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Old 01-25-2015, 06:24 PM   #8461
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Originally Posted by JimmyMack12 View Post
I *just* happened to come across this post from a coupla years back about the RJSpeed "VTA" bodies.

There is a link on the main "home" page of RJSpeed.com to find all of the old BoLink molds. It states:

"RJ SPEED HAS ACQUIRED A QUANTITY OF BOLINK NOS CLASSIC BODIES. TO VIEW AND PURCHASE FROM THIS STOCK CLICK HERE."

Here is the link: http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm#rjspeed

...and here is a list of the available VTA bodies:

BOL2112 - RJ Speed 190 MM Wide 1/10 68 Camaro SS
BOL2113 - RJ Speed 190 MM Wide 1/10 65 Mustang GT Fastback
BOL2262 - RJ Speed 1/10 Classic & Trucks 68 Camaro SS Muscle Body (200mm?)
BOL2263 - RJ Speed 1/10 Classic & Trucks 65 Mustang GT Fastback (200mm?)
Please note the 190mm bodies probably won't cover the rear wheels...BOL 2262 and 2263 are the bodies specified in the rules
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:13 AM   #8462
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So during the teardown of my VBC Dynamics D06, with the aluminum chassis, I found the chassis to be just the slightest bit tweaked. This kind of aggrevated me as I I got the D06 for the aluminum chassis. I got it for primarily being almost 35g heavier than the stock chassis, so less weight needed to add.

This got me thinking, if for carpet driving we want stiffer chassis as well as heavier, why has no one made a stainless chassis for the more popular cars like the X-Ray or Associated. Im thinking a 2.25 thick stainless chassis would be just about right for stiffness and weight. Plus it would put all the needed added weight at the very bottom of the car.

Any thoughts on this?
Other than being more difficult to machine than aluminum it may work just fine. Any reason to not just run a thicker aluminum chassis, say 3 or 3.5mm?
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:16 AM   #8463
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Please note the 190mm bodies probably won't cover the rear wheels...BOL 2262 and 2263 are the bodies specified in the rules
The links will take you to RJ Speed's web page.

RJ Speed (aka. Bolink) part numbers:
1. #1054 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
2. #1055 - 1965 Ford Mustang

They are available to buy from RC Car King's web page:
http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm#rjspeed
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:11 AM   #8464
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Marv, I got a response from Rick Jordan, owner of RLJ Molding. He said that they are overloaded with mold work right now for their own projects and don't see any openings for the next few months. He also said that the demand for their RJ Speed '68 Chevrolet Camaro bodies and '65 Ford Mustang bodies has been very low, so adding yet another VTA body to the list is questionable.
I just read this and find it hilarious...

... from a bad business analysis standpoint that is...
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:40 PM   #8465
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I just read this and find it hilarious...

... from a bad business analysis standpoint that is...
So you have more information on his sales data and business model than he does?
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Old 01-26-2015, 06:44 PM   #8466
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So you have more information on his sales data and business model than he does?
I don't doubt sales are low.

The problem lies in the fact that he doesn't correlate the fact that sales are low to the reality that the bodies are butt ugly and years behind his competition.
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Old 01-26-2015, 07:51 PM   #8467
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i finally decided to build a vta car and use a Losi xxx-s that i bought on eBay used, sorry if the pictures are not to great, also accumulated some performance parts for it and used parts also , getting harder to find them, still have to get some wheels/tires and a body, what pinion gear would anyone recommend with a 118 spur gear
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:00 PM   #8468
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i finally decided to build a vta car and use a Losi xxx-s that i bought on eBay used, sorry if the pictures are not to great, also accumulated some performance parts for it and used parts also , getting harder to find them, still have to get some wheels/tires and a body, what pinion gear would anyone recommend with a 118 spur gear
For 25.5, you really need to find a spur adapter to run the smaller aftermarket spurs.

FDR-wise, you are trying to shoot for at least mid-3's.... the xxx-s has an internal ratio of 1.83.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:29 AM   #8469
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For 25.5, you really need to find a spur adapter to run the smaller aftermarket spurs.

FDR-wise, you are trying to shoot for at least mid-3's.... the xxx-s has an internal ratio of 1.83.
what do you mean by FDR-wise you are trying to shoot for at least mid-3's, do you know who makes gear adapters by chance
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:27 AM   #8470
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what do you mean by FDR-wise you are trying to shoot for at least mid-3's, do you know who makes gear adapters by chance
FDR = Final Drive Ratio

My first VTA chassis was a Losi XXX-S. The internal drive ratio of the XXX-S is 1.83. I highly recommend installing the red Losi XXX-S 86T Spur with Drive Pulley (LOSA3944). I used a 43T pinion in mine which gave a 3.66 FDR.

Here is a link to 86T Losi XXX-S Spur Gear on eBay.
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Old 01-27-2015, 08:41 AM   #8471
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thanks for the information, been out of touring cars for a while, trying to get back into it
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:40 AM   #8472
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what is the formula for the FDR - Final Drive Ratio
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Old 01-27-2015, 10:58 AM   #8473
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Originally Posted by quickta View Post
what is the formula for the FDR - Final Drive Ratio
FDR = Spur/Pinion*IDR

Given:
Spur = 86T
Pinion = 43T
IDR = 1.83
FDR = 3.66
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:59 AM   #8474
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On a track with a lot of infield, I like to gear in the low threes. (More like 3.8 so maybe that's high threes) That is a personal preference because VTA is about corner speed and I am not great at keeping it. So I have to gear it to get my pace back after I get a corner wrong, which is often. If I was better I might gear like the other guys.
Edit: Its gearing lower, but it's a higher FDR. The car is not going as far every time the motor turns over. More torque, less distance.
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:56 PM   #8475
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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
FDR = Spur/Pinion*IDR

Given:
Spur = 86T
Pinion = 43T
IDR = 1.83
FDR = 3.66
Also, keep in mind that there are many ways to skin a cat when it comes to arriving at the first part of the equation. 86/43=2. But so does 96/48 as well as 92/46.

The point being that you usually only have so much room to move your motor back and forth, so you have to find a combination that allows you to make incremental changes up and down.

I like to have it work out such that my motor screws are centered in their slots with a combo that puts me around 3.70. That way I can just change pinions and get from 3.4 to 4.0 pretty easily.

Pretty much just trial and error. But don't buy your spare spurs until you have it figured out.
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