View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll
4318LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
11-06-2014, 06:14 AM
#8011
In North Carolina, but I live in Fayetteville and race at Ho-b Max in Durham.
I sauce my tires after scuffing in the parking lot. It was crazy loose. Some people have some strange settings like 2mm up travel front and 4mm in rear. That seems excessive, but almost all my experience is on asphalt.
If I could get a base setup where I could get around the track I should be able to go from there. I have no idea where I should start.
I sauce my tires after scuffing in the parking lot. It was crazy loose. Some people have some strange settings like 2mm up travel front and 4mm in rear. That seems excessive, but almost all my experience is on asphalt.
If I could get a base setup where I could get around the track I should be able to go from there. I have no idea where I should start.
11-06-2014, 11:27 AM
#8012
I looked at all the carpet setups and they were for mod, on race tires. I really hoped someone on this thread had a vta setup they wouldn't mind sharing, if not I will copy a xray or associated setup and adjust from there.
11-06-2014, 11:55 AM
#8013
It takes more than some scuffing in the parking lot and one race day to break in tires for carpet. You have to get several heat cycles in them and let the tires really get some sauce in them. I also store my tires in ziploc bags after soaking them in sauce between race days. If you race every weekend this might not be nessecary, but it really helps when you only run very 4-6 weeks.
As for set up, what do you mean by "up-travel"? Are you refering to the actual amount of up-travel the suspention has? Ive havent seen that on a set up sheet or heard of that being a common item in set-ups. If you are referring to droop, then VTA is going to have some odd settingsif your coming from TC or USGT due to the height of the tires. I actually had to get a custom rear tower made for my VBC D06 to get any actual up-travel after I set my ride hight and droop. It might also be difficult to get a Tamiya set-up. It seems that now if you dont run xray, or the few associateds still left that havent converted, your on your own. I've had to develope my own set-ups from scratch on my VBC. Best bet is to go with a stock carpet set-up for your car, adjust droop and ride hight to compensatenfor the tires, and get a few runs in to break those tires in, and your car should be in the ball-park drivable. Once these tires are broken in, they get super grippy on carpet. Most VTA set-ups run a pretty low roll center front and rear with very little camber gain. Hope that helps.
As for set up, what do you mean by "up-travel"? Are you refering to the actual amount of up-travel the suspention has? Ive havent seen that on a set up sheet or heard of that being a common item in set-ups. If you are referring to droop, then VTA is going to have some odd settingsif your coming from TC or USGT due to the height of the tires. I actually had to get a custom rear tower made for my VBC D06 to get any actual up-travel after I set my ride hight and droop. It might also be difficult to get a Tamiya set-up. It seems that now if you dont run xray, or the few associateds still left that havent converted, your on your own. I've had to develope my own set-ups from scratch on my VBC. Best bet is to go with a stock carpet set-up for your car, adjust droop and ride hight to compensatenfor the tires, and get a few runs in to break those tires in, and your car should be in the ball-park drivable. Once these tires are broken in, they get super grippy on carpet. Most VTA set-ups run a pretty low roll center front and rear with very little camber gain. Hope that helps.
11-06-2014, 12:11 PM
#8014
Thanks Professor, that is kind of what I was looking for, and yes I was talking about droop. Droop settings have always confused me.
Are you modifying you car to get more droop?
I have a few specific questions though.
Are you useing think shock oil to allow quicker reaction or thicker to slow the weight transfer?
I would assume standard 1-2 deg camber front and rear and 1 deg toe out?
Are you modifying you car to get more droop?
I have a few specific questions though.
Are you useing think shock oil to allow quicker reaction or thicker to slow the weight transfer?
I would assume standard 1-2 deg camber front and rear and 1 deg toe out?
11-06-2014, 01:03 PM
#8015
I run no toe out as I my car has more steering than I can handle. Camber is about right. No I am not modding my car to get more droop. I modded it to get more suspension travel. With the droop settings like I wanted them and the stock towers, I was bottoming out on the shock travel before my chassis bottomed out on the track. This caused the rear to kick out as I had basicaly no more suspension. I needed a tower with higher mounting holes to give more travel.
11-06-2014, 02:05 PM
#8016
I always thought chassis bottoming out was bad because that would take all the weight off the tires.
What shock fluids do you recommend I start with? I went pretty thick in my mini to slow down weight transfer and reduce traction rolling.
What do you use to clean your tires between each round? I have been using AutoZone brake cleaner, I tried simple green but it didn't clean as well as break cleaner.
I am a total beginner on carpet and I am struggling. I have a pretty good handle on asphalt, but carpet is totally different.
What shock fluids do you recommend I start with? I went pretty thick in my mini to slow down weight transfer and reduce traction rolling.
