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Old 04-22-2013, 09:21 PM   #4576
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Do these have a crawler mode? Sounds like a crawler ESC setting as those guys don't use delay between forward and backwards.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #4577
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Well, I just did a test on the bench and I can go from throttle to brake to throttle with no delay whatsoever. I even tried partial throttle and brake positions and had the same results. So is it something that only happens under load?

Here's a thought. My Savox 1257 is a known power hog. Usually when I get this delay it's entering a corner. I wonder if maybe the ESC is browning out when braking and turning simultaneously? I've got a glitch buster. Maybe I'll install that for Sunday's race to see if that helps any....
Yeah try the glitch buster next
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:11 PM   #4578
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Savox are known to cause ESC glitches/power drops

When I first started VTA I thought my esc was doing this, turned out I just wasn't giving enough throttle for the motor rpm to be faster than the corner speed due to the LOW power of the 25.5
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:24 PM   #4579
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Do these have a crawler mode? Sounds like a crawler ESC setting as those guys don't use delay between forward and backwards.
Not sure. We crawlers definitely don't use any kind of delay, that's for sure. But I'm not actively engaging reverse. It's possible that I'm modulating the brakes entering a corner and it's possible that action is making the ESC interpret it as an engagement of reverse. I really don't think that's the case. Usually, when I apply the brakes, I apply them in one motion and then roll off the brakes....not on/off/on/off the brakes. Hopefully that make sense.

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Yeah try the glitch buster next
Yep, I will. Hopeful that's the issue here.

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Savox are known to cause ESC glitches/power drops

When I first started VTA I thought my esc was doing this, turned out I just wasn't giving enough throttle for the motor rpm to be faster than the corner speed due to the LOW power of the 25.5
Yeah, the Savox servos are known to do that. I'll find out this weekend after I install the glitch buster. The issue definitely isn't the lack of power (not that these motors have much power).
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:30 PM   #4580
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Not sure. We crawlers definitely don't use any kind of delay, that's for sure. But I'm not actively engaging reverse. It's possible that I'm modulating the brakes entering a corner and it's possible that action is making the ESC interpret it as an engagement of reverse. I really don't think that's the case. Usually, when I apply the brakes, I apply them in one motion and then roll off the brakes....not on/off/on/off the brakes. Hopefully that make sense.
Yup, I know when I have trouble with my esc is it cause I programmed the throttle range wrong on the ESC, have it in the wrong mode, or have bumped my throttle trim on the radio.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:42 PM   #4581
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open up the deadband@neutral
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:34 PM   #4582
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Anyone know if tank power lipos are any good?
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:43 AM   #4583
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Can you tell me what you notice when you have max drive set high? My understanding based on the manual is that it applies throttle quicker. Does that make it more difficult to apply the throttle smoothly?

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Old 04-25-2013, 08:51 AM   #4584
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Anybody using he Speedpassion Reventon Stock Club ESC in VTA?
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:57 PM   #4585
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going from carpet to asphalt should i change my ride height from vta rules min height of 5mm to higher height to keep the chassis from rubbing the asphalt ?
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Old 04-25-2013, 12:59 PM   #4586
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going from carpet to asphalt should i change my ride height from vta rules min height of 5mm to higher height to keep the chassis from rubbing the asphalt ?
Unless you are running on concrete or a very well prepared surface, yes i would raise it up.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:00 PM   #4587
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going from carpet to asphalt should i change my ride height from vta rules min height of 5mm to higher height to keep the chassis from rubbing the asphalt ?
I run 5mm on asphalt, but don't have issues with rubbing the chassis or body. Although, be aware there may be bumps or dips on the track that may require a ride height change.
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:57 PM   #4588
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If you are concerned about the bottom of your chassis getting all scratched up, you can put hockey stick tape on it too. You can buy it at some hobby shops. Its the stuff the boat guys use to seal their hatches. Its good stuff. Really thick and transparent. Some sporting goods stores carry it too if hockey is played in your area. It does add a little weight since its thick. Not enough to matter most of the time, but if you are die hard about staying at 1500 grams...
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:51 PM   #4589
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If you are concerned about the bottom of your chassis getting all scratched up, you can put hockey stick tape on it too. You can buy it at some hobby shops. Its the stuff the boat guys use to seal their hatches. Its good stuff. Really thick and transparent. Some sporting goods stores carry it too if hockey is played in your area. It does add a little weight since its thick. Not enough to matter most of the time, but if you are die hard about staying at 1500 grams...
+1. Thanks for the pointer IndyHobbies. I am going to buy a roll.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:39 AM   #4590
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I would be warry of hockey style take as it can easily peel back. I use the Jconcepts Chassis protector sheets. very sticky does come off if you want it to but is thick enough to keep a carbon fiber chassis in perfect condition while running over stuff outside. Also run 6mm ride height for good flat surface but I have gone up to 8mm with no issues in the slower classes. the faster you go the more you can traction roll with a higher ride height
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