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Old 08-02-2013, 11:39 AM   #4966
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here is a good deal...imo...for anybody looking to get into USVTA

http://teamnovak.com/shop/index.php?...roducts_id=504

Ballistic 25.5T Brushless Motor [Factory-Rebuilt]

(#S3625V)


$79.00 $69.00
Save: 13% off
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Old 08-02-2013, 12:56 PM   #4967
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Can anyone tell me what VTA legal batteries are out there that have the nubs on the bottom of the pack? I need the nubs to keep my battery from sliding around in the chassis.

Thanks,
Chad
With my XXX-S, I just used a combination of strapping tape, the factory strap, and a foam spacer to keep the pack secure in the position I chose. Or you could try the factory strap and some of that servo tape Parma sells (re-usable) on the bottom of the pack to help it stay put on the chassis.

Don't think you're going to find many packs designed to fit into the c-cell slots of your car.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #4968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad View Post
Can anyone tell me what VTA legal batteries are out there that have the nubs on the bottom of the pack? I need the nubs to keep my battery from sliding around in the chassis.

Thanks,
Chad
I use some Shoe Goo and apply small beads to the battery aligned with the slots in the chassis. And when need the Shoe Goo peals right off.
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:35 PM   #4969
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I use some Shoe Goo and apply small beads to the battery aligned with the slots in the chassis. And when need the Shoe Goo peals right off.
Great idea!
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:17 PM   #4970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad View Post
Can anyone tell me what VTA legal batteries are out there that have the nubs on the bottom of the pack? I need the nubs to keep my battery from sliding around in the chassis.

Thanks,
Chad
I make "keys" (pieces to fit the slots in the chassis) from flat fiberglass or carbon fiber, place the battery in the desired location in the car, then flip the car upside down and stick the keys to the battery with servo tape. One key on each end of the battery keeps the battery in place very well.

When the battery finally wears out, I remove the keys and use them on a new battery.
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:40 PM   #4971
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I use some Shoe Goo and apply small beads to the battery aligned with the slots in the chassis. And when need the Shoe Goo peals right off.
That's a good one if you have plenty of time between races, and you aren't swapping packs constantly. Shoe goo rocks, you can mount everything with it.
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:22 PM   #4972
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I'm using a Kyosho TF5 Shaft Drive car. I have 2 IB5000 packs with the nubs on the bottom, but they are over 5 years old and starting to puff up. I also have some 3800 Check Point batteries with nubs, but they are only 30 or 35c. So I was just looking for something fresh with a little more C's.

Right now I use strapping tape to secure the batteries. I just like the nubs so they won't move in a crash.

I like some of the ideas you guys posted. Never really though about shoe goo or some spacers I can attach with tape. I'll see what I can come up with.

Thanks, for the ideas.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:08 PM   #4973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrad View Post
I'm using a Kyosho TF5 Shaft Drive car. I have 2 IB5000 packs with the nubs on the bottom, but they are over 5 years old and starting to puff up. I also have some 3800 Check Point batteries with nubs, but they are only 30 or 35c. So I was just looking for something fresh with a little more C's.

Right now I use strapping tape to secure the batteries. I just like the nubs so they won't move in a crash.

I like some of the ideas you guys posted. Never really though about shoe goo or some spacers I can attach with tape. I'll see what I can come up with.

Thanks, for the ideas.
This Turnigy Nano-Tech pack has nubs:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

It's a pack that I use in my Tamiya Minis. They're pretty light, too. Actually, too light. I've had to add some weight to the bottom of the pack. I would imagine it would be VTA legal at the local level. It's hard cased and it's under 5000 mAh.
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:05 AM   #4974
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has anyone tried these

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-car-lipo.html
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:13 AM   #4975
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Reedy Lipo wolf packs have nubs.... But most now just grind the edges of to fit lipos.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:24 AM   #4976
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Reedy Lipo wolf packs have nubs.... But most now just grind the edges of to fit lipos.
which ones?...none Im aware of...I run the 5000 25c...and they are flat
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:33 PM   #4977
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How does one tell the difference between a Novak 25.5 stator vs. a 21.5 stator?
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:56 PM   #4978
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The 25.5 is black under the solder tabs and the 21.5 is green. I am not a huge fan of novak but they really made it simple to tech these motors and they should get credit for that. Wish others would do something similar. Then just maybe USVTA could have the oportunity to possibly get more than 1 motor choice.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:58 PM   #4979
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The 21.5 stator has a green plastic collar under the solder tabs, the 25.5 has a black collar.
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:17 PM   #4980
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I haven't ran this class yet, but I'm all ready to go. Been hearing and reading about all the fun, now its time to join in on it
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