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Old 04-19-2014, 09:11 AM   #6691
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Good night of racing VTA at Indy RC Raceway. We had two heats which was surprising since it was a perfect evening.

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Old 04-19-2014, 10:32 AM   #6692
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Default Getting lapped?

This may be a noob question but I have to ask. VTA was intended to keep cars somewhat even but I keep getting passed like I'm standing still on the straight always. So today as I was installing the vented end bells I started thinking, other than the honor system, what is keeping someone from taking a let say 17.5 ballistic motor and putting on the Boss VTA end bells and sleeve?
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Old 04-19-2014, 12:51 PM   #6693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
This may be a noob question but I have to ask. VTA was intended to keep cars somewhat even but I keep getting passed like I'm standing still on the straight always. So today as I was installing the vented end bells I started thinking, other than the honor system, what is keeping someone from taking a let say 17.5 ballistic motor and putting on the Boss VTA end bells and sleeve?
Have Jim or Ol Skool do a simple DC resistance test for tech inspection on each phase of the motor in question. A lower turn motor theoretically will have much less resistance than a 25.5. There are better methods of teching motors, but this is quick and easy for an RD to do.

BTW, Santiago's car is FAST! He was blowing past me at the AROC last week. Not calling you out, Ol Skool, just saying your car is fast!
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:01 PM   #6694
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp View Post
This may be a noob question but I have to ask. VTA was intended to keep cars somewhat even but I keep getting passed like I'm standing still on the straight always. So today as I was installing the vented end bells I started thinking, other than the honor system, what is keeping someone from taking a let say 17.5 ballistic motor and putting on the Boss VTA end bells and sleeve?
The plastic on the 17.5 stator is yellow. The 25.5 is black. If you look where the wires are soldered you can tech a motor at a glance.

This is another reason for all Novak motors.
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:40 PM   #6695
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Default For the record....

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Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Have Jim or Ol Skool do a simple DC resistance test for tech inspection on each phase of the motor in question. A lower turn motor theoretically will have much less resistance than a 25.5. There are better methods of teching motors, but this is quick and easy for an RD to do.

BTW, Santiago's car is FAST! He was blowing past me at the AROC last week. Not calling you out, Ol Skool, just saying your car is fast!
Yes my car was fast but I still was 2 laps back of jimmy Winn, and my tires were already blowing out on me so handling was for crap in the VTA main RJ, as for the question of the motors. Each startor that novak comes out with has its color code as mr. Craig has stated on the terminal ceramic part of the stator, I guess we will have to check a little bit more closer to the stators as well as batteries, speed controls now that discrepancies are being noted. It dosent take much to black out the color of the stator with a flat black paint and go by undetected because we are in a rush sometimes. I may want to look into the batteries as well because it doesn't take much to pop open a hard case and switch out the lipo to a bigger voltage and also go undetected, we just take it for granted that everyone we know is on the up and up. As a victim of noviceness I've already burned up two motors trying to find the fast path to catching up with the leaders.
While I do think novak is the way to go also, I also think that stickers for the timing marks should really be etched because it Doesn't take much to cheat in any class, people just have to be honest enough to actually see if they have skills and driving talent to win honestly.
My timing is set at the max 45 but I can see if you past that mark then your gonna be faster than everyone else and I'm sure you can see how easy a sticker is easily nudged over to help those who feel they need that edge to cheat.
Of course these are my opinions and aren't really worth much but it makes the brain wonder now doesn't it?
I'm fast now but I'm still 4th or 5 th place so while my driving skills are getting better, I'm still slow by today's standards lol.
Honest racers please don't give up and cheaters beware cause your only doing your self wrong.

Ol skool
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Old 04-19-2014, 02:52 PM   #6696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Have Jim or Ol Skool do a simple DC resistance test for tech inspection on each phase of the motor in question. A lower turn motor theoretically will have much less resistance than a 25.5. There are better methods of teching motors, but this is quick and easy for an RD to do.

BTW, Santiago's car is FAST! He was blowing past me at the AROC last week. Not calling you out, Ol Skool, just saying your car is fast!
Quote:
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Yes my car was fast but I still was 2 laps back of jimmy Winn, and my tires were already blowing out on me so handling was for crap in the VTA main RJ, as for the question of the motors. Each startor that novak comes out with has its color code as mr. Craig has stated on the terminal ceramic part of the stator, I guess we will have to check a little bit more closer to the stators as well as batteries, speed controls now that discrepancies are being noted. It dosent take much to black out the color of the stator with a flat black paint and go by undetected because we are in a rush sometimes. I may want to look into the batteries as well because it doesn't take much to pop open a hard case and switch out the lipo to a bigger voltage and also go undetected, we just take it for granted that everyone we know is on the up and up. As a victim of noviceness I've already burned up two motors trying to find the fast path to catching up with the leaders.
While I do think novak is the way to go also, I also think that stickers for the timing marks should really be etched because it Doesn't take much to cheat in any class, people just have to be honest enough to actually see if they have skills and driving talent to win honestly.
My timing is set at the max 45 but I can see if you past that mark then your gonna be faster than everyone else and I'm sure you can see how easy a sticker is easily nudged over to help those who feel they need that edge to cheat.
Of course these are my opinions and aren't really worth much but it makes the brain wonder now doesn't it?
I'm fast now but I'm still 4th or 5 th place so while my driving skills are getting better, I'm still slow by today's standards lol.
Honest racers please don't give up and cheaters beware cause your only doing your self wrong.

Ol skool
By no means was I accusing anyone, especially Ol Skool, he's a stand up guy who has helped me as well as everyone at Al's. This was just something that came to me while trying to squeeze as much speed as I can out of the 25.5. I'm also going to switch all my bearing to ceramics and see what it does.
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Old 04-19-2014, 04:17 PM   #6697
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Ol Skool, you taught me to blame it on the Comancheros!

I love VTA and coming down to run with you guys. Just wish I could find time to do more racing, can't even make it to my own club's events. Frankie and I have had some good battles, but we're still chasing Jimmy and Tommy. Steve is fast, too. And Todd and Jose! I've got to do some work on my old Schuies and I'm tempted into looking at ceramic bearings as well.
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:26 PM   #6698
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Looking to get started in VTA. Ive ran and done very well (regional champion etc) in all forms of r/c racing since 1994. Just looking to have some fun now and not spend a ton of $$ doing it. What's a good affordable chassis to pick up that will run up front and win races? Do I need the new $400-500 kits to do so 6.2 etc?

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:39 PM   #6699
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Looking to get started in VTA. Ive ran and done very well (regional champion etc) in all forms of r/c racing since 1994. Just looking to have some fun now and not spend a ton of $$ doing it. What's a good affordable chassis to pick up that will run up front and win races? Do I need the new $400-500 kits to do so 6.2 etc?

Thanks
I run a $65 Turnigy TD10 which is really the Sakura Zero S. I have proven to be at the top of our local VTA club racing at-will. Works wonderfully.

I have one for sale as well as 2 very nice T.O.P. Photons that have both been gone through and any/all bad or bent parts replaced, new bearings, etc...

I am selling the TOPs for $150 each (one has a Spektrum S6090 Servo shoe-glued in) and the other has the floating servo mount.

I also have other VTA components such as motor and ESC if you are interested.

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Any way. direct answer to your question is NO, you do NOT need the latest greatest $500-$600 chassis for VTA.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:38 PM   #6700
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Shot me a pm on the TD10 that's for sale. I was looking at those but they are currently out of stock.

Thanks
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:49 PM   #6701
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Looking to get started in VTA. Ive ran and done very well (regional champion etc) in all forms of r/c racing since 1994. Just looking to have some fun now and not spend a ton of $$ doing it. What's a good affordable chassis to pick up that will run up front and win races? Do I need the new $400-500 kits to do so 6.2 etc?

Thanks
Find a TC3 in good shape. I ran one today for the first time in VTA. Had never ran the car prior to that. Won my second qual and was doing well in the main until the hack-fest that broke out ruined my race. My fastest laps where pretty close to the guys that run the class all the time, including one former national champion. it's a good, solid car that can be found dirt cheap for VTA. And you won't find yourself trying to cram extra weight into it, it's already on the heavier side. Ready to race, with driver figure, I was right at the USVTA weight requirement.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:12 AM   #6702
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Originally Posted by Ol skool nitro View Post
Each startor that novak comes out with has its color code as mr. Craig has stated on the terminal ceramic part of the stator, I guess we will have to check a little bit more closer to the stators as well as batteries, speed controls now that discrepancies are being noted. It dosent take much to black out the color of the stator with a flat black paint and go by undetected because we are in a rush


Pretty hard to counterfeit those, including the script.

As I've said before, VTA is a corner-speed class. While getting the best stuff is nice, the rest of it is more than adequate if the user is committed to getting the best out of the stuff he/she has.

I can't wait to go shake down my new "island of lost toys" VTA ride.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:42 AM   #6703
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Find a TC3 in good shape ... it's already on the heavier side. Ready to race, with driver figure, I was right at the USVTA weight requirement.
wow how did you manage that ?? my TC3 RTR without any lead is just around 1450 and thats with a heavy AE DS1015 servo, HW Justock, SM 3001 rx and reedy 5000 wolfpack.
My mcallister trans am comes in at 101g and I have 14 lead bricks(98g) to get it up to 1553g
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:33 AM   #6704
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wow how did you manage that ?? my TC3 RTR without any lead is just around 1450 and thats with a heavy AE DS1015 servo, HW Justock, SM 3001 rx and reedy 5000 wolfpack.
My mcallister trans am comes in at 101g and I have 14 lead bricks(98g) to get it up to 1553g
I have one of the older Havoc esc's, don't know the weight but it is pretty big. HPI Camaro shell with shoe goo in the nose and tail. Sprayed a little flex-seal in too to aid with durability. I have a clip-on heatsink with fan. Once I got the driver figure put in I was up to weight. Point is I didn't have to do what I have done with other cars... struggle to find places to add weight due to narrow chassis and lighter, more modern design.
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Old 04-20-2014, 12:06 PM   #6705
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Default motor checking..

At our local Hobbytown, we race carpet on a very short track. NOVAK motors, proper esc's, and we weigh...1550g, and we use a lazer tach to keep 2550RPM. This keeps things a bit more even. In theory...you could run any stator, I think, since the RPM's are checked.
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