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Old 04-09-2012, 02:46 PM   #391
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and if we really wanted to be anal about it we would be running F103GT's for the 2wd live axle feel of an old muscle car. Then these things really would be a handful.
That would be a lot of fun. I can't wait to build a gtp car on a f103. They aren't really hard to set up and drive just very different techniques. I may drop my 25.5 and a mustang body on it just because.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:45 PM   #392
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[QUOTE=snoopyrc;10573003]190 +6+6=202 plus you have to consider that the wheel and tire are 31mm not 26. That's another 5mm on each side.


The way that I understand wheel width and offset is that if you had two wheels with the same offset, but one was 5 mm wider, the extra width would be split evenly between the two parts of the wheel on either side of the mounting plate. The wheel would stick out 2.5 mm farther and also come 2.5 mm closer to the chassis on the inside. Offset on the other hand is all one way or the other. With two wheels of the same width, but one with a 6 mm offset, the one with the 6mm offset will stick out the full 6mm and the inner edge of the wheel would also be 6 mm farther away from the chassis.

Therefore, under my understanding, the outer edge of the rear wheel on our VTA cars sticks out 8.5 mm farther than the front wheel, and the inner edge is 3.5 farther out. (6 mm offset reduced by the 2.5 extra inner width)
8.5 + 8.5 = 17 mm wider overall in the rear.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:45 PM   #393
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[QUOTE=Rufus2010;10580179]
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
190 +6+6=202 plus you have to consider that the wheel and tire are 31mm not 26. That's another 5mm on each side.


The way that I understand wheel width and offset is that if you had two wheels with the same offset, but one was 5 mm wider, the extra width would be split evenly between the two parts of the wheel on either side of the mounting plate. The wheel would stick out 2.5 mm farther and also come 2.5 mm closer to the chassis on the inside. Offset on the other hand is all one way or the other. With two wheels of the same width, but one with a 6 mm offset, the one with the 6mm offset will stick out the full 6mm and the inner edge of the wheel would also be 6 mm farther away from the chassis.

Therefore, under my understanding, the outer edge of the rear wheel on our VTA cars sticks out 8.5 mm farther than the front wheel, and the inner edge is 3.5 farther out. (6 mm offset reduced by the 2.5 extra inner width)
8.5 + 8.5 = 17 mm wider overall in the rear.
wow...that's a whole lot of over thinking

if you are running a car that's designated as a 190mm chassis (which most of us are), then the 31mm +6 wheel work on the back of all the bodies...assuming you are running a 5-ish mm wheel hex, even a 6mm will be fine..I know on my TCX, I have the 5mm hexes with a red tamiya wheel spacer (don't know the size off hand) and I don't have any issues..

I know almost all the HPI bodies are wider in the rear then the front - even the protoform is the same way..

we've all seen images of the pegasus bodies that are, well, just plain WIDE

and parma's work...

maybe I just like things simple
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:50 PM   #394
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I'm running in USVTA with A EDGE and SS motor combo. I'm now considering gettig a Balistic 25.5 and just wanted to know if this is a faster motor? I've heard rumors that SS motors can be faster but it depends on the batch and I dont have the money to be out running through motors till I find that gem......

Are there any conditions where one motor might be better than the other. I curently race a mid sized technical track layout with a TC6.

Does everyone just crank the Timing all the way up on the ballistics or has anyone found that sweet spot.
only advantage over a SS, is its rebuildable....nothing more...

and I dont know about any batch of motors, but Ive had awesome luck with all 3 of mine...SS reman, SS new, Ballastic stator....no issues at all...

I never crank my time on the motor all the way up....its a sweet spot to every motor...along with the gearing(FDR)...always remember a cool motor is a fast motor, and more consistant...

For HS, ask Melvin or Joe...
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:02 PM   #395
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I was considering waxing the outside of my shell to lower the coefficient of friction between the boards and my shell.
You haven't *been* doing that? Parma Fashine wash/wax should be your friend... Rookie.

I actually do wash/wax our bodies every week.

Admittedly it's ONLY done because my other half insists on light colored bodies and the black asphalt road rash on the roof drives me nuts, and because I won the bottle of Parma stuff in a raffle a few years ago.. it *does* make them purty though.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:06 PM   #396
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over think...humm...I have to agree...Ive run 6-8 chassis in VTA , from E10,Sprint 2, TC3/4/5/6, Xray T1/2/3...and they all seem to work with the legal front and rear tires/rim from HPI and bodies....

I dont see an issue?....but for pic

HPI 1970 Cuda on HPI E10
HPI 1968 Camaro on TC3
HPI 1965 Mustang GT on TC4
HPI 1965 Mustang GT on TC5
HPI 1968 Camaro on TC5
Attached Thumbnails
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-07-19-08_2127.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-68-chevy-camaro...usvta-2008.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-my-pics-898.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-usvta-nationals-2009-069.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-usvta-nationals-2009-091.jpg  

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Old 04-09-2012, 05:16 PM   #397
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BMI
Xray T1 with 70 Cuda
Sprint 2
Losi
Xray T2
Attached Thumbnails
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-wednesday-night-ta-001.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-wednesday-night-ta-079.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-wednesday-night-ta-018.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-wednesday-night-ta-016.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2-ta_practice.jpg  

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Old 04-09-2012, 05:58 PM   #398
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Ya know... i've got an F103gt sitting around doing nothing... i might have to try that.

