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Old 02-06-2013, 06:06 PM   #4066
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Looks fine!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:33 PM   #4067
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Default Help Me PLEASE! Gearing

OK I am attempting to set up a TC4 for the VTA races. I am having a heck of a time with gearing. I am attempting to get to the 3.5 - 4.0 FRD neighborhood. From what I hear most of the peeps at my local track are in the 3.5 area. I know about the various calculators and have been using them. My problem is getting gear that will actually fit in the space and mesh properly. I started with a 49T spur 48pitch and 31T Pinion 3.9 FDR not enough adjustment to get the pinion and spur to touch, about an 1/8th" short. My next try was going to be 60T Spur and 39T Pinion. for a 3.8 FDR I just checked the 39T pinion and the gear is too big and hitting the chassis. Looks like I can alter the chassis with a dremel, but before I do that I figured I would turn to the interweb to see if I can get some help.
Thanks
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:02 PM   #4068
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Go to 64pitch gears - it will save you a lot of time/trouble, allow finer adjustments, and run quieter/smoother.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:25 PM   #4069
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Gearing on a TC4...If you can find a FT TC4 (double deck carbon fibre car), you won't have to dremel under the pinion. If you are running a tub TC3/4, you will have to dremel under the pinion. It doesn't affect the handling of the car.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:37 PM   #4070
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Originally Posted by rctoyguy View Post
Go to 64pitch gears - it will save you a lot of time/trouble, allow finer adjustments, and run quieter/smoother.
If I change to 64 pitch I will still have the same problem. The diameter of the actual gear will be the same as 48p (or close to it). I am not opposed to changing to 64p I was thinking the 48p would be more forgiving to improper gear mesh.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:40 PM   #4071
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Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
Gearing on a TC4...If you can find a FT TC4 (double deck carbon fibre car), you won't have to dremel under the pinion. If you are running a tub TC3/4, you will have to dremel under the pinion. It doesn't affect the handling of the car.

Thanks Indy It doesn't look like I need to remove much material to get the clearance, until I start gearing up if needed.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:38 AM   #4072
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Default Driver Figures

Here are some of the newer driver figure inserts that are becoming available for those that may not know.

http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/107371/
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:50 AM   #4073
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Default Tire gluing question

I am new at on road and sure to have many more questions I appreciate all the help. OK I know to glue the tire on the bead my question is do you glue the small flap the comes over the tire as well? I did a search and it seems some do and some don't, is there benefits either way?
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:50 AM   #4074
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Default TC4 Gearing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tajar66 View Post
OK I am attempting to set up a TC4 for the VTA races. I am having a heck of a time with gearing. I am attempting to get to the 3.5 - 4.0 FRD neighborhood. From what I hear most of the peeps at my local track are in the 3.5 area. I know about the various calculators and have been using them. My problem is getting gear that will actually fit in the space and mesh properly. I started with a 49T spur 48pitch and 31T Pinion 3.9 FDR not enough adjustment to get the pinion and spur to touch, about an 1/8th" short. My next try was going to be 60T Spur and 39T Pinion. for a 3.8 FDR I just checked the 39T pinion and the gear is too big and hitting the chassis. Looks like I can alter the chassis with a dremel, but before I do that I figured I would turn to the interweb to see if I can get some help.
Thanks
Hello,

Getting the correct ratio on the TC4 can be a bit of a challenge.

48 pitch will be fine, 64 pitch is better but not manditory. I use the robinson racing 52T spur gear (White) and this allows me to install a 33 - 40 tooth pinion into the car netting a gear ratio range of 3.93 - 3.25 FDR. You will have to grind some of the chassis webing out below where the Pinion gear will set otherwise a 35 or larger pinion will rub on the webing.

If you need a larger gear ratio (Higher number) You can go with the 66 tooth spur gear and get up to a 34 or 35 tooth or smaller pinion giving you 4.0+ FDR ratios.

I like right around 3.8 - 3.7 ratio range for most track other than really large ones with my VTA car.

Hope this helps!
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:11 AM   #4075
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Originally Posted by JFuel11 View Post
Hello,

Getting the correct ratio on the TC4 can be a bit of a challenge.

48 pitch will be fine, 64 pitch is better but not manditory. I use the robinson racing 52T spur gear (White) and this allows me to install a 33 - 40 tooth pinion into the car netting a gear ratio range of 3.93 - 3.25 FDR. You will have to grind some of the chassis webing out below where the Pinion gear will set otherwise a 35 or larger pinion will rub on the webing.

If you need a larger gear ratio (Higher number) You can go with the 66 tooth spur gear and get up to a 34 or 35 tooth or smaller pinion giving you 4.0+ FDR ratios.

I like right around 3.8 - 3.7 ratio range for most track other than really large ones with my VTA car.

Hope this helps!
Thank JFuel11,
That is exactly what I was looking for. RCTECH is awesome for help everyone here ROCKS!!
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:30 AM   #4076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tajar66 View Post
I am new at on road and sure to have many more questions I appreciate all the help. OK I know to glue the tire on the bead my question is do you glue the small flap the comes over the tire as well? I did a search and it seems some do and some don't, is there benefits either way?

The OEM tires come on the Sprint 2 from HPI do have the flaps glued...
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #4077
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Glue the flaps, less squirm of the tire tread and helps to keep from the flap grabbing the track and causing a traction roll
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Old 02-07-2013, 11:44 AM   #4078
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I run robinson 60t 48p spurs on my TC3 & TC4, yes you need to remove some plastic under the pinion.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:37 PM   #4079
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Tommy, over in the paint thread asked how people are mounting their drivers and I mentioned there and a while back I would share my technique.

I used some scrap lexan to fold some brackets to hold my figure in the proper place when the body is on. I wanted to mount the figure to the chassis so I wouldn't have to switch him back and forth when I changed bodies.

There are two brackets. One long one in an upside down "u" shape that is servo tapped to the receiver then then up to the figure and then towards the back of the driver to the top deck where it is again attached with tape. I added another one that goes down the back of the driver to the chassis under the motor to help keep him still. The first one was enough but he wobbled around a bit so I added the other one.

The driver is from the double HPI set for their desert truck I think. My brother has the other one. Mounting it this way lets me position the driver where I think he looks best in the car.





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Old 02-07-2013, 09:08 PM   #4080
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Ready for battle

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