What do you use to clean your tires between each round? I have been using AutoZone brake cleaner, I tried simple green but it didn't clean as well as break cleaner.
I am a total beginner on carpet and I am struggling. I have a pretty good handle on asphalt, but carpet is totally different.
11-06-2014, 02:31 PM
#8017
I hate when that stuff or actual MEK gets used. That smell is horrendous and gives me a massive headache. The best is when an MEK soaked rag gets thrown directly behind your fan. If indoor tracks are going to ban certain tire sauces because of fumes/smell, they should do the same for cleaners.
I just use tire sauce to clean my tires between rounds. It seems to work better than the Simple Green, as we've discussed.
Mark
11-06-2014, 03:25 PM
#8018
I painted airplanes in the air force for more than 20 years. I know all about the hazzards of mek and would NEVER use it in an environment like an indoor race track. The military has tried to phase it and toluene completely out. The problem with that is nothing will clean parts prior to paint as well as Mel. We had to uses special gloves and supplied air respirators, bad stuff.
11-06-2014, 04:28 PM
#8019
I work in the printing industry and anything MEK or Toluene based is bad stuff........Not so much the fumes, but skin contact is bad....
11-07-2014, 03:40 AM
#8020
I also use tire sauce to clean. It works the best. I also wear gloves when applying and cleaning tires. Not that I am afraid of any hazards, but because I hate having nasty dirty grimmy fingers. I also have a 3 month old at the house, and I do worry about holding her after a day at the track with that gunk on my hands and fingers.
The biggest thing is, use the same method everytime to prep and clean your tires. This consistancy will help your car. It takes out a factor in handling.
The biggest thing is, use the same method everytime to prep and clean your tires. This consistancy will help your car. It takes out a factor in handling.
11-07-2014, 04:04 AM
#8021
I also use tire sauce to clean. It works the best. I also wear gloves when applying and cleaning tires. Not that I am afraid of any hazards, but because I hate having nasty dirty grimmy fingers. I also have a 3 month old at the house, and I do worry about holding her after a day at the track with that gunk on my hands and fingers.
The biggest thing is, use the same method everytime to prep and clean your tires. This consistancy will help your car. It takes out a factor in handling.
The biggest thing is, use the same method everytime to prep and clean your tires. This consistancy will help your car. It takes out a factor in handling.
11-09-2014, 05:05 AM
#8022
My Dad used MEK at work and now has COPD. "Probably connected" his doctor says. The guys who are using it at your track should not. Or if they want to be stupid, they should use it away from others.
11-09-2014, 05:17 AM
#8023
these conversations of MEK or any other caustic thing shouldn't even be happening... tracks shouldn't allow this crap whether its an outdoor track or indoor track
most of the stuff we use are dangerous enough that you don't need to add in something else..
I've run on a bunch of different tracks over the years and NEVER seen anything that either motor spray or simple green can't clean off VTA tires...At the Southern Nats, all I used was motor spray to clean off the build up on my tires.. kept them nice and tacky, but got all that built up gunk off the tires
if it was my track, and i heard about someone using this stuff - they'd be asked to leave immediately and not that I'd rather them NOT come back again
most of the stuff we use are dangerous enough that you don't need to add in something else..
I've run on a bunch of different tracks over the years and NEVER seen anything that either motor spray or simple green can't clean off VTA tires...At the Southern Nats, all I used was motor spray to clean off the build up on my tires.. kept them nice and tacky, but got all that built up gunk off the tires
if it was my track, and i heard about someone using this stuff - they'd be asked to leave immediately and not that I'd rather them NOT come back again
11-10-2014, 07:03 AM
#8025
for those who asked about the bearing issue I was having and the noise in the novak ballistic I got in, after using that press fit loctite compound the noise got much better and the motor ran fine all yesterday in my daughters vehicle. Heck was suprised how well it worked had a good amount of pop.
You can definitely tell though when someone elses ballistic is a step above others. Wasn't outlandish but curious in general what do people use to check a motor for performance? coming from mod I would just drop in a faster motor if needed, but running spec and all not sure what are common practices to see if the motor is good, bad etc.
Vehicles themselves worked well, took a beating but kept coming back for more. need to get a hair more rotation out of the vehicle but probably will drop the toe slightly and I think that should do it.
You can definitely tell though when someone elses ballistic is a step above others. Wasn't outlandish but curious in general what do people use to check a motor for performance? coming from mod I would just drop in a faster motor if needed, but running spec and all not sure what are common practices to see if the motor is good, bad etc.
Vehicles themselves worked well, took a beating but kept coming back for more. need to get a hair more rotation out of the vehicle but probably will drop the toe slightly and I think that should do it.