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U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
#1816
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
It keep costs down only for those getting into racing not those already racing. I guess that's the people you guys are trying to get? Those of us who race other classes and already have equipment it costs more cause we can't run the stuff we already have. I thought the whole point of this class was to be inexpensive to run and your sapose to be able to run old equipment to keep cost down , I guess that only counts for the chassis. I ran vta at carpet nats and had a blast but if I would of had to buy a inferior brand ( in my oppinion) esc I wouldn't have ran the class. Anyways these questions and arguments go nowhere so what's the point.
#1817
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
I'm not trying to bust chops, I am asking questions to try to be more informed and get a better understanding of the choices being made. I will say that there's a lot of innuendo and paranoia about cheating in this class. In many ways it reminds me of the Tamiya Mini Class, however unlike my experiences in VTA there were people caught cheating in Mini.
My experience with any spec class, TCS, VTA, et-al, is you will always have people claiming the fast guys are cheating. You can either police things or let it fester. If you have someone that had "accidentally" left their ESC in non-blinky mode then their runs are thrown out for the night. If people have a question one-way or another then tech the cars. And to answer your question, no, I've never been to a race where someone "accidentally" left their gear in non-blinky mode. However I have been at the track when someone admitted to having a 17-double in a stock can and complaining the other guy had to be cheating because he was and the other guy was faster. That was an awkward night at the track
Exactly. I guess I didn't know there was a VTA requirement for a figure. When I first started running VTA when it started at Trackside and The Track there was a recommendation for a driver's figure but not a requirement. But this is also back in the 4-cell/stock motor days too.
My experience with any spec class, TCS, VTA, et-al, is you will always have people claiming the fast guys are cheating. You can either police things or let it fester. If you have someone that had "accidentally" left their ESC in non-blinky mode then their runs are thrown out for the night. If people have a question one-way or another then tech the cars. And to answer your question, no, I've never been to a race where someone "accidentally" left their gear in non-blinky mode. However I have been at the track when someone admitted to having a 17-double in a stock can and complaining the other guy had to be cheating because he was and the other guy was faster. That was an awkward night at the track
Exactly. I guess I didn't know there was a VTA requirement for a figure. When I first started running VTA when it started at Trackside and The Track there was a recommendation for a driver's figure but not a requirement. But this is also back in the 4-cell/stock motor days too.
Understanding what Barb and Jim (Hot Slots) are trying to do with their fledgling program and the demographic area that they are in. It may be that the ROAR version of VTA, however only use the ballistic or SS motors, is the best route to go for them initially and then slowly morph it over to USVTA if it makes sense to do so.
With the saturation of offroad in your area, and no real on-road presence in the area. It may be that little bit of incentive for the offroad crowd to swing to on-road in the off months by using the ROAR specs with 1 motor mfg. to get started.
I also know that with yourself and the MIA Johnny from mars (aka Rick) helping them in some decisions. The program will turn out well.
I would not have a problem making a southerly drive to run my USVTA car once in awhile once that get started.
#1823
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
Looking for a rule clarification for our track:
From a discussion we are having on our thread:
Can Darkside or someone else closer to in charge verify whether the club spec system is infact legal, please? I'm fairly certain it is, but figured it'd be safest to check.
From a discussion we are having on our thread:
The one that's around $100 is not USVTA approved, it's the "club spec" setup that doesn't even have any motor timing available. USVTA allows motor timing, and to get something competitive you're looking at spending about $160 for the setup that is USVTA approved and allows motor timing.
That certainly is a good price, but is still 2x more than I'd have to pay to get into the class if I just had to buy a brushless 25.5 motor and ran it on one of my Tekins
That certainly is a good price, but is still 2x more than I'd have to pay to get into the class if I just had to buy a brushless 25.5 motor and ran it on one of my Tekins
Both the club spec esc, and novak SS motor are listed on the USVTA website as being legal (it just so happens they are not listed together). The SS motor with no endbell timing has actually won a few big races (yea.... I know driver dependent). The motor doesnt' have motor timing but is allowed. If there was confusion as to my comment about the motors earlier in my first post about new people running Ballistics, I edited that and said Novak 25.5. I just think of the ballistic right away and posted it that way.
