JimmyMack12

Never been much of a road racer; always been an oval guy.

That being said...yesterday, we hosted the 2013 Firecracker Classic at The Gate in Brunswick, OH (near Cleveland). I've always liked the old muscle cars, and, bein' a "stock car" guy, we had a "VTA on the oval" class at this race.

We had seven cars in the class, which is more than I expected :P Minimal changes to the cars - just had to get them to remember that they needed to turn left *only*...LOL...

Now...here's the thing. I *LOVED* seeing these cars on the oval. They remind me of old "Street Stock" or "Sportsman" type short track cars. For a while now, I've had an idea for a VTA-based oval class, using the VTA motor/battery/ESC/chassis rules, but, using HPI's slicks and vintage stock car wheels, and opening up the body rules to any vintage stock car body 1985 and older. There's a list of quite a few bodies. I've had a few people respond favorably to this idea over on the HobbyTalk boards:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=396527

Here's the look we're going for (minus the T/A decals, of course; the tires/wheels in this pic are from the Traxxas Kyle Busch truck and placed just for reference):



...and a list of rules:

Use the USVTA rules as a base. Touring-car chassis, AWD/4WD. No "oval-only" chassis. Use USVTA electronics/battery/motor rules. Driver figure not required.
Motor Specifications:
25.5 brushless with 2C 5000mAh LiPo: Novak 25.5 Spec brushless motor or Ballistic 25.5 ONLY combined with any hard-cased 2C 7.4v LiPo pack up to and including 5000 mAh capacity. Novak motors are the ONLY motor allowed at this time. All house track rules regarding LiPo usage apply. Only physical motor timing advance is allowed, however Ballistic motors must not be advanced beyond the last line of the timing range sticker. 12.3 mm rotor diameter only (no "tuning" rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed). Using ceramic bearings in the motor makes you a dork. No modifications or optional parts allowed on motor can, endbell, stator, or rotor. No cooling holes or other changes allowed to motor. Fans and external clip on heatsinks are allowed, but integral type heatsinks/fans including but not limited to those that require motor disassembly to mount are illegal.

All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.
Approved ESCs:

Novak-
Club Brushless ESC (#1852)
EDGE 2S Brushless ESC (#1850, 1851)
Mongoose Micro Brushless/Brush ESC (#1718)
GTB 2 Racing w/X-Drive (#1749)
GTB 2 Racing w/X-Drive- Low Profile (#1748)
GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC (#1708, 1709)
GTB series part numbers:1710, 1711
Havoc series part numbers:1732, 1733, 1735
Slyder part number: 1712

LRP
A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150

SPEED PASSION
Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC part number: 12280
Reventon Stock Club Race part number:SP000048

HOBBYWING
JUSTOCK Club ESC (same esc, but differing part numbers)-
Falcon Sekido Part #
Hobbywing Justock Black: 81020001 (Black)
Hobbywing Justock blue 81020000 (Blue)

CRC Part #
7014 - Hobbywing XERUN Juststock Club No timing ESC - Sensored

Battery Specifications:
2 cell LiPo hard cased, 5000 mAh limit

Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.

Weight Specification:
Minimum 1550g in race-ready trim

Tires:
HPI P/N #4792 (Rear, slick, D-compound, 31mm) and P/N #4791 (Front, slick, D-compound, 26mm) ONLY.

Wheels:
HPI wheels P/N #'s:
#33472 VINTAGE Wheel CC Type 26mm CHROME(0mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#33473 VINTAGE Wheel CC Type 31mm CHROME(6mm OFFSET/2pcs)
#3743 Stock Car Wheel 26mm Chrome (1mm Offset)
#3741 Stock Car Wheel 26mm Black
#3854 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 26mm BLACK (0mm OFFSET)
#3855 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 26mm WHITE (0mm OFFSET)
#3856 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 26mm GUNMETAL (0mm OFFSET)
#3857 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 26mm CHROME (0mm OFFSET)
#3858 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 31mm BLACK (6mm OFFSET)
#3859 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 31mm WHITE (6mm OFFSET)
#3860 VINTAGE STOCK CAR WHEEL 31mm GUNMETAL (6mm OFFSET)

Bodies: 1985 and older body styles only. No additional spoilers, except whatever comes *with* the body (HPI Camaros, etc.). NO WINGS (except on Plymouth Superbird/Dodge Daytona from RJSpeed).

