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Old 03-15-2013, 01:31 PM   #4366
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I've had to come to terms with this as well. I've been using Gens Ace and Turnigy packs. But now that I'm really digging VTA and plan touring in our Texas EOS I decided to step it up a bit. I didn't spend $100, but $70 shipped seemed reasonable to me for a pack that came at the recommendation of others here.
+1

Eric Anderson's 5000mah 70C 2S packs are rock solid VTA Lipo's.
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:43 PM   #4367
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I am a new RC racer looking to get into the VTA class. I have raced big cars and am very competitive so I want to purchase the very best car I can the first time. I will be running indoors on carpet. Not worried about price just want to know what the best car would be for indoor carpet VTA class.

Thanks
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:45 PM   #4368
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+1

Eric Anderson's 5000mah 70C 2S packs are rock solid VTA Lipo's.
+1000. The team packs are the best packs on the market in the 5000mah group imho. I have 4 of them for vta and usgt and they are very consistent. 2 of the packs are 5 months older, but there is no performance difference between them and the newer ones.
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F14 carpet Oval Chassis too!
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:46 PM   #4369
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Originally Posted by fiveothis View Post
I am a new RC racer looking to get into the VTA class. I have raced big cars and am very competitive so I want to purchase the very best car I can the first time. I will be running indoors on carpet. Not worried about price just want to know what the best car would be for indoor carpet VTA class.

Thanks
Xray t3 or t4
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Pemberton SJ27 / Tekin RS / Bullet 13.5 / EAM 5000 / Savox 1251 / 13.5 Pro EDM

TLR22 / Tekin RS / D4SS 6.5 / Futaba 9551 / ORCA 6000 /SCMOD,
F14 carpet Oval Chassis too!
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Old 03-15-2013, 02:51 PM   #4370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveothis View Post
I am a new RC racer looking to get into the VTA class. I have raced big cars and am very competitive so I want to purchase the very best car I can the first time. I will be running indoors on carpet. Not worried about price just want to know what the best car would be for indoor carpet VTA class.

Thanks
Xray t3 or t4
+1
If price is not a concern, get yourself an Xray T4 for VTA.
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:17 PM   #4371
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd View Post
No worries Mike, you can also try my battery on tuesday as well for comparison.

We bring in the BG packs about every 2 weeks or so. Darrald has done a great job with his packs.

Side note, the web store price may be slightly higher than what you would get them for at the LHS.
Thanks Eric, I'd love to give one a run during practice so I can see side by side differences. Considering my packs are older the BG packs will definitely out perform my Gens Ace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodarbal View Post
I've had to come to terms with this as well. I've been using Gens Ace and Turnigy packs. But now that I'm really digging VTA and plan touring in our Texas EOS I decided to step it up a bit. I didn't spend $100, but $70 shipped seemed reasonable to me for a pack that came at the recommendation of others here.
You really can't beat Gens Ace when you can get them for right around $35 shipped but you do sacrifice overall performance of the RC Car. I'll be saving up for one of the Battery Giants that were mentioned earlier.
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Old 03-16-2013, 08:16 AM   #4372
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Has anyone tried switching from O.E. belts to Kevlar belts with positive results? I understand that the rolling resistance will not change but will the car have more 'pull' out of a corner with aftermarket belts?
"Less belt stretch" or I'm barking up the wrong tree? Sure does seem that the tc4's are animals on exit around the turns. Don't want to start a debate. Just asking if it maybe worth the investment.
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:25 AM   #4373
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Has anyone tried switching from O.E. belts to Kevlar belts with positive results? I understand that the rolling resistance will not change but will the car have more 'pull' out of a corner with aftermarket belts?
"Less belt stretch" or I'm barking up the wrong tree? Sure does seem that the tc4's are animals on exit around the turns. Don't want to start a debate. Just asking if it maybe worth the investment.
everything starts a debate on this thread! I personally have no idea whether it makes a difference or not.
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Old 03-16-2013, 12:13 PM   #4374
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Originally Posted by team mopar View Post
Has anyone tried switching from O.E. belts to Kevlar belts with positive results? I understand that the rolling resistance will not change but will the car have more 'pull' out of a corner with aftermarket belts?
"Less belt stretch" or I'm barking up the wrong tree? Sure does seem that the tc4's are animals on exit around the turns. Don't want to start a debate. Just asking if it maybe worth the investment.
Quite a few pages back on this thread a few posts was made about running your rear belt loose and the front tighter to give the car a different feel coming off the corner. I tried it the next race and have run it that way since. With my driving style it seemed to calm the rear down and allowed me to pull trigger more aggressively without it kicking the rear out.

If you are looking for more "pull" you may try that.
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TLR22 / Tekin RS / D4SS 6.5 / Futaba 9551 / ORCA 6000 /SCMOD,
F14 carpet Oval Chassis too!
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:44 PM   #4375
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Originally Posted by fiveothis View Post
I am a new RC racer looking to get into the VTA class. I have raced big cars and am very competitive so I want to purchase the very best car I can the first time. I will be running indoors on carpet. Not worried about price just want to know what the best car would be for indoor carpet VTA class.

