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Old 06-15-2012, 07:57 AM   #991
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Originally Posted by cegpcola View Post
Just wanted to say that I really enjoy the VTA class. This class has brought me back out to the track in the last 2 months after not really doing much Racing over the last 10 years. I bought a JRXS Type R to use in VTA from a fellow rctech member, and recently purchased another to use as a complete spare ans to have for anyone else who wants to give it a try to pick up and run with. Though I have a ways to go with getting smoother while on the stand, I have been able to finish top 3 or 4 each time. One of my biggest problems so far is getting the timing and gearing correct as these guys at our track are just about to touch the 2.99 mark on FDR. I have a couple of fans to throw on it for the next race, and hope that keeps the motor from falling off a little late in the run.

My current VTA car. A JRXS Type R with a spool up front and a PRS Spur adapter.


Kurtis
That car looks like the one Doug Carter was selling a while back. If it is, then you didn't just buy any VTA ride, you bought one off one of the founding fathers of USVTA. I would imagine you'd be competitive without any major changes.

2.99:1 is too low for just about any track. I race on one with a 225' straight and don't go lower than 3.20. In fact, the last race I ran there, I got into a good run with another driver until I made a mistake and flipped my car. He gained about a half lap lead on me on a 22 second per lap track. I was able to run him down in the last 3 minutes of the race and pass him for third place. He was geared 3.01, I was geared 3.21. He was overgeared and had no power late in the game. You have to remember these are 8 minute mains. I was probably over geared as well in that race. But I get sucked into it like everyone else thinking I'll get more speed that way. I refreshed my memory about getting the gearing right last weekend on a smaller (but still big) parking lot track. It was very hot and I kept going to a smaller and smaller pinion. Each time I did, my lap times improved. I could feel the car carrying more speed in the corners and having better exit speeds and it didn't make much of a difference in the straight.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:15 AM   #992
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Originally Posted by cegpcola View Post
Not sure on the JRXS, as they are a little more difficult to get Lipos in then the type R. That is the only real downfall to the chassis design on either one. If it was a type R, I might be interested as you can never have enough parts. I will keep my eye out and send them your direction if I come across someone needing a decent chassis though.


Kurtis
I have a shorty 4300 65c lipo pack that I bought specifically to fit into the JRXS....it fits great! But I have never put any runs on the pack because I got a tc6.1 and never used the lipo pack. I am selling the lipo pack with the JRXS.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:16 AM   #993
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I thought this post from robk in the VTA woes thread had some great setup info for beginners, so I'm reposting the info here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
Excellent! Thank you!

My experience is limited, do you find the car needs more or less camber compared to TC tires due to the wider tires and uneven sidewalls? How much variance do you see between front and rear as "normal" do to the staggered widths?
We usually just run 1.5 -2*. A lot of new guys have no camber or are even going in the wrong direction.

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Originally Posted by orcadigital
I was told that ride height should be 6-7 usually? Is this chassis or body? I find that if they are both the same, that I get rub on the sides under hard cornering. Some say VTA should be set up very soft, others very hard, i have found soft seems to help me roll corners better, but no idea what the "fast guys" do.
I run at 5mm on carpet. It depends on your car somewhat as well due to the chassis width. Narrower cars can get away with less. i like to slam the body as much as i can until it rubs.

Soft or hard also depends on the track. If it's a carpet track, stiffer can be faster if the traction is up, but this also heats the tires up. There is a point that the tires get too hot and start picking up fiber from the track surface. This is usually not a concern unless A) it's a long race or B) the track has a tendency to cause the tires to pick up gunk. Some tracks do this because of the carpet, and it happens to almost all classes, but especially the 1/12 cars. In that case, it's imperative to set the car very softly.

Softer can be better as well, but if the car is rolling too much and binding up in the corners, that will not be fast at all. A lot of times, this is when the sway bars come into play to let the car be soft in ride without too much loss of corner speed. In fact, a lot of times a big rear bar will work very well if you have to run the car soft.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
Corner balancing? Most balance left/right (hudy balance pins) but I do not see anyone balancing across corners. Most seem to prefer a bias front or rear for either steering or rotation. I am not skilled enough to tell the difference in most cases, but I have not seen anyone corner balancing.
I'm talking about using a tweak station or balancing on a board to ensure that the shock collars are adjusted properly and the droop is set.

I will make a video of this since I can't seem to find one on the internet. Basically, you're rocking one half of the car onto the setup board, and seeing which tire lands first for droop, and then lifting the chassis of the board and bringing the chassis back down to see which side of the chassis touches first to adjust the shock collars. This is a very easy way to make sure your car tracks straight and turns equally.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
Droop messed up as in too much or too little? What is a good starting point?
As above, #1 even side to side. The best place to start is about 2mm more than ride height on both ends for carpet, and maybe 3mm for asphalt.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
Breaking in tires? How? Myron told me his are just as fast bald as new. Some at the track scrub them on asphalt to take the shinyness away. I usually put it down, and after 2 battery packs, start adjusting setups to the tires, full sauce, and see where it goes from there. Our club requires full width visible tread for our series races which limits us. Does full tread lead to more overheating issues with a smaller contact patch? I have not seen anyone glue the sidewalls (minus messing up with the CA and getting it in unwanted places) and was not sure that was used much with rubber. How does that affect the car with different inner and outer sidewalls?
Most people up this way will either run the car on cement for a few minutes to take the shine off (last minute emergency way) or use something Like Trinity Buggy grip or even goo gone to soften the tires up initially. You can sauce them with those type of products and put them in a bag overnight. This is also how to deal with "hard" batches of tires....it happens some times. But after a few runs, the typical tire doping routine will bring the tires in nicely. Most carpet tracks are either Paragon or Jack the Gripper/SXT, and after 3-4 weeks of running the tires may start to be TOO soft, at which point it's best to save them for outside. For asphalt, Gravity RC LG2 works very well with ta rubber. You just rub it on at let air dry and it is very good.

As far as glueing the sidewalls, if your car starts to traction roll, this is the first thing to try. It is the easiest and fastest thing, and you don't have to change the setup. In fact even if your car isn't traction rolling, it' can be helpful to "calm it down".

Don't worry about the sidewall differences, it's really no concern.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
Regarding weight, I was told that some of our club members were laughed at last year at the Nats because their cars all came in near 1550, and all the locals were 1650+. Sort of the theory that the Losi 4x4 short course trucks and why they have an advantage over the lighter SC10's. Slower to get moving, easier to roll the corners, and more likely to come out ahead in car to car contact. A lot of that weight seemed to be mounted in the extreme front or rear of the bodies as well which seemed odd to me, but no one could explain it to me.
I don't know who was laughing, but as you add weight to the cars, they become easier to drive, and also win out more in any bumping matches that may happen. Trying to get weight out of the car really is not a huge concern. I have pointed out before that when we tested to try to determine minimum weights, the more we added, the faster the car went. They just got easier to drive. But some people complain about having to add lead, and how much room that takes.

The other thing is that adding lead towards the front helps maintain front end traction. These cars tend to push, and on power steering is KEY to corner speed, especially in underpowered classes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
As Joe said, this really is not the right placer for this, but trust me, I have asked lots of questions on these forums. Many of them are really dumb, and I am sure beneath many of the readers, or have been asked many times before. But trust me, my reading comprehension is fine. What I see most of the time when I ask questions is that Myron is stock or nearly so, and his car is always perfect. Yes, much of this is probably standard TC setup stuff (I am told this is an entry level class, so I assumed entry level questions were acceptable). There are also specifics to VTA, as you need to roll the corners more, maintain speed, and the tires are both treaded and staggered which make them very different from other styles of tires.
the staggered width issue is mostly what causes the push

Quote:
Originally Posted by orcadigital
If you would like to insult me or my reading comrehension, please do so in PM's and spare everyone else from it.
Uhh that's for your buddy who didn't want me posting the information in this thread. Not you. I was pointing out that you asked.

signed,
The Keyboard Cowboy
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:30 AM   #994
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where do you race at? Kurtis
Hobby Central in Pensacola FL. The shop owner has been great to deal with over the last 10 years, and unfortunately he did not have the space to run a track from around 2005 when he changed locations, but as of October he was able to get in a better location and started racing again. We race every 1st and 3rd weekend right now, and have a decent turnout, but it is slow at taking off again especially in the soft economy.

Kurtis
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:48 AM   #995
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Originally Posted by beemerfan View Post
That car looks like the one Doug Carter was selling a while back. If it is, then you didn't just buy any VTA ride, you bought one off one of the founding fathers of USVTA. I would imagine you'd be competitive without any major changes.

2.99:1 is too low for just about any track. I race on one with a 225' straight and don't go lower than 3.20. In fact, the last race I ran there, I got into a good run with another driver until I made a mistake and flipped my car. He gained about a half lap lead on me on a 22 second per lap track. I was able to run him down in the last 3 minutes of the race and pass him for third place. He was geared 3.01, I was geared 3.21. He was overgeared and had no power late in the game. You have to remember these are 8 minute mains. I was probably over geared as well in that race. But I get sucked into it like everyone else thinking I'll get more speed that way. I refreshed my memory about getting the gearing right last weekend on a smaller (but still big) parking lot track. It was very hot and I kept going to a smaller and smaller pinion. Each time I did, my lap times improved. I could feel the car carrying more speed in the corners and having better exit speeds and it didn't make much of a difference in the straight.
This car was great to start with, I did make some very small changes to it to get the rear end to plant a little better on our slick pavement but it wasn't anything major. We run a large portion of an oval track in reverse and on the back stretch we head off of the curve into the infield and run some tight technical stuff and then come back out going into the curve and skip the entire back stretch. With this track layout we are at wide open for a good portion of the track, but I might start going backwards with my pinions a little bit to see if I can keep the motor happier for longer in the run as well as pick up some time on my laps. I started gearing it based on what everyone else was running in their TC3s, so that is just where I started. I have ran several different ratios from 3.01-3.09 and just can't seem to keep up with them on the straights. Everyone else seems to be running 3.06, so I am still playing around to pick up a little more.

That is pretty cool about the previous owner. I can say that the JRXS type R platform works very well, just makes me wish that Losi had not given up on it.

Kurtis
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:01 PM   #996
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I can say that the JRXS type R platform works very well, just makes me wish that Losi had not given up on it.
Me too!!
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:32 PM   #997
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We had another great night of VTA racing yesterday at Mike's Hobby Shop. There were 10 VTA racers on the track. It was a BLAST! Lot's of "paint swapping" going on. Take a look at these race videos...
VTA 1st Qualifier Video: http://youtu.be/iqcTcYyiK9k
2nd Qualifier Video: http://youtu.be/_MhN15mWqEQ
VTA A-Main Video: http://youtu.be/NWxZac_Bvk8
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Old 06-15-2012, 09:02 PM   #998
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Originally Posted by beemerfan View Post
That car looks like the one Doug Carter was selling a while back.
I was going to say that looks like the shell Doug used at the VTA NATS. I can't believe how good it still looks. I would park that one and spray up a one color wonder to learn on .
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Old 06-15-2012, 10:57 PM   #999
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I was going to say that looks like the shell Doug used at the VTA NATS. I can't believe how good it still looks. I would park that one and spray up a one color wonder to learn on .
Yeah, the first race day I hit everything it seemed, but I calmed down and don't hit anything as long as the other drivers don't lean on me to hard. I am actually a pretty clean racer and don't make many mistakes that would damage the car or body. I getting ready to get another J71 painted up though.


Kurtis
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:37 PM   #1000
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I would like to Thank Matt and the Hobby Lobby Team and Hobbyshop for the very nice, and I do say nice donation and sponsorship.

My hats off to you all, thanks again

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:20 PM   #1001
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Anyone else running a TCX in VTA trim???

Would be interested in your asphalt setup for comparison. Currently running book setup minus rear sway bar.

Car handles well,just looking for comparison's.

Thanks
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:45 PM   #1002
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd View Post
Anyone else running a TCX in VTA trim???

Would be interested in your asphalt setup for comparison. Currently running book setup minus rear sway bar.

Car handles well,just looking for comparison's.

Thanks
hey eric - I'm running one...have only had it out on a seal asphalt track once this year so for...the setup was decent just think i need some harder front springs to transfer more of the weight to the back - backend got slippy after 2-3 mins of running...

let me see what I have and I'll send it over to ya
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:42 AM   #1003
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Awesome day of USVTA this weekend!!!!

Here is a vid of one of the qualifiers....Gotta listen to the start....instead of the "tone" some left on a racers dog's bark....LOL

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:15 PM   #1004
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Finally got the body and chassis done! Don
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Old 06-18-2012, 03:39 PM   #1005
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What are the thoughts on the Novak Impact ESC in USVTA since it came out?
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