mooby64

iTrader: (3)

Find the cheapest soda pop w/the highest sugar content, punch a few holes in the cap and literally spray down the entire track area. After it dries, be sure to apply a second application on the corners. Let it dry and your racing.

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

anybody looking for a inexpensive tc for vta $65 new

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Car_KIT_.html

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

interesting and great price-point... looks a lot like the sakura at first glance..

mooby64

iTrader: (3)

It is the Sakura

Teamhotrods

iTrader: (5)

HK has it listed at 1440grams without any electronics. That thing is a pig! But heck 65 bucks - it would be cheap to get on the track.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

but that's just the shipping weight. hopefully the fully assembled this is slightly less hefty. but either way probably some weight loss that can happen

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Myron's One Lug VTA win is up on RedRC. Good times.

koz47

iTrader: (97)

Novak need's to lazer etch timing marks on there endbell cap, eliminate the sticker, that's not the best way to check a motor for timing rule.
Etch the marks in 5* incriminates like they are now on the sticker or just drop the sticker timing rule.
Most people that do motor or chassis dyno work could care less about timing marks,to many variables,we set the motors where they need to be for optimum performance on the track.
Timing marks be it a sticker or actual etched marks are just a simple reference point on where to start..
BtW i've seen sticker placement on the Novak end cap be up to 1.5mm variance in either direction. Simple solution drop the sticker timing rule,move on to the next thing to bitch about..

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

that's cool

Wil Holmes

iTrader: (4)

We are ready to compete in the USVTA classes. Hoping to make it to OneLug this coming weekend to get some practice and see where we are as far as setup. We will be at the Hot Shot race April 5th.
Here is a couple pictures of our cars Left is mine TC6, Right is dads(rugdog65) his is TC6.1

robk

iTrader: (22)

If you are dynoing motors you better set every motor in the building.
Every 10 year old kid, every new guy, everybody.
This is the crap that will end the class at your track instantly if you do not help everyone. If you like racing this class help every driver.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

I really enjoyed talking to you guys at one lug a couple weeks ago. I am glad to see your machines coming along nicely. I think you guys are in for a lot of fun.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

It would be interesting to see a dyno slip with the motor from the factory. I'm guessing 9 times out of 10 the motor is already set for peak efficiency from the factory and messing with timing just becomes a mental crutch. There has to be a line where max rpm meets min current draw for a given load. At that point rpm gain is minimal while current draw goes exponential.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

question?....is this really needed?....dyno motors?....buying a batch of motors and checking them all to find your one good one?

or just trying to find the "sweet spot" with the dyno?

what happen to track testing?....you know set the timing and find the gear?.....

well Ill share how I get my sweet spot, if anybody wants it....

1st I get some really nice flowers....oh wait ...wrong sweet spot, sorry sweatheart...

okay back to motors...lol...my anniversary is tomorrow YUMMY!!!

gosh Im getting old...anyway

1st thing I do is install the motor as it comes out the package

2nd, I ask around to some of the other racers and find a good FDR to start with...I normally run 92-96 spurs on the TC6 series chassis...which gives me good range to make adjustments

3rd, whatever that neutral FDR is, normally around 4.0 to 3.6 depending on track, I set the FDR somewhere in the middle say 3.8 and runs some laps....this is the most important part...same battery, same setup, and clean lines...for around 2-3 minutes... your setup and car handling will need to be constant in your runs....

4th, after taking motor temps, I compare those too...making sure most of the racers are about the same. Its not to say your motor can be 150, and the guy next to you can be 100 and laps be similar...chassis setup,bearings and drivetrain will make a difference incl motor fan in your temps...just make sure you are in safe motor temps.

pause...sometimes after this the work is done....but if not, continue

If that doesn't get you in the ballpark....then #5 is to adjust the timing on the motor by 2-5 deg up and down...run step 3 & 4 and temp.....REMEMBER NEVER overtighten the 3 screws to the end bell, this can cause the sensor board to crack and make your motor fail.

This should help anybody get what they are looking for in the Novak motors, at least it is what I do....

You can also try this....gear your chassis as low as you can get it...say 3.1 FDR, and set the motor time at 15 deg and go from there....move 2-3 deg at a time and see where you end up....

always keep this in mind...higher timing on the motor, less torque...and vise versa

I got really side track with all this....and was posting something totally different and deleted it...but below is whats left of it...and I truly think its true


if so I find this crazy...where and who has the money for this?...and if your pockets are that deep, maybe you should donate your "not so good" motors to every newbie that wants to even think of racing USVTA...

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

looks good guys...cant wait to see them on the track