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Old 01-21-2015, 02:48 PM   #8446
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from what I recall for hoyt, they also run plan VTA for motor rules, so it could be the motor you are referencing may be different than yours too and have different performance characterstics.

I also noticed that at the PRCP track that depending on how hot I can into the first turn then the infield, I saw different punch performance with the Novak 25.5 motors. Its like I needed to adjust my driving style to get the feel of more torque in the infield, I wish I could explain it better.
I think I get what you are sayn Cain. Wish you would have made it last night.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:02 PM   #8447
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Ok guys I have a gearing question. So on a small track, a higher FDR is desirable, correct? I was getting pulled on the infield pretty bad last race, so I asked the leader what FDR he was running, he said right at 4. I had mine geared for a 4.2. So with this info should I continue to go smaller with my pinion? Or am I way off base here. (new to on road so forgive my ignorance)
I thought I was at the 4.1, but looking again I am at 3.94, my motor temps with the fan running was 138 degrees after the 8 minute main, as your car would pull harder off the corner than mine, so I think your really close, just need to round the corner to carry more speed down the straightaway and you could probably go up, but its all in corner speed and staying off the wall, and we where really close on the infield as well, just corner entry was the hard part to keep up the speed
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:13 PM   #8448
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I thought I was at the 4.1, but looking again I am at 3.94, my motor temps with the fan running was 138 degrees after the 8 minute main, as your car would pull harder off the corner than mine, so I think your really close, just need to round the corner to carry more speed down the straightaway and you could probably go up, but its all in corner speed and staying off the wall, and we where really close on the infield as well, just corner entry was the hard part to keep up the speed
Dave, I thought I could pull you with the USGT car but not the VTA. But you have way more sense of whats going on than I do . I might try go up a couple teeth, work on getting a little more response from my steering and work on my entry speed.....then I'm gonna have you take my car for a couple laps so we can all see its not the driver . Thanks for the good info.
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Old 01-23-2015, 08:37 PM   #8449
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Ok, should have added this 1st off. I'm running a Boss Novak, timing is at 35degrees on the "pointer", the chassis is pretty free (xray t4) and I'm running the stock carpet setup in it right now. My motor temps were low 120's after a 5 minute heat. Should I be gearing for a 170 degree temp? I know my setup could be better, but it definitely didn't have the pull out of a corner like the faster cars.
fast cars in VTA won't pull you out of a corner on gearing. they will go into and through the corner without losing speed so they continue the speed coming out. they don't pull you they just don't slow down in a corner.

now if you are slowing down in the corners yes you will most likely run a higher fdr like a 3.80 to 4.0 as opposed to a 3.4 to 3.6 that the fast cars might be running. I have run as low as a 3.31 on a 90'x48' track.

VTA is all about corner speed
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:09 PM   #8450
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something to keep in mind for him is that they are running VTA, not USVTA for motor, so some in comparison can out torque him possibly.

I remember that issue prior to the rules changing as some guys vehicles made others look like they were standing still.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:50 PM   #8451
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nah, I'm with Nash. Fast VTA/USVTA cars are almost always in the 3.5 FDR range unless you have some freak motor. Regardless of the motor manufacturer.
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Old 01-23-2015, 09:57 PM   #8452
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the novaks use a 12.3mm rotor right? So in comparison to someone running say a 12.5 torque based rotor in there motor, I would think they would have an advantage for a tight track situation, or out of the corners punch?

hoyt: hopefully can make the next one, schedules look good just need weather to cooperate.
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Last edited by Cain; 01-23-2015 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 01-23-2015, 11:31 PM   #8453
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When my track ran not USVTA rules, I ran a 12.5 HT rotor in my TEKIN 25.5 no matter what I tried, the Novaks still performed better. Off the line and top end. In this class, it doesnt matter if its USVTA or the other guys rule set. It comes down to driver and set-up.

When you can run a whole race without having a board meeting or two and your only a couple tenths slower per lap, every lap, than the fast guy, thats when you should start to wonder if its your motor holding you back. Until then, look at everything else first.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:35 AM   #8454
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I was wondering about some of these rules on the VTA site and now makes me really wonder, first off

12.3 mm rotor diameter only (no "tuning" rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed).

and then

No modifications or optional parts allowed on motor can, endbell, stator, or rotor

as I think this is true

MOST IMPORTANTLY: If it's not in the rules, and does not encompass the spirit of slower, controlled racing with realistic looking cars, consider it illegal. This is called the "Spirit of VTA" Rule. The class is based on slower, equal playing field competition with less traction, minimal aerodynamic aids and mostly older carpet racing technology. The final objective is close, fair, wheel-to-wheel racing for all.

