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Old 12-26-2013, 09:42 PM   #5761
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System double post.
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:45 PM   #5762
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Can anyone confirm that the Edge + Boss combo comes with red wire stator?
Yes. Just received the motor and it does have red wire.

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Old 12-29-2013, 03:53 PM   #5763
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Default 25.5 BOSS MOTOR Problems

Been having problems with the motor stalling and not wanting to run, but with a gentle push it runs fine until you stop or slow and then try to start again. From past experience it sounded like either too much timing or a bad/loose sensor wire. Wasn't too much timing so I switched out the sensor wire with the one that was on the 21.5 that was in the car (when it ran fine) and still had the problem with the BOSS. Narrowed the neutral range in my TX and increased the BOSS timing to the MAX and it improved some but still had the problem. Pulled the senor wire completely out of the ESC and had the same condition but all of the time. So I suspect there is a problem with a sensor in the endbell.

Since I'm trying to make a race next Saturday, is there anything I can do here without having to send the motor back to NOVAK? I'll look for a Novak thread and post there too

Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:42 PM   #5764
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make sure you DONT over tighten the timing screws on the endbell as this will damage the sensor board .

sometimes you can wiggle the end bell and just snug the screws in and it will work fine
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:42 PM   #5765
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Been having problems with the motor stalling and not wanting to run, but with a gentle push it runs fine until you stop or slow and then try to start again. From past experience it sounded like either too much timing or a bad/loose sensor wire. Wasn't too much timing so I switched out the sensor wire with the one that was on the 21.5 that was in the car (when it ran fine) and still had the problem with the BOSS. Narrowed the neutral range in my TX and increased the BOSS timing to the MAX and it improved some but still had the problem. Pulled the senor wire completely out of the ESC and had the same condition but all of the time. So I suspect there is a problem with a sensor in the endbell.

Since I'm trying to make a race next Saturday, is there anything I can do here without having to send the motor back to NOVAK? I'll look for a Novak thread and post there too

Any help will be appreciated.
just buy the sensor board. 5 minute repair.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:53 PM   #5766
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Been having problems with the motor stalling and not wanting to run, but with a gentle push it runs fine until you stop or slow and then try to start again. From past experience it sounded like either too much timing or a bad/loose sensor wire. Wasn't too much timing so I switched out the sensor wire with the one that was on the 21.5 that was in the car (when it ran fine) and still had the problem with the BOSS. Narrowed the neutral range in my TX and increased the BOSS timing to the MAX and it improved some but still had the problem. Pulled the senor wire completely out of the ESC and had the same condition but all of the time. So I suspect there is a problem with a sensor in the endbell.

Since I'm trying to make a race next Saturday, is there anything I can do here without having to send the motor back to NOVAK? I'll look for a Novak thread and post there too

