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Old 11-28-2013, 01:35 PM   #5581
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I took all the bearings out and degreased them with brake cleaner. The bearings are dirt and grime free and spin very freely. But when I add the high speed bearing oil made by Yeah racing, the bearings don't spin freely because of the oil. Does anyone run with dry bearings? Should I oil them? Which is faster? Oil or no oil?
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #5582
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I took all the bearings out and degreased them with brake cleaner. The bearings are dirt and grime free and spin very freely. But when I add the high speed bearing oil made by Yeah racing, the bearings don't spin freely because of the oil. Does anyone run with dry bearings? Should I oil them? Which is faster? Oil or no oil?
I'd never consider using an unlubricated bearing. Each clean bearing needs only a drop or two of oil, and shouldn't cause the bearings to add any additional resistance.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:01 PM   #5583
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I use the blue Epic oil, very thin and lightweight. After the cleaning I'll put 2 drops in each. Initially it slows the freespin down, but once it has been spun in the bearing for a while they will free back up. On the blue rubber cover bearings Xray uses I'll take a small round file and remove the rubber from the center of the cover before I reinstall it, thus eliminating any possible drag from the cover itself. It also makes it easier to add oil to them between cleanings.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #5584
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I will use oil.

So run blue rubber shield on the side facing outside only?
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:06 AM   #5585
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I actually run both sides on my bearings as I believe it helps keep a small amount of lube inside the bearing. After removing the lip of rubber in the center there isn't any chance of the cover causing any resistance ( if re-installed correctly ). There is alot of racers who run their bearings faceless on the inside, nothing wrong with that way either. Its just really what ever way you prefer to do it.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:11 PM   #5586
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd View Post
For some bodies, (HPI 70 Boss for example) you will have to cut back the foam bumper to get a good fit/lineup of the wheel wells.
I didn't have to do that. It was a very snug fit, but I didn't have to trim my bumper. Yokomo SD
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:29 PM   #5587
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any chance this ESC will be approved?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Brushless-ESC
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:38 PM   #5588
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any chance this ESC will be approved?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Brushless-ESC
It meets all usvta esc requirements so should see it on the list soon seeing its now available
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:22 AM   #5589
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I actually run both sides on my bearings as I believe it helps keep a small amount of lube inside the bearing. After removing the lip of rubber in the center there isn't any chance of the cover causing any resistance ( if re-installed correctly ). There is alot of racers who run their bearings faceless on the inside, nothing wrong with that way either. Its just really what ever way you prefer to do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
I will use oil.

So run blue rubber shield on the side facing outside only?
Quote:
Originally Posted by alloyslash View Post
I use the blue Epic oil, very thin and lightweight. After the cleaning I'll put 2 drops in each. Initially it slows the freespin down, but once it has been spun in the bearing for a while they will free back up. On the blue rubber cover bearings Xray uses I'll take a small round file and remove the rubber from the center of the cover before I reinstall it, thus eliminating any possible drag from the cover itself. It also makes it easier to add oil to them between cleanings.
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Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
I'd never consider using an unlubricated bearing. Each clean bearing needs only a drop or two of oil, and shouldn't cause the bearings to add any additional resistance.
I gotta be the only person that runs the bearings as is, including rubber seals and my car is quite competitive as is

I've tried doing all the voodoo to the bearings, but to me, I never saw much of an improvement - so I just stopped...I guess I'm just lazy and that's where that extra .001 i'm always looking for is
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:34 AM   #5590
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I use the Avid metal shielded bearings, available for $1 each. I'll add a drop of light oil to each bearing prior to installation, and replace the bearing once it's on the verge of failure. No voodoo, extra effort, or magic oil required.
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:36 AM   #5591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
I use the Avid metal shielded bearings, available for $1 each. I'll add a drop of light oil to each bearing prior to installation, and replace the bearing once it's on the verge of failure. No voodoo, extra effort, or magic oil required.
avid's are in all of my cars as well for the $$, they are MORE then worth it
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:37 AM   #5592
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Associated TC6.x VTA racers - quick question for you... If you wanted to gear your car at an FDR of 3.4, what size spur would you use? A local racer is setting up a VTA car, and wanted to know what spurs he'd need. Any help you could provide would be appreciated.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:32 PM   #5593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oeoeo327 View Post
Associated TC6.x VTA racers - quick question for you... If you wanted to gear your car at an FDR of 3.4, what size spur would you use? A local racer is setting up a VTA car, and wanted to know what spurs he'd need. Any help you could provide would be appreciated.
Assuming all Spur/Pinion gears are 64-Pitch, here are a couple options for gearing the TC6.x:
  1. Spur = 88T; Pinion = 51T; FDR = 3.45
  2. Spur = 88T; Pinion = 52T; FDR = 3.38
  3. Spur = 90T; Pinion = 52T; FDR = 3.46
  4. Spur = 90T; Pinion = 53T; FDR = 3.40
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:41 PM   #5594
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I believe the issue with the TC6.x is that you run into pinion/spur fitment or engagement issues easily. For mine, I'm pretty sure I had to run a 96t spur in order to be geared that tall.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:41 PM   #5595
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So the internal gear ratio is 2.0 for tc6..

FDR= spur/pinion X 2.0
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