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Old 01-18-2015, 05:19 PM   #8431
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We switched from off-road on on-road. I loved the fact that the cars gripped so well and the speeds seemed higher. Even though I loved jumping trucks and buggies, if you land the least bit squirrely, you flip and get passed. We still run off-road from time to time, but on-road is what I prefer. VTA is what did it. Racing 70's muscle cars with Cragar style wheels? What could be better than that!

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Old 01-19-2015, 07:20 AM   #8432
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first "VTA" style running i Grand Forks area will happen tommorrow. More of a test and track setup day as they are trying to get running going again in the location they used to use a few years ago, but other than a few rule changes for the area (no innner body, any 25.5 motor) they are looking to use USVTA rules.

Hope to make it up there.
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Old 01-19-2015, 02:30 PM   #8433
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I need to glue up some new VTA tires on chrome wheels. I'm looking for any shortcuts to removing the chrome in the areas that will have super glue - specifically the area where the side wall of the tire attaches to the wheel.

When you glue the VTA wheel onto the tire at this point, the chrome is actually under/hidden by the wheel. If you don't remove the chrome before you glue the tire, it usually pulls off the wheel, which causes the outside of the tire to pull away from the wheel. Basically the tire gets glued to the chrome, but the chrome plating pulls away from the wheel. When the plating pulls off you can try to glue it back onto the wheel, but I've always had mixed results (which is why I remove the chrome plating).

I can obviously use some type of abrasive (sand paper, file, etc) to remove the chrome, but I'm being lazy and want to know if anyone has found a quicker/easier way to do this (without damaging the wheel). I was thinking of using a q-tip to apply some type of chemical over the chrome that I want removed and hope that it will just wipe away with a little bit of effort.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:29 PM   #8434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I need to glue up some new VTA tires on chrome wheels. I'm looking for any shortcuts to removing the chrome in the areas that will have super glue - specifically the area where the side wall of the tire attaches to the wheel.

When you glue the VTA wheel onto the tire at this point, the chrome is actually under/hidden by the wheel. If you don't remove the chrome before you glue the tire, it usually pulls off the wheel, which causes the outside of the tire to pull away from the wheel. Basically the tire gets glued to the chrome, but the chrome plating pulls away from the wheel. When the plating pulls off you can try to glue it back onto the wheel, but I've always had mixed results (which is why I remove the chrome plating).

I can obviously use some type of abrasive (sand paper, file, etc) to remove the chrome, but I'm being lazy and want to know if anyone has found a quicker/easier way to do this (without damaging the wheel). I was thinking of using a q-tip to apply some type of chemical over the chrome that I want removed and hope that it will just wipe away with a little bit of effort.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Try a Q-tip dipped in Acetone and if that doesn't work, try using a soft wire brush in a Dremel tool
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Old 01-19-2015, 04:42 PM   #8435
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Anyone still running the old Yokomo MR-4TC chassis? I picked up a special and any setup/gearing tips would be great..

thanks
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:21 AM   #8436
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How was everyone's VTA racing this last weekend?

We had a blast at the Omaha HobbyPlex. We run one qualifier (average of five fastest laps in an eight minute session) and three mains with inverted starts. TQ was decided by about 0.05 seconds, and all three mains had first and second separated by (I'm estimating) no more than one second for the entire race duration. Wow!
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:19 PM   #8437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I need to glue up some new VTA tires on chrome wheels. I'm looking for any shortcuts to removing the chrome in the areas that will have super glue - specifically the area where the side wall of the tire attaches to the wheel.
I've been using a stainless steel wire wheel in the dremel to remove the chrome on the sidewall, and also to buzz along the bead groove to rough up the surface a bit. Works beautifully. If I had a brass wheel I'd use that instead as its softer, but haven't gouged a wheel yet.

Muchmore Racing Instant Rubber Tire CA glue is fantastic with these HPI wheels and tires. Sets up super duper quick though. I've found that holding the wheel upright is necessary, so the glue runs down the bead.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:02 PM   #8438
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Ok guys I have a gearing question. So on a small track, a higher FDR is desirable, correct? I was getting pulled on the infield pretty bad last race, so I asked the leader what FDR he was running, he said right at 4. I had mine geared for a 4.2. So with this info should I continue to go smaller with my pinion? Or am I way off base here. (new to on road so forgive my ignorance)
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:45 PM   #8439
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Originally Posted by hoyt1967 View Post
Ok guys I have a gearing question. So on a small track, a higher FDR is desirable, correct? I was getting pulled on the infield pretty bad last race, so I asked the leader what FDR he was running, he said right at 4. I had mine geared for a 4.2. So with this info should I continue to go smaller with my pinion? Or am I way off base here. (new to on road so forgive my ignorance)
Could be a series of issues - timing could be off, drivetrain might not allow the car to roll freely through the corner, suspension set up might be scrubbing speed, or a combination of all three. I'd make sure the timing is advanced from the factory mark a minimum of 10 degrees, and start looking at vehicle setup to find the infield speed you need. Corner speed is everything, especially on carpet.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:52 PM   #8440
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from what I recall for hoyt, they also run plan VTA for motor rules, so it could be the motor you are referencing may be different than yours too and have different performance characterstics.

I also noticed that at the PRCP track that depending on how hot I can into the first turn then the infield, I saw different punch performance with the Novak 25.5 motors. Its like I needed to adjust my driving style to get the feel of more torque in the infield, I wish I could explain it better.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:07 PM   #8441
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anyone using the Ferrari 599xx body... nit sore what paint scheme I want.... dont want all red.. or just 1 colour..
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:45 PM   #8442
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Could be a series of issues - timing could be off, drivetrain might not allow the car to roll freely through the corner, suspension set up might be scrubbing speed, or a combination of all three. I'd make sure the timing is advanced from the factory mark a minimum of 10 degrees, and start looking at vehicle setup to find the infield speed you need. Corner speed is everything, especially on carpet.
Ok, should have added this 1st off. I'm running a Boss Novak, timing is at 35degrees on the "pointer", the chassis is pretty free (xray t4) and I'm running the stock carpet setup in it right now. My motor temps were low 120's after a 5 minute heat. Should I be gearing for a 170 degree temp? I know my setup could be better, but it definitely didn't have the pull out of a corner like the faster cars.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:58 PM   #8443
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Ok, should have added this 1st off. I'm running a Boss Novak, timing is at 35degrees on the "pointer", the chassis is pretty free (xray t4) and I'm running the stock carpet setup in it right now. My motor temps were low 120's after a 5 minute heat. Should I be gearing for a 170 degree temp? I know my setup could be better, but it definitely didn't have the pull out of a corner like the faster cars.
Not knowing the track dimensions, it's tough to say if you'd benefit from more timing or a higher (lower numerically) FDR. If it's a short track, add timing and see if motor performance picks up. If it's a longer track, add 5 degrees of timing and 4 teeth on the pinion. That should get you in the ballpark for all tracks with a straightaway of 70 feet or less.

That said, speed in and out of the corners is found in the chassis; the true challenge of participating in this class is finding all the speed you can in the chassis setup.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:09 PM   #8444
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Originally Posted by sschering View Post
Anyone still running the old Yokomo MR-4TC chassis? I picked up a special and any setup/gearing tips would be great..

thanks
I have two of them and I love them but I am faster with a newer chassis. Double cardigan joints from a BD5 helped. Front spool did not seem to work as well as the differential. At least for me on tight tracks i rolled through corners better with a ball diff.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:47 PM   #8445
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
That said, speed in and out of the corners is found in the chassis; the true challenge of participating in this class is finding all the speed you can in the chassis setup.
Thanks for the info. I agree with you on the setup...I have my work cut out.
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