Any help will be appreciated.
If you have another Novak Ballistic motor, you can swap the sensor end end bell and see if that cures your problem. If it does, then chances the sensor board is bad. Be sure to check the end play of the rotor so it is not too tight when you swap end bells.
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:24 PM   #5767
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If you have another Novak Ballistic motor, you can swap the sensor end end bell and see if that cures your problem. If it does, then chances the sensor board is bad. Be sure to check the end play of the rotor so it is not too tight when you swap end bells.
Thanks all - you were spot on - it is the sensor board. I found a NOVAK thread here on RCTECH & there was lots of discussion about NOVAK sensor board issues. One post said you can check to see if it is the senor board by loosening the endbell scews and if the problem goes away its the senor board. I did and tested it in the driveway before it got totally dark outside and the problem went away, or at least well enough that the car doesn't stop any more and need a push, so I can race Saturady and send the motor back Sunday. Now I have to keep the end bell loose enough to keep it running and tight enough so the timing doesn't change. What fun! Just hope I don't get rained out for a 3rd week in a row here in San Antonio - shouldn't be saying that as much as we need the rain!
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:27 PM   #5768
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Thanks all - you were spot on - it is the sensor board. I found a NOVAK thread here on RCTECH & there was lots of discussion about NOVAK sensor board issues. One post said you can check to see if it is the senor board by loosening the endbell scews and if the problem goes away its the senor board. I did and tested it in the driveway before it got totally dark outside and the problem went away, or at least well enough that the car doesn't stop any more and need a push, so I can race Saturady and send the motor back Sunday. Now I have to keep the end bell loose enough to keep it running and tight enough so the timing doesn't change. What fun! Just hope I don't get rained out for a 3rd week in a row here in San Antonio - shouldn't be saying that as much as we need the rain!
I had a very similar sounding problem and it turned out to actually be the sensor cable. A quick change and no issues since.
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:57 PM   #5769
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
Thanks all - you were spot on - it is the sensor board. I found a NOVAK thread here on RCTECH & there was lots of discussion about NOVAK sensor board issues. One post said you can check to see if it is the senor board by loosening the endbell scews and if the problem goes away its the senor board. I did and tested it in the driveway before it got totally dark outside and the problem went away, or at least well enough that the car doesn't stop any more and need a push, so I can race Saturady and send the motor back Sunday. Now I have to keep the end bell loose enough to keep it running and tight enough so the timing doesn't change. What fun! Just hope I don't get rained out for a 3rd week in a row here in San Antonio - shouldn't be saying that as much as we need the rain!
you just have to be careful not to crank on the screws. You can buy a replacement sensor board without sending it in to Novak. Takes 5 minutes to replace it.
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:21 AM   #5770
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John.. Novak has a 120 day warranty so call them today. You might get lucky and have a replacement one by Saturday. USPS Priority mail is my favorite way of delivery. Calling Amain.com myself at 9:30 am for some VTA 5 spoke black rims cause HobbyTown only had chrome one.
Cant wait for the 4th for some VTA action..hope to see you there.

☆frankie p☆
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Old 12-30-2013, 02:12 AM   #5771
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I had a very similar sounding problem and it turned out to actually be the sensor cable. A quick change and no issues since.
Yep been there and done that before, that's why I swapped out the sensor cable first with one I knew was good. Unfortunately, it didn' fix the problem.

Like Frank said the motor is under warrantee & I still have the receipt from Tower so I'll just send it back to Novak Sunday after the race and let them fix the thing. From the Novak Thread there are other issues with the Ballistic series of motors, missing or wrong sized spacers causing the bearings to rub on the sensor boards, so while replacing the sensor board is easy, it may not fix the problem.
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Old 12-30-2013, 02:37 AM   #5772
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John.. Novak has a 120 day warranty so call them today. You might get lucky and have a replacement one by Saturday. USPS Priority mail is my favorite way of delivery. Calling Amain.com myself at 9:30 am for some VTA 5 spoke black rims cause HobbyTown only had chrome one.
Cant wait for the 4th for some VTA action..hope to see you there.

☆frankie p☆
Those will be some really expensive black wheels! Not sure I would use USPS as they do not guarantee any specific delivery date (found out that the hard way). Nothing wrong with chrome - I'll bring my chrome Martini Porsche on the HPI 4wd chassis.

Me too & hope we don't get rained out. Wish Al had not reverted back to Saturday racing. He told me he had changed to Sunday racing so I got my Trans Am car ready & thought I had died and gone to heaven; Off road on Saturday and On-road on Sunday (at least until the wife got irritated!). Now I'll have to make some hard choices on where to play.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:00 AM   #5773
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John.. Novak has a 120 day warranty so call them today. You might get lucky and have a replacement one by Saturday. USPS Priority mail is my favorite way of delivery. Calling Amain.com myself at 9:30 am for some VTA 5 spoke black rims cause HobbyTown only had chrome one.
Cant wait for the 4th for some VTA action..hope to see you there.

☆frankie p☆
I have no problem with AMAIN, I use them a lot also but TQRCRACING has a lot of VTA parts, they ship same day and they are a site advertiser and the prices are very good. Customer service is GREAT!!!

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...02&s_maker_id=
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:35 PM   #5774
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I have a question on the driver inserts. Amain doesnt have any that I can find, I did a general google search and found some online stores that carry them. How do these fit into your bodies? I not a big fan on any of the designs.... I also saw about 30 pages back ppl saying as long as theres head and shoulders anything goes, so if I wanted I could just put a lego characters top half and place weight lower?
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:38 PM   #5775
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No

"ANY suitable 1/10 driver figure is legal-these are readily available examples"
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