Thanks
If price is no concern and you are mechanically inclined, get an awesomatix. Next on the list would be an Xray. I have both, but the awesomatix is shaft and requires no fluids or different springs. Low center of gravity like the T4, and very durable just like xray. With a US distributor now, its definitely worth a look. If you think you'll need help and no one around has an awesomatix, get an xray.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:25 PM   #4376
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Just setting up a new car to run vta and was looking for help in glueing tires.
What would be the easiest way to get the glue into the outside bead.

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Old 03-16-2013, 10:15 PM   #4377
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Anyone have an awesome setup for a tc3 in vta please post it i'm having traction roll issues on carpet also exit speed isn't great. My setup is as follows

Front
60wt oil
Red springs
2 piston
4 degree caster
0 kickup
0 toe
2 degree camber
2 hole from inside on shock tower
longest highest camber link
Droop 6

Rear
40wt oil
Silver springs
2 pistons
3 degrees toe
2 degrees camber
Short wheelbase
Shocks outside he on shocktower
Camber link longest and lowest on tower longest on hub also


Thanks guys
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:39 PM   #4378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin33 View Post
Anyone have an awesome setup for a tc3 in vta please post it i'm having traction roll issues on carpet also exit speed isn't great. My setup is as follows

Front
60wt oil
Red springs
2 piston
4 degree caster
0 kickup
0 toe
2 degree camber
2 hole from inside on shock tower
longest highest camber link
Droop 6

Rear
40wt oil
Silver springs
2 pistons
3 degrees toe
2 degrees camber
Short wheelbase
Shocks outside he on shocktower
Camber link longest and lowest on tower longest on hub also


Thanks guys
Lots of camber is lots of grip on the front. Try less.
2 easiest tips are sauce/dope less or none of the front tire and super glue 1/8" of the side wall of the fronts right up to the start of the tread surface then sauce accordingly now that the car pushes.

Can increase the spacers under the inner hinge pin mounts i.e. go from 1mm to 2mm spacers to raise the roll center.

More droop in the front and less in the rear to keep the weight transfer off the front end.

Just got done fighting this issue on carpet and asphalt with TC and VTA cars.
Nice to be looking for steering rather than fighting grip rolling.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:02 AM   #4379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin33 View Post
Anyone have an awesome setup for a tc3 in vta please post it i'm having traction roll issues on carpet also exit speed isn't great. My setup is as follows

Front
60wt oil
Red springs
2 piston
4 degree caster
0 kickup
0 toe
2 degree camber
2 hole from inside on shock tower
longest highest camber link
Droop 6

Rear
40wt oil
Silver springs
2 pistons
3 degrees toe
2 degrees camber
Short wheelbase
Shocks outside he on shocktower
Camber link longest and lowest on tower longest on hub also


Thanks guys
I'm currently hunting for a good carpet setup for my TC3 as well, but haven't found it yet. I can say that mine was working decent with a much softer shock setup than yours and 1.5 degrees of camber. Not even close to a traction roll issue and still plenty of steering, but I'm bleeding too much speed in the corners and I'm about 4 tenths off a winning pace.

One thing I've found that helps across the board on all setups is to raise the roll center by raising the suspension blocks. The previous post mentions it but he may be referring to a TC4 because it isn't quite that simple.

If you put 2 x 0.020 washers under both the front and rear inner suspension pin mounts, you raise the roll center about 1mm. However, you have to compensate on the outer pin blocks so you don't wind up with crazy angles on your suspension mounts. In this circumstance, use an F-2 block in front to wind up with 0 kickup. Use R-3-0 block in the rear to maintain the stock 2 degrees of kickup/anti-squat. Doing this will raise the roll center on the whole car 1mm, which should help the traction roll problem. You may also have to make an adjustment to your upper camber links if you raise the blocks this way.

Last edited by beemerfan; 03-17-2013 at 05:01 PM. Reason: Corrected reference to roll center.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:45 AM   #4380
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Originally Posted by beemerfan View Post
I'm currently hunting for a good carpet setup for my TC3 as well, but haven't found it yet. I can say that mine was working decent with a much softer shock setup than yours and 1.5 degrees of camber. Not even close to a traction roll issue and still plenty of steering, but I'm bleeding too much speed in the corners and I'm about 4 tenths off a winning pace.

One thing I've found that helps across the board on all setups is to lower the roll center by raising the suspension blocks. The previous post mentions it but he may be referring to a TC4 because it isn't quite that simple.

If you put 2 x 0.020 washers under both the front and rear inner suspension pin mounts, you lower the roll center about 1mm. However, you have to compensate on the outer pin blocks so you don't wind up with crazy angles on your suspension mounts. In this circumstance, use an F-2 block in front to wind up with 0 kickup. Use R-3-0 block in the rear to maintain the stock 2 degrees of kickup/anti-squat. Doing this will lower the roll center on the whole car 1mm which should help the traction roll problem. You may also have to make an adjustment to your upper camber links if you raise the blocks this way.
I was just reading the TC4 manual and you have the roll center backwards.
Raising the arm mounts raises the roll center, and vice versa.
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