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Old 09-14-2013, 08:05 AM   #5131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
Brakes would really suffer, and pull coming out of corners IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wwddww34 View Post
A 4WD car converted to a RWD will always push like a dump truck in every turn. Guaranteed the RWD car will loose a race against a 4WD car.
My question was more to the point of having ALL the cars in the race do it, not to do it to try to gain an advantage. Most of the rules seem to be aimed at slowing the cars down and making it a driver's race, and not a race to be won by the fastest motor or the stickiest tires....

Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
Yes, it's quite fun! You will need to remove the front belt and drive shafts (since you don't want the diff coupling the front tires together).

Remove all trail braking (drag brake) from the ESC or radio. The car will have much better turn-in, especially if you usually run a very tight or viscous front diff. Conversely, you may pick up some understeer on the corner exit, since the diff won't be pulling the front end around.

You can either set the brakes so the rear doesn't lock up, which also doesn't give much braking, or tap the brakes near the entrance of a corner to get the car sideways to scrub off speed. That takes good reflexes!

Removing the drag from the belt and bearings will gain you a little horsepower and help top speed.

On most tracks, including any with tight, low-speed corners, you'll turn slower times with RWD than with 4WD. But there are a few rare occasions when running RWD will be faster. Running RWD on a big, flowing track with no slow corners (like a 1/8 nitro track, or a big oval) can be an advantage, both from the horsepower gain and because eliminating the front tires scrubbing against each other (from diff drag) will give higher lateral acceleration.
THAAAAT's the kind of feedback I was looking for, THANKS!
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:52 AM   #5132
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy View Post
My question was more to the point of having ALL the cars in the race do it, not to do it to try to gain an advantage. Most of the rules seem to be aimed at slowing the cars down and making it a driver's race, and not a race to be won by the fastest motor or the stickiest tires....



THAAAAT's the kind of feedback I was looking for, THANKS!
howardcano summed it up in a much more elaborate fashion than I initially did. You certainly will be able to dive into the corners with good speed. The main issue would be braking...not a problem on a big, flowing track- but on a smaller, tighter arrangement it's going to be a challenge... I say give it a shot one time. I think you will go back to 4wd though.
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:40 PM   #5133
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ah, gotcha. I misunderstood your original post. Sorry about that!

I'm going to suggest it to the local club, just to try for an informal race or something. I like trying different things. I'd rather have 10 guys within 10 seconds than 1 guy 10 laps ahead of everyone else, so shaking things up with a different challenge is sometimes fun.
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Old 09-16-2013, 05:05 PM   #5134
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Default Hey RobK

Body Specifications:
Late '60s to early '70s American pony car Vintage Trans-Am bodies only.


Bolink part numbers:
BL2262 '68 Chevrolet Camaro
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2262

BL2263 '65 Ford Mustang
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2263


HPI part numbers:
17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
104926 - 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY
For the HPI Mustangs which are not provided with a spoiler:
A lexan spoiler of 16mm total height from trunk deck, and overall chord of 20mm is allowable. All other bodies must use the spoiler included with that specific body set as intended. Built in spoilers may not be enhanced. 17546 - 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (scale wing ok)
105106 - 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER BODY


Parma part numbers:
10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang

Protoform part numbers:
#1526 - J71

McAllister Racing part numbers:
#286- 1969 Mustang body
#295- 1970 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am VTA body- 1/10- 200mm
Attached Thumbnails
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-1014443_10151775159114863_372756295_n.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-890.jpg  
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:20 PM   #5135
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=8127

Been using the t3 12 basic asphalt setup in vta. but I have problems with the rear of the car being very lose. I was wondering if anyone could point me to set up that may Hlp ?
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:34 PM   #5136
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What is the meaning of this cryptic message?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
Body Specifications:
Late '60s to early '70s American pony car Vintage Trans-Am bodies only.


Bolink part numbers:
BL2262 '68 Chevrolet Camaro
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2262

BL2263 '65 Ford Mustang
Also known as RJ Speed Part # BOL2263


HPI part numbers:
17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
104926 - 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY
For the HPI Mustangs which are not provided with a spoiler:
A lexan spoiler of 16mm total height from trunk deck, and overall chord of 20mm is allowable. All other bodies must use the spoiler included with that specific body set as intended. Built in spoilers may not be enhanced. 17546 - 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 (scale wing ok)
105106 - 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER BODY


Parma part numbers:
10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang

Protoform part numbers:
#1526 - J71

McAllister Racing part numbers:
#286- 1969 Mustang body
#295- 1970 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am VTA body- 1/10- 200mm
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #5137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robk View Post
What is the meaning of this cryptic message?
Maybe you didn't see the thumbnails at the bottom of DARKSIDE's post.

He want's to see this:



on this:



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Old 09-18-2013, 05:58 PM   #5138
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I know exactly what it means...I'm just messing with him since he's like a 5 year old on Christmas eve...
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:16 PM   #5139
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I know exactly what it means...I'm just messing with him since he's like a 5 year old on Christmas eve...
ROTFLMAO
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:25 PM   #5140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Maybe you didn't see the thumbnails at the bottom of DARKSIDE's post.

He want's to see this:





(in my best soup Nazi voice) NO STICKER FOR YOU!

Well, without me, he doesn't get any . I will have them with this weekend
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Old 09-18-2013, 06:36 PM   #5141
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Got my new 25.5 motor for the Florida State Series, were runing ROAR rules this year so decided to try something new, for $38 shipped to your door its hard to say no
Really like the how the timing is limited, cant go past no matter what

Will run it back to back with the novak to see if and what difference there is.

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Old 09-18-2013, 07:37 PM   #5142
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Originally Posted by Rojna View Post
Got my new 25.5 motor for the Florida State Series, were runing ROAR rules this year so decided to try something new, for $38 shipped to your door its hard to say no
Really like the how the timing is limited, cant go past no matter what

Will run it back to back with the novak to see if and what difference there is.

You know there are 3 different timing sensor boards. The stock is 0-10, then there are 11-20,21-30,31-40, 41+. You will want the 20+ and the 30+
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #5143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
Maybe you didn't see the thumbnails at the bottom of DARKSIDE's post.

He want's to see this:



on this:



It looks like you would have to use low profile shock mounts or IFS
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:06 AM   #5144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ercwhtsd View Post
You know there are 3 different timing sensor boards. The stock is 0-10, then there are 11-20,21-30,31-40, 41+. You will want the 20+ and the 30+
Yep, I dont run a lot of timing in my novak so should be fine with the 10* sensor.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:36 AM   #5145
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Love the look of the body but also looks like very little to no wheel travel in the front whatsoever. much less get the front shock tower to fit.
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