just when your over a half a second per lap off the fast guys it makes you really wonder, as I agree keeping it away from the wall makes you faster, but when they school you on the straightaway, it makes you really wonder

as when I say school it means, they follow you thru the infield and when you get to the straightaway, they put on the blinker and pass you like your sitting still and gain 15 feet of track
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Old 01-24-2015, 09:29 PM   #8455
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwddww34
Marv, I got a response from Rick Jordan, owner of RLJ Molding. He said that they are overloaded with mold work right now for their own projects and don't see any openings for the next few months. He also said that the demand for their RJ Speed '68 Chevrolet Camaro bodies and '65 Ford Mustang bodies has been very low, so adding yet another VTA body to the list is questionable.
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Considering when you go their website and to their bodies and their camaro and mustang bodies arent even listed for purchase, or even on the downloadable PDF of all their bodies......yeah would make sales numbers low. Personally I dont like the quality of their body designs. No where near the HPI bodies. More like the Parma
I *just* happened to come across this post from a coupla years back about the RJSpeed "VTA" bodies.

There is a link on the main "home" page of RJSpeed.com to find all of the old BoLink molds. It states:

"RJ SPEED HAS ACQUIRED A QUANTITY OF BOLINK NOS CLASSIC BODIES. TO VIEW AND PURCHASE FROM THIS STOCK CLICK HERE."

Here is the link: http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm#rjspeed

...and here is a list of the available VTA bodies:

BOL2112 - RJ Speed 190 MM Wide 1/10 68 Camaro SS
BOL2113 - RJ Speed 190 MM Wide 1/10 65 Mustang GT Fastback
BOL2262 - RJ Speed 1/10 Classic & Trucks 68 Camaro SS Muscle Body (200mm?)
BOL2263 - RJ Speed 1/10 Classic & Trucks 65 Mustang GT Fastback (200mm?)
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:51 AM   #8456
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I need to glue up some new VTA tires on chrome wheels. I'm looking for any shortcuts to removing the chrome in the areas that will have super glue...
I wanted to follow up after gluing tires this week. I was using the 5-spoke matte chrome wheels.

26mm - HPI #3815 (http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/3815)
36mm - HPI #3820 (http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/3820)

I started off using a q-tip dipped in acetone to rub off the chrome. With a lot of effort, the chrome eventually rubbed off. I also couldn't get to any tight areas where there was a 90 degree corner. Basically the results weren't worth the effort.

Luckily I had some 400 grit sand paper, so I switched to that instead. With a lot less effort, I was able to remove all of the chrome where I needed/wanted. It was also easy to get into the 90 corners.

----------

I've used various methods to remove the chrome before gluing (hobby knife, metal file, sand paper, rotory tool with wire brush) and the sand paper was the easiest for me to use. The rotory tool method probably was the fastest, but I didn't have a steady hand and ended up gouging the plastic on the wheel.
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:55 AM   #8457
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What Dremel attachment works best?
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Old 01-25-2015, 12:27 PM   #8458
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I wanted to share my motor experience from racing the past few weeks.

Last week another racer felt his Ballistic motor was slow. We suspected that he had really over-heated the motor and may have hurt the performance. We swapped motors and his lap times improved.

This week I took his motor and installed a replacement Novak rotor. Luckily the rotor was on sale at the local hobby store & I had a coupon, which meant it cost less than $20. The motor ran great and I was able to turn the fastest lap in qualifying and the main (running a TC4).

The one thing I've noticed is that regardless of the motor I've tried with my current setup, the lap times on my car have been fairly close. I've kept the FDR the same when switching and the only difference has been motor temp. I probably need to fine tune the timing and/or gearing for a specific motor.

----------

One final thought, I have rarely seen anyone getting blown away down the straights in VTA. When it does happen, it is usually an issue with the slower car (bad gearing, bad setup, excessive wheel slip out of corners, slipping diffs, etc).
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Old 01-25-2015, 01:38 PM   #8459
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So during the teardown of my VBC Dynamics D06, with the aluminum chassis, I found the chassis to be just the slightest bit tweaked. This kind of aggrevated me as I I got the D06 for the aluminum chassis. I got it for primarily being almost 35g heavier than the stock chassis, so less weight needed to add.

This got me thinking, if for carpet driving we want stiffer chassis as well as heavier, why has no one made a stainless chassis for the more popular cars like the X-Ray or Associated. Im thinking a 2.25 thick stainless chassis would be just about right for stiffness and weight. Plus it would put all the needed added weight at the very bottom of the car.

Any thoughts on this?
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Old 01-25-2015, 06:06 PM   #8460
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I've used various methods to remove the chrome before gluing (hobby knife, metal file, sand paper, rotory tool with wire brush) and the sand paper was the easiest for me to use. The rotory tool method probably was the fastest, but I didn't have a steady hand and ended up gouging the plastic on the wheel.
I will be back racing this Friday and I would be glad to show you my method for this using a rotory tool. Takes not more than a minute per wheel. Let me know if you are interested and I will bring my stuff so I can show you this Friday.
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