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Old 03-10-2013, 10:32 PM   #4291
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Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Unsolder it - add some wires - relocate it... Done.
Anything less than what came with it and you're probably looking at problems...
Well sure.. but my OCD has an issue with the cap being half the size of the esc itself. Even if I hide it, I'll still know it's there.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:52 PM   #4292
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Well sure.. but my OCD has an issue with the cap being half the size of the esc itself. Even if I hide it, I'll still know it's there.
Can you replace it with something else? Sure. Should you - No.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:02 AM   #4293
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Someone here may know this, and prevent my mad scientist urge of experimenting on my own...

Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
I replaced the power cap on an older GTB speed control for USVTA with a 16v 1800f capacitor and never had any problem with the speed control or any of the radio equipment as a result. I didn't do it to save space. I did it because I bought a used speed control that came with a damaged stock power cap and had some spares laying around that I had harvested from an old computer board. The stock capacitor is 10v and 5600f with a pcb that has some built in current limiting capabilities. I think with a capacitor that big, you need it. But with a smaller one, there shouldn't be any problem. 10v capacitors are not that common so they are hard to find. But 16v are everywhere and they don't put out more voltage than what is applied to them so it should be safe. The size of the one I used was about the same diameter as the smaller caps used on most other speed controls but about twice the length.

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Old 03-11-2013, 09:15 AM   #4294
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Hey guys, regarding this rule:

Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.


I just saw in the VTA picture thread that this applies to the chassis ride height AND the body ride height. Is this true? If so, why would the body ride height be restricted?
I posted this because I was under the assumption that my front spoiler was much lower than my chassis' ride height of 5mm. Turns out it was at 5.5mm so no harm, no foul. That's what I get for assuming!

Though I am nontheless curious of the reasoning behind the rule. Is it to promote realistic looking ride heights?
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:18 AM   #4295
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Someone here may know this, and prevent my mad scientist urge of experimenting on my own...

Is there a smaller capacitor that will work with the GTB2 other than the behemoth it comes with? Novak of course always recommends the stock cap, but I wouldn't be anywhere close to the esc rating running it with a 25.5 and that thing really is in the way mounting it in the car.
I stuck mine on top of the esc with servo tape, meh it works
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #4296
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I posted this because I was under the assumption that my front spoiler was much lower than my chassis' ride height of 5mm. Turns out it was at 5.5mm so no harm, no foul. That's what I get for assuming!

Though I am nontheless curious of the reasoning behind the rule. Is it to promote realistic looking ride heights?
mainly to protect the carpet and keep bodies and chassis from rubbing it excessively and wearing the carpet
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:34 AM   #4297
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mainly to protect the carpet and keep bodies and chassis from rubbing it excessively and wearing the carpet
Ah! Now that makes sense. We don't race on carpet so I hadn't considered that the cars could damage it. Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:38 AM   #4298
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Anybody know how to change the bearing in the end cap of the 25.5 Novak Ballistic motor ? There's no way to get behind it to knock it out like the other end (shaft end).
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:08 AM   #4299
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Ah! Now that makes sense. We don't race on carpet so I hadn't considered that the cars could damage it. Thanks!
Oh, but you WILL. You will....








Mike's is indoor carpet. And we have to race there.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:32 AM   #4300
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Oh, but you WILL. You will....








Mike's is indoor carpet. And we have to race there.
Yessiree! And I'm looking forward to it. Haven't raced on carpet since 1992 at the Louisiana 1/12 scale championships.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #4301
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Ah! Now that makes sense. We don't race on carpet so I hadn't considered that the cars could damage it. Thanks!
The reason for ride heights when running on temporary tracks outside (parking lots for example) is to prevent low chassis/bodies from cutting the transponder loop. Many temporary tracks that use AMB systems will duct tape the loop down on the track surface. A low chassis/body can slice through the tape/loop.

Some facilities use a bridge type loop a few feet above the racing surface. A bridge system is normally required for Infrared transponder systems. Other permanent outdoor tracks will install the loop in or under the racing surface. On these type of tracks, you don't have to worry about cutting the loop.

Another issue with ride height has been mentioned before. A chassis/body that is too close to the track surface has the potential to drag during racing. On bumpy on-road tracks if the chassis/body drags the track surface it can prevent the suspension from working properly. Depending on how poor the racing surface is, you may need to raise the ride height above 6mm to have a consistently handling car.

Some people do like to slam their bodies in VTA, and it can look a bit out of scale. However, there is limit to how low you can mount a body before the front tires start rubbing the hood (or bonnet for UK racers). When tires excessively rub the body, the result can be an inconsistent handling car. Thankfully on all of the VTA bodies I've run (almost all of them), if you mount the body with the cut line even with the chassis it will look/run great (with little to no tire rub).

One final thought on ride height. A few years ago at the USVTA Nats @ Harbor Hobbies, there was a banked corner on the driver's left end of the track. Cars set too low were having major problems with the transition between the flat track and the banked curve. It was necessary to run a higher than normal ride height at this race to be competitive. I saw some racers at 7mm chassis height to compensate for the banking. So a word of warning to everyone heading to the USVTA Nats in April: Eric Whiteside @ Harbor Hobbies likes to throw in a curveball to keep the racers on their toes.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:23 PM   #4302
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Thanks, Indy! Yeah, we run an overhead loop on our temporary track. I hadn't considered one taped to the ground before. Fortunately, I'd considered the other items you mentioned which is why mine wasn't too low to begin with. Good information, for sure...
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:14 PM   #4303
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I haven't seen ducktape on a surface in many many years. So are all vta big races only ran on the rug?
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:20 PM   #4304
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Originally Posted by trytowin View Post
Anybody know how to change the bearing in the end cap of the 25.5 Novak Ballistic motor ? There's no way to get behind it to knock it out like the other end (shaft end).
I took a 1/16" drill bit and carefully drilled the alunimum, against the endcap, in the direction of the bearing. There is a small gap of space behind the bearing that you will partially open when the bit hits the edge of the bearing. Once there I took a snapmark tool and kept pushing it until it moved the bearing. Once the bearing moved I was able to take a small pick and pull it out.

I call the tool a snapmark, unsure of the real name but its a spring loaded " pen " looking tool that has a sharp tapered tip. When you push down on it it snaps and puts an indention in metal. We use them to mark centers for holes that we drill in electrical panels. I wish I knew the real name of it
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:38 PM   #4305
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I took a 1/16" drill bit and carefully drilled the alunimum, against the endcap, in the direction of the bearing. There is a small gap of space behind the bearing that you will partially open when the bit hits the edge of the bearing. Once there I took a snapmark tool and kept pushing it until it moved the bearing. Once the bearing moved I was able to take a small pick and pull it out.

I call the tool a snapmark, unsure of the real name but its a spring loaded " pen " looking tool that has a sharp tapered tip. When you push down on it it snaps and puts an indention in metal. We use them to mark centers for holes that we drill in electrical panels. I wish I knew the real name of it
Ok thanks, I know what you're talking about. I've used that same tool !!

It's called a "Automatic Center Punch"
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Last edited by trytowin; 03-11-2013 at 04:41 PM. Reason: added info
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