Bodies must be 1955-1985 full-fendered stock car “Street Stock/Bomber/Thunder Car”-type body. Legal bodies are the following:

http://www.rjspeed.com - RJSpeed
‘71 Mercury Cyclone P/N #1034
'55 Chevy "Sportsman" P/N #RJS1051
'68 Chevy Camaro SS P/N #BOL2112 (7.6" wide)
'65 Ford Mustang Shelby GT P/N #2113 (7.6" wide)
'68 Chevy Chevelle P/N #BOL2213
'69 Dodge Charger P/N #BOL2257
'68 Chevy Camaro P/N #BOL2262 (8" wide)
'65 Ford Mustang Shelby GT P/N #BOL2263 (8" wide)
'64 Chevy Impala P/N #BOL2264
'69 Ford Torino Talladega P/N #BOL2265
'70 Chevy Nova SS P/N #BOL2278
'72 Chevy Monte Carlo P/N #BOL2286
'70 Plymouth Superbird (with wing) P/N #BOL2287
'67 Chevy Camaro P/N #BOL2371 (9" wide)
'65 Ford Mustang Shelby GT P/N #BOL2374
'55 Chevy Bel-Air P/N #BOL2382

http://www.windtunnelracingproducts.com/ - Wind Tunnel Racing Products
’83-’85 ASA Pontiac Firebird Late Model P/N #WT2392

http://www.mcallisterracing.com/racing/ - McAllister Racing
’74-’81 Camaro Street Stock P/N #264
’70 Ford Mustang Street Stock P/N #136
’70 Plymouth Barracuda Street Stock P/N #134
’83-’85 Pontiac Firebird Street Stock P/N #256
’57 Ford Bomber P/N #181
’55 Chevy Bomber P/N #182
'78 Camaro IROC P/N #275
'59 Plymouth P/N #292
'69 Charger P/N #290
'85 Monte Carlo P/N #268
'70 Pontiac Firebird P/N #295

http://www.hpiracing.com/home/ - HPI Racing
1965 Ford Shelby GT-350 Mustang (200mm) P/N #17508
1966 Ford Mustang GT (200mm) P/N #17519
1968 Chevy Camaro (200mm) P/N #7494
1978 Pontiac Firebird Trans-Am (200mm) P/N #107201
1970 Dodge Challenger (200mm) P/N #1015106
1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (200mm) P/N #17546
1969 Chevy Camaro (200mm) P/N #17531
1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (200mm) P/N #104926

http://www.parmapse.com/
’61 Chevy Impala P/N #PA10196 (Parma)
’70 Ford Boss Mustang P/N #PA10141 (Parma)
’57 Chevy P/N #PA10162 (Parma)
’70 Barracuda P/N #PA10113 (Parma)

http://www.speedysracingparts.com/RC_Racing_Bodies.htm - Speedy’s Racing Parts
’74-’81 Camaro Street Stock P/N #MCA-264 (McAllister)
‘70 Plymouth Barracuda Street Stock P/N #134 (McAllister)
‘70 Ford Mustang Street Stock P/N #136 (McAllister)
’57 Ford Bomber P/N #MCA-181 (McAllister)
’55 Chevy Bomber P/N #MCA-182 (McAllister)
’68 Chevy Chevelle P/N #BL2213 (old BoLink P/N)
’69 Dodge Charger P/N #BL2257 (old BoLink P/N)
’68 Chevy Camaro P/N #BL2262 (old BoLink P/N)
’65 Ford Mustang P/N #BL2263 (190mm) (old BoLink P/N)
’64 Chevy Impala P/N #BL2264 (old BoLink P/N)
’70 Chevy Nova P/N #BL2278 (old BoLink P/N)
’69 Ford Torino Talladega/Mercury Cyclone Spoiler P/N #BL2265 (old BoLink P/N)
’72 Chevy Monte Carlo P/N #BL2286 (old BoLink P/N)
’70 Plymouth Superbird P/N #BL2287 (old BoLink P/N)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...filter_mfr/325 - A-Main Hobbies/Pegasus Hobbies:
’70 1/2 Camaro PGH4001
’70 Mustang PGH4002
’70 Barracuda PGH4003

http://racepf.com/vintage-trans-am/j71-clear-body/ - ProtoForm Bodies
’70 AMC Javelin P/N 1526-00
----------------------------------------------------------

The class will be "designed" to get guys racing older Touring Cars, but, being on the oval, you can be a *little* more aggressive in racing

What's your guys' opinions?

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

Honestly the only thing i would do is stick to the usvta rules. Makes it easier to get crossover racers. If I perceive someone has an advantage to the body I run onroad with ill have to go out and get another body.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

I love special class racing like this! Awesome car models!

Finally a model of car where the hood pins actually look the part! I would love to build one of these and wire the pins like the real cars

JimmyMack12

That's the idea - stick with most, if not all, of the USVTA rules, but allow the other "vintage stock car" bodies, and the "stock car" wheels and tires. That's about the only differences.

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

That link for Speedy's didn't work for me, here is the address for the site:

http://www.speedysracingparts.com/

I like the idea you are working off of, very little difference to the usual VTA program.

JimmyMack12

http://www.speedysracingparts.com/RC_Racing_Bodies.htm - Fixed the link to Speedy's "Bodies" page. It's kind of hard to find just by going to their homepage.

Thanks! I just hope that it's something that can take off.

nf_ekt

iTrader: (115)

Cool, I hope it gains some popularity for you. With the battery / motor limitations, and required weight, the shell IMHO makes very very little difference. Set-up time should outweigh any "advantage" one body has over another. Fun, realistic, retro-style racing is cool and with your oval idea it should open the doors for even more styles. Reminds me of going to the local oval track (1:1) and seeing guys on a budget running damn near everything. Fun and visceral appeal in RC is a win.

yodace

iTrader: (8)

On many runs does it take for the vta tires to actual start working well?

theproffesor

iTrader: (66)

Are you running carpet/asphalt/concrete? The tires worked fine for me out of the package on high bite concrete. it took a suspension set up change and some tire sauce to get them to work on carpet. never rwn on asphalt. I think the tires work just fine anywhere, you just need to find a set uo that works. If you came from running another class on that chassis, you most likely are going to have to change your car around.

JayL

on Asphalt my brand new out of the bag tires are better than any other tire no matter how many 'break-in' runs they have. We don't allow sauce so I run them untouched.

So Zero is my answer to your question

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

If you are running on low grip/bite carpet, you may need to scuff the tires in on a rough surface before the tires start working well. Running on concrete or asphalt will scuff the tires.

Regardless of surface, I would recommend cleaning the tires before running them. Sometimes the mold release used on HPI Vintage tires will prevent traction compound from working on them when they are new. There are various ways and/or chemicals that can be used to clean & prep VTA tires.

Before recommending any specific way to get VTA tires to "start working well", I would highly recommend talking to other VTA racers at your local track. Sorry for not being more specific, but what may work or be allowed at one facility may not work at another.

Generally speaking with the right setup (and decent grip levels), VTA tires should work well on their first race day.

Rojna

Looks like we now have 3 different spec motors to choose from ...

ercwhtsd

iTrader: (1)

I don't believe so, the 3625 and 3625V have been discontinued.

http://teamnovak.com/shop/index.php?...products_id=79

The 3626 is it's replacement.

http://teamnovak.com/shop/index.php?...roducts_id=519

Travis S

iTrader: (46)

Does that motor still using a sticker to show the timing or did they do something better?

Rojna

Sure we do, discontined does not mean you cant use them in usvta.

Nice move by novak, now the new 25.5 has to be legal as there is no other available lol

But wait, the new NOVAK motor does not comply to current USVTA rules, does this mean a rule change and we will be able to add vented endbells to our old discontinued motors or do we all run out and buy the new one ??

Vented endbell = cooler runing motor = cooler is better