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Old 12-14-2012, 08:11 PM   #3271
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Thats what is killing me for the birds is the cost. $160.00 bucks to run two classes is just way to much for me to afford on my budget so I had to loose one class, unfortunately its VTA which is my fun factor class. Oblegated for pan car class. A price break for the second class would have been nice but I understand they have bills to pay also. But I will be on the track with you guys in spirit for sure.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:14 PM   #3272
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Originally Posted by WD40 View Post
So how come your posting pictures of the 2011 VTA Southern Nats and not the record breaking 2012 VTA Southern Nats?
middle pic with Scott is from 2012...but here is some more
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:20 PM   #3273
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Originally Posted by shadowracer24 View Post
Thats what is killing me for the birds is the cost. $160.00 bucks to run two classes is just way to much for me to afford on my budget so I had to loose one class, unfortunately its VTA which is my fun factor class. Oblegated for pan car class. A price break for the second class would have been nice but I understand they have bills to pay also. But I will be on the track with you guys in spirit for sure.
just the other way around for me...USVTA is the only way Ill travel...no matter what the entry fee is...lol..if you have an event under USVTA rules, Im doing all I can to be there
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:10 PM   #3274
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A few local guys that I race with also like to race big events. They usually race the "big" classes. Over the past several years I've watched them constantly buying new chassis with the latest "go fast parts", latest 17.5 or 21.5 "must have motors", the current "best performing batteries", the current "will take tenths off your laptime" tires, etc..etc..

Why do those racers feel like they have to buy all of that equipment? Well, one of the reasons is that they are running classes that are following ROAR rules. Another reason is that they feel that they have to have what is currently considered the "best" equipment to have a chance at winning (because all of the other fast guys have the "good" stuff too). Of course all of this spending rarely translates to better finishes for the majority of the "spend to go fast" crowd.

I race USVTA because you don't need to keep spending money to be competitive. Any combination of legal equipment is capable of winning (including 10 year old chassis design). Maybe VTA isn't pushing the limits of technology, but it will push you into becoming a better racer (notice I didn't say driver), if you want to be on the podium.

In my opinion the current USVTA rules have created a stable long-term class where setup and driving are rewarded instead of deep pockets. If an indvidual track or local club wants to run VTA per ROAR rules, that is an option. But it has been proven multiple times that a fully legal USVTA car with "subpar electronics" is capable of beating the other ROAR legal VTA cars.
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Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 12-15-2012 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:27 PM   #3275
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great choice...dont forget the RPM bumper...helps to keep the c-hubs from getting broken...and as Will pointed out below.
do you guys have a part number for this bumper. if it really helps for those who can't stay away from the walls and breaking front end parts, then i need it for my car.

it looks like we are going to have a new vintage class for the Roadrunners R/C Club in southern california. there are about 15 to 20 guys building new cars for next year. it looks and sounds like a great class to run. how strict is everyone on the rules? i have read them and they are perfect. close and tight racing, now that's fun.

thanks for any info you can supply to us here on the west coast.
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:10 PM   #3276
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will adding sway bars to a tc4 club help stop traction rolling ?
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:50 PM   #3277
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Adding a swaybar kit to the tc4, will not make it stop traction rolling. If you change(lower) your arm mounts all the way down, you will stop traction rolling to a degree, but many more changes can be done to help your Car corner better. You'll need to checkout the tc4 forum, so you can be pointed in the right direction....
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:53 PM   #3278
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Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
will adding sway bars to a tc4 club help stop traction rolling ?
This is a vague question with out knowing what setup you have on your car. It would be like asking if using a band-aid will