will also be the 2012 US VTA Scale National Champion come April.....want to come see?

LOL If a thread problem stops them from getting into a racing a class, they weren't going to really do it in the first place. I would think the "TRY AGAIN" Button would be self explanatory, but maybe not.

I love smack talk. You'll have to get past last year's champion first. I think he might be close to 12 years old by now and I'm pretty sure he keeps a toothbrush at "The Track" as well.

Im bringing the XBOX so he can take time outs...and Ill have the mouthwash:batman:

Question: How does anybody feel about racing something other than Novak motors ?
Reason I ask is at the recent Carpet Nats the rules were "ROAR approved 25.5", thing is, there are no approved 25.5 motors listed in ROAR. So what now ?? :weird:

Stick with Novak so your USVTA legal to race anywhere. If it aint broke dont fix it.

I fully agree. But with the Paved On-road Nats coming this summer to Leisure Hours Raceway, and if this vague rule shows up again .... :weird: