View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll
4318LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
02-03-2016, 08:13 AM
#9181
[QUOTE=regets ama;14374316]FYI,
You might want to check any recently purchased Novak BOSS 25.5 motor for the installed rotor type.
Mine came with the 5600-1 TUNING rotor (which actually measures very low gauss measurements, has very weak strength).
I was ready to purchase a new Boss motor to replace my 6 year old ballistic. I suppose in a worst case scenario I could replace the rotor if I found a weak rotor such as you describe.
According to the Novak webpage for the Boss, they list the 12.3MM rotor as the stock rotor but also list a 12.5MM optional rotor. Is the 12.5MM rotor legal per USVTA class rules?
You might want to check any recently purchased Novak BOSS 25.5 motor for the installed rotor type.
Mine came with the 5600-1 TUNING rotor (which actually measures very low gauss measurements, has very weak strength).
I was ready to purchase a new Boss motor to replace my 6 year old ballistic. I suppose in a worst case scenario I could replace the rotor if I found a weak rotor such as you describe.
According to the Novak webpage for the Boss, they list the 12.3MM rotor as the stock rotor but also list a 12.5MM optional rotor. Is the 12.5MM rotor legal per USVTA class rules?
02-03-2016, 08:41 AM
#9182
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No the 12.5mm rotor is not legal...only the 12.3mm rotor is legal under USVTA rules and now ROAR rules as well they spec'd that only 12.3mm rotors would be legal for under ROAR 25.5 motor rules....just an fyi.
02-03-2016, 09:34 AM
#9184
Also, two people on this thread have said they do it that way too so I'm sticking with it.
You should see how soft some people's tires are, my 3 coats of Paragon aren't even close to theirs. We do run Outlaw VTA here with 21.5 motors and even 1970's Japanese bodies, so to say we don't stick verbatim to the USVTA rules would be accurate.
Last edited by RotorTruck; 02-03-2016 at 09:55 AM.
02-03-2016, 10:36 AM
#9185
I like the way my car performs better on newer tires. I have changed my saucing, cleaning, and storage methods to keep the tires like new as long as possible. If the tires get too soft, the car becomes unpredictable, and traction rolls easily. I spent two race days fighting traction rolling, put on a new set of tires and instantly the traction rolling went away and the car was handling in a manageable way.
02-03-2016, 12:06 PM
#9186
02-03-2016, 09:31 PM
#9189
VTA in China update
Last weekend we held the first VTA race in Shanghai. We had 7 people racing, but more will join as some were preparing for the Chinese New Year holiday. We expect to have 15-25 racers by March.
We follow all the VTA rules, except I allow unlimited batteries and don't require Novak motors. Unfortunately, Novak was unable to respond to my importing requests, so I had to build my own 25.5 Trans Am Asia Spec motors. They only cost $35. Good to live in China.
I modified the battery rule to accommodate our race format. We run one 5 minute qualifier to determine the best 3 consecutive laps time. Just before the main, a coin toss.
Heads = same direction with inverted grid
Tails = normal grid racing in oposite direction
We then race two 20 minute mains. The second main start order is the first main's finish order. Add up lap counts from both legs and you got a winner.
After 40 minutes of racing, the top 5 were only separated by about 15 seconds (little over 1 lap).
My philosophy is to reduce qualifying and provide as much racing as possible in the time allowed. This should help my racers gain more experience with racing situations and decision making.
What do you guys think?
We follow all the VTA rules, except I allow unlimited batteries and don't require Novak motors. Unfortunately, Novak was unable to respond to my importing requests, so I had to build my own 25.5 Trans Am Asia Spec motors. They only cost $35. Good to live in China.
I modified the battery rule to accommodate our race format. We run one 5 minute qualifier to determine the best 3 consecutive laps time. Just before the main, a coin toss.
Heads = same direction with inverted grid
Tails = normal grid racing in oposite direction
We then race two 20 minute mains. The second main start order is the first main's finish order. Add up lap counts from both legs and you got a winner.
After 40 minutes of racing, the top 5 were only separated by about 15 seconds (little over 1 lap).
My philosophy is to reduce qualifying and provide as much racing as possible in the time allowed. This should help my racers gain more experience with racing situations and decision making.
What do you guys think?
02-04-2016, 01:47 AM
#9191
Let the complaining begin!!!
02-04-2016, 06:51 AM
#9193
I am not a motor master by any means but what I have learned is:
It's really hard to say unless you have a coil resistance meter to test the stators and a gauss meter to test the rotor strength. The lowest resistance stator is the one you would want to go with. Lower resistance = more efficient and will run cooler/better at higher timing.
A weaker rotor will make the RPM much higher, but doesn't mean that because the motor RPM is higher that it is a better motor. So a gauss meter to test rotor strength is helpful. Normally the higher strength rotor the better for stock type racing.
So... I guess if you are really board you test each motor using the same rotor. Try to get the amp draw identical to each other and see what RPM readouts there are. I would try to get them all to the same amp draw (around 3.5) and use thee RPM timing info to help pick your "best" motor(s). This all sounds like a lot of work and most likely this time is better off getting a better setup and track time.
Something else to consider on your timing is going to be how long of a race or qualifier you are in. A 5 min race you most likely can run something with the higher amp draw and be fine. The issue will be "fall off" or "fade" after 4-5 minutes. If you car slows down a lot due to motor heat and battery draining faster due to more amp draw then the timing is to high. Depending how many big of a race I am attending and/or how lazy I am... I will adjust my timing a couple degrees higher in the qualifiers then I would in an 8 min main.
It's really hard to say unless you have a coil resistance meter to test the stators and a gauss meter to test the rotor strength. The lowest resistance stator is the one you would want to go with. Lower resistance = more efficient and will run cooler/better at higher timing.
A weaker rotor will make the RPM much higher, but doesn't mean that because the motor RPM is higher that it is a better motor. So a gauss meter to test rotor strength is helpful. Normally the higher strength rotor the better for stock type racing.
So... I guess if you are really board you test each motor using the same rotor. Try to get the amp draw identical to each other and see what RPM readouts there are. I would try to get them all to the same amp draw (around 3.5) and use thee RPM timing info to help pick your "best" motor(s). This all sounds like a lot of work and most likely this time is better off getting a better setup and track time.
Something else to consider on your timing is going to be how long of a race or qualifier you are in. A 5 min race you most likely can run something with the higher amp draw and be fine. The issue will be "fall off" or "fade" after 4-5 minutes. If you car slows down a lot due to motor heat and battery draining faster due to more amp draw then the timing is to high. Depending how many big of a race I am attending and/or how lazy I am... I will adjust my timing a couple degrees higher in the qualifiers then I would in an 8 min main.
02-04-2016, 08:43 AM
#9195
Are you racing on carpet or asphalt? If racing on carpet, you want to avoid letting the tires get soft at all. They will be much more consistent the closer they stay to the feel of new tires.
If you're running on asphalt I can't give any advice, but I can't imagine that you would want them too soft either. The front would wear out very fast.
If you're running on asphalt I can't give any advice, but I can't imagine that you would want them too soft either. The front would wear out very fast.