From the USVTA website:
Motor Specifications:
25.5 brushless with 2C LiPo: Novak SS25.5 Pro brushless motor (pn:3425V) or Ballistic 25.5 (pn:3625V- stator only pn:S6625)
and the esc- (its the first one on the list)
Approved ESCs:
Novak-
Club Brushless ESC (#1852)
EDGE 2S Brushless ESC (#1850, 1851)
Linked on Novak's site as well: (together this time)
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...6.0.0.0?pp=10&
Not to mention the speed passion ESC's that are legal:
Speed Passion Cirtix $60
Speed Passion Reventon Stock Club should be about the same as well
Only reason I know this is the research I've done talking to USVTA guys and reading through their rules and website extensively. Maybe there is something you see that I'm missing? I see your point with the other esc's as for some guys that are racing it would be more cost effective to use what they have in blinky, the main point is trying to match what other places are doing to get more people coming to race. At the same time the rules USVTA uses requires less arguing over who is "cheating" running software that blinks and still has boost or changing back to blinky etc..... its the same argument they have all the time, I can see both sides, but to have people come in for races, going with their rules seems to be the best option, since most places are going that route.
From the USVTA website:
Motor Specifications:
25.5 brushless with 2C LiPo: Novak SS25.5 Pro brushless motor (pn:3425V) or Ballistic 25.5 (pn:3625V- stator only pn:S6625)
and the esc- (its the first one on the list)
Approved ESCs:
Novak-
Club Brushless ESC (#1852)
EDGE 2S Brushless ESC (#1850, 1851)
Linked on Novak's site as well: (together this time)
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...6.0.0.0?pp=10&
Not to mention the speed passion ESC's that are legal:
Speed Passion Cirtix $60
Speed Passion Reventon Stock Club should be about the same as well
Only reason I know this is the research I've done talking to USVTA guys and reading through their rules and website extensively. Maybe there is something you see that I'm missing? I see your point with the other esc's as for some guys that are racing it would be more cost effective to use what they have in blinky, the main point is trying to match what other places are doing to get more people coming to race. At the same time the rules USVTA uses requires less arguing over who is "cheating" running software that blinks and still has boost or changing back to blinky etc..... its the same argument they have all the time, I can see both sides, but to have people come in for races, going with their rules seems to be the best option, since most places are going that route.
We need to find clarification on the issue. Novak calls the "club spec" VTA, but it's not listed on the USVTA website. The part number is 3331.
According to the website, and what you posted, the only motors allowed are the 3425V and 3625V. The motor included in the club spec 3331 is not even listed separately on their website. The 3425V appears to be discontinued (not listed), but was the original silver-canned novak 25.5.
I found this link. http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...vta/index.html The 3331 is not listed on Novaks own site as a VTA setup, despite its name. It also doesn't list the 3425V because it is discontinued.
Also notice how the 3425V and 3625V both have V's, I'm betting because they are both USVTA approved. The 3331... no V. Just sayin'
And yes, the ESC that comes with the "club spec" 25.5T setup is USVTA approved, but the motor does not appear to be.
In any case, I think the USVTA's guy name is DARKSIDE here on rctech... someone should PM him to verify 3331 is OK with USVTA and encourage him to update his website, because right now, it does not appear to me that the "club spec" setup is USVTA approved.
According to the website, and what you posted, the only motors allowed are the 3425V and 3625V. The motor included in the club spec 3331 is not even listed separately on their website. The 3425V appears to be discontinued (not listed), but was the original silver-canned novak 25.5.
I found this link. http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...vta/index.html The 3331 is not listed on Novaks own site as a VTA setup, despite its name. It also doesn't list the 3425V because it is discontinued.
Also notice how the 3425V and 3625V both have V's, I'm betting because they are both USVTA approved. The 3331... no V. Just sayin'
And yes, the ESC that comes with the "club spec" 25.5T setup is USVTA approved, but the motor does not appear to be.
In any case, I think the USVTA's guy name is DARKSIDE here on rctech... someone should PM him to verify 3331 is OK with USVTA and encourage him to update his website, because right now, it does not appear to me that the "club spec" setup is USVTA approved.
Can Darkside or someone else closer to in charge verify whether the club spec system is infact legal, please? I'm fairly certain it is, but figured it'd be safest to check.
#1824
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Gary,
Understanding what Barb and Jim (Hot Slots) are trying to do with their fledgling program and the demographic area that they are in. It may be that the ROAR version of VTA, however only use the ballistic or SS motors, is the best route to go for them initially and then slowly morph it over to USVTA if it makes sense to do so.
With the saturation of offroad in your area, and no real on-road presence in the area. It may be that little bit of incentive for the offroad crowd to swing to on-road in the off months by using the ROAR specs with 1 motor mfg. to get started.
I also know that with yourself and the MIA Johnny from mars (aka Rick) helping them in some decisions. The program will turn out well.
I would not have a problem making a southerly drive to run my USVTA car once in awhile once that get started.
Understanding what Barb and Jim (Hot Slots) are trying to do with their fledgling program and the demographic area that they are in. It may be that the ROAR version of VTA, however only use the ballistic or SS motors, is the best route to go for them initially and then slowly morph it over to USVTA if it makes sense to do so.
With the saturation of offroad in your area, and no real on-road presence in the area. It may be that little bit of incentive for the offroad crowd to swing to on-road in the off months by using the ROAR specs with 1 motor mfg. to get started.
I also know that with yourself and the MIA Johnny from mars (aka Rick) helping them in some decisions. The program will turn out well.
I would not have a problem making a southerly drive to run my USVTA car once in awhile once that get started.
#1826
#1827
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Oh C'mon rcsuicide! You should know the answer to that by now.
Just in case you have amnesia or something, the only ESC's allowed per USVTA Rules are...
Just in case you have amnesia or something, the only ESC's allowed per USVTA Rules are...
- Novak Club Brushless ESC (#1852)
- Novak Edge 2S Brushless ESC (#1850, 1851)
- Novak Mongoose Micro Brushless/Brush ESC (#1718)
- Novak GTB2 Racing w/X-Drive (#1749)
- Novak GTB2 Racing w/X-Drive- Low Profile (#1748)
- Novak GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC (#1708, 1709)
- Novak GTB series part numbers: 1710, 1711
- Novak Havoc series part numbers: 1732, 1733, 1735
- Novak Slyder (DISCONTINUED) part number: 1712
- Novak XBR (DISCONTINUED) part number:1720
- LRP A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150
- Speed Passion Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC part number: 12280
- Speed Passion Reventon Stock Club Race part number: SP000048
#1828
Oh C'mon rcsuicide! You should know the answer to that by now.
Just in case you have amnesia or something, the only ESC's allowed per USVTA Rules are...
Just in case you have amnesia or something, the only ESC's allowed per USVTA Rules are...
- Novak Club Brushless ESC (#1852)
- Novak Edge 2S Brushless ESC (#1850, 1851)
- Novak Mongoose Micro Brushless/Brush ESC (#1718)
- Novak GTB2 Racing w/X-Drive (#1749)
- Novak GTB2 Racing w/X-Drive- Low Profile (#1748)
- Novak GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC (#1708, 1709)
- Novak GTB series part numbers: 1710, 1711
- Novak Havoc series part numbers: 1732, 1733, 1735
- Novak Slyder (DISCONTINUED) part number: 1712
- Novak XBR (DISCONTINUED) part number:1720
- LRP A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150
- Speed Passion Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC part number: 12280
- Speed Passion Reventon Stock Club Race part number: SP000048
#1829
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
That was me, I farted
This is kinda/sorta my point. For the crowd we had here they have been running almost all off-road. Not only that but, again just in our area, Stock/17.5 is almost non-existent. Just about everything is open mod. I call it the Rickey Bobby syndrome (I wanna go fast!) but I digress. That being said if we can get some of these guys to be able to come and run, buy into the program and such, and make it so they can use SOME of their existing equipment without having a competitive advantage I think that will help grow our program in our situation. The same goes for capacity limits. For our classes people are going to have to buy the chassis, motor, body, wheels, tires for sure. If they can save some money by reusing some of their existing gear (part of the core philosophy behind USVTA) and not have a competitive advantage how is that a bad thing. But again the reasoning behind my questions was to see if there was a competitive reason behind why the ROAR VTA ESC Rules differed from the USVTA ESC Rules. I'm not saying one is better than the other I was just looking for some clarity.
Eric, thanks! I think swallowing buying a spec motor is easier to swallow for this situation because, like I say, almost no-one runs 17.5T down here so to be able to run someone has to buy a motor anyways. A 25.5T and the 17.5T are the same price so that's a push. Here's the other thing. For those looking to get both an ESC and Motor the Novak Club System is going to be the system I'm going to recommend. You can't beat the price if you need to start from scratch.
It keep costs down only for those getting into racing not those already racing. I guess that's the people you guys are trying to get? Those of us who race other classes and already have equipment it costs more cause we can't run the stuff we already have. I thought the whole point of this class was to be inexpensive to run and your sapose to be able to run old equipment to keep cost down , I guess that only counts for the chassis. I ran vta at carpet nats and had a blast but if I would of had to buy a inferior brand ( in my oppinion) esc I wouldn't have ran the class. Anyways these questions and arguments go nowhere so what's the point.
Gary,
Understanding what Barb and Jim (Hot Slots) are trying to do with their fledgling program and the demographic area that they are in. It may be that the ROAR version of VTA, however only use the ballistic or SS motors, is the best route to go for them initially and then slowly morph it over to USVTA if it makes sense to do so.
With the saturation of offroad in your area, and no real on-road presence in the area. It may be that little bit of incentive for the offroad crowd to swing to on-road in the off months by using the ROAR specs with 1 motor mfg. to get started.
I also know that with yourself and the MIA Johnny from mars (aka Rick) helping them in some decisions. The program will turn out well.
I would not have a problem making a southerly drive to run my USVTA car once in awhile once that get started.
Understanding what Barb and Jim (Hot Slots) are trying to do with their fledgling program and the demographic area that they are in. It may be that the ROAR version of VTA, however only use the ballistic or SS motors, is the best route to go for them initially and then slowly morph it over to USVTA if it makes sense to do so.
With the saturation of offroad in your area, and no real on-road presence in the area. It may be that little bit of incentive for the offroad crowd to swing to on-road in the off months by using the ROAR specs with 1 motor mfg. to get started.
I also know that with yourself and the MIA Johnny from mars (aka Rick) helping them in some decisions. The program will turn out well.
I would not have a problem making a southerly drive to run my USVTA car once in awhile once that get started.
#1830
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
I asked this in the GTB2 thread, but figured I'd ask it here
I'd like to make the wires to the cap longer - has anyone done this and if so, any ill effects? what guage wire have you used? the stock wire looks like 16g...
I'm used to using a tekin with the smaller cap, so I'm having an issue finding a good home for the novak cap on my F104..
another question...has anyone used anyone else's cap, like the one Speed passion sells, with their GTB2?
thanks!
I'd like to make the wires to the cap longer - has anyone done this and if so, any ill effects? what guage wire have you used? the stock wire looks like 16g...
I'm used to using a tekin with the smaller cap, so I'm having an issue finding a good home for the novak cap on my F104..
another question...has anyone used anyone else's cap, like the one Speed passion sells, with their GTB2?
thanks!