If you want some real fun, go find an RC10DS and throw some VTA rubber on it! The wheelbase is a bit long IIRC, but it was a blast tearing up the street in front of my house!



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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
That would be a lot of fun. I can't wait to build a gtp car on a f103. They aren't really hard to set up and drive just very different techniques. I may drop my 25.5 and a mustang body on it just because.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:29 PM   #399
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Originally Posted by LasagnaCat View Post
You haven't *been* doing that? Parma Fashine wash/wax should be your friend... Rookie.

I actually do wash/wax our bodies every week.

Admittedly it's ONLY done because my other half insists on light colored bodies and the black asphalt road rash on the roof drives me nuts, and because I won the bottle of Parma stuff in a raffle a few years ago.. it *does* make them purty though.
That's some great advice. Thank you L-Cat. I'll get some high-shine car wax and put it on my VTA before the next race on Thursday.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:33 PM   #400
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That's some great advice. Thank you L-Cat. I'll get some high-shine car wax and put it on my VTA before the next race on Thursday.
I'll be waiting for the full page photo.
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #401
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Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Ya know... i've got an F103gt sitting around doing nothing... i might have to try that.

If you want some real fun, go find an RC10DS and throw some VTA rubber on it! The wheelbase is a bit long IIRC, but it was a blast tearing up the street in front of my house!
I raced some of those at the VINTAGE ONROAD CHAMPIONSHIP. With my tc3 with the front axle disconnected to make it rear wheel drive. Btw I won that race. Sweet
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:18 PM   #402
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I'll be waiting for the full page photo.
And the half big half little post..
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:32 PM   #403
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Originally Posted by Rufus2010 View Post
The way that I understand wheel width and offset is that if you had two wheels with the same offset, but one was 5 mm wider, the extra width would be split evenly between the two parts of the wheel on either side of the mounting plate. The wheel would stick out 2.5 mm farther and also come 2.5 mm closer to the chassis on the inside. Offset on the other hand is all one way or the other. With two wheels of the same width, but one with a 6 mm offset, the one with the 6mm offset will stick out the full 6mm and the inner edge of the wheel would also be 6 mm farther away from the chassis.

Therefore, under my understanding, the outer edge of the rear wheel on our VTA cars sticks out 8.5 mm farther than the front wheel, and the inner edge is 3.5 farther out. (6 mm offset reduced by the 2.5 extra inner width)
8.5 + 8.5 = 17 mm wider overall in the rear.

That makes sense in theory, but I have been under the impression that the Vintage HPI shells were 200mm front and 210mm rear. I guess I read that. Thought I got it from HPIs material. My VTA chassis fits well under HPI shells and I have measured it with rims on at 190mm F 200mm R. So my hands are up. My shoulders are shrugged. I don't know man.

Thats pretty good math though. I will have to measure the rear wheel of the VTA set to see if its 2.5mm more from the hex hole to the inside edge of the rim.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:25 AM   #404
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
That makes sense in theory, but I have been under the impression that the Vintage HPI shells were 200mm front and 210mm rear. I guess I read that. Thought I got it from HPIs material. My VTA chassis fits well under HPI shells and I have measured it with rims on at 190mm F 200mm R. So my hands are up. My shoulders are shrugged. I don't know man.

Thats pretty good math though. I will have to measure the rear wheel of the VTA set to see if its 2.5mm more from the hex hole to the inside edge of the rim.
not sure if ALL the HPI vintage bodies are that dimension - but they are all 200 in the front and wider in the rear, to account for the wider rear tires
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:33 AM   #405
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190 +6+6=202 plus you have to consider that the wheel and tire are 31mm not 26. That's another 5mm on each side.
The way that I understand wheel width and offset is that if you had two wheels with the same offset, but one was 5 mm wider, the extra width would be split evenly between the two parts of the wheel on either side of the mounting plate. The wheel would stick out 2.5 mm farther and also come 2.5 mm closer to the chassis on the inside. Offset on the other hand is all one way or the other. With two wheels of the same width, but one with a 6 mm offset, the one with the 6mm offset will stick out the full 6mm and the inner edge of the wheel would also be 6 mm farther away from the chassis.

Therefore, under my understanding, the outer edge of the rear wheel on our VTA cars sticks out 8.5 mm farther than the front wheel, and the inner edge is 3.5 farther out. (6 mm offset reduced by the 2.5 extra inner width)
8.5 + 8.5 = 17 mm wider overall in the rear.
After spending all that time making sure your car's wheels are flush with your car's body I certainly hope that you've spent enough time practicing on the track and getting your line down so that you don't clip a corner of the board and put a rip in your car's body, or worse, catch one of your front tires on the board and damage your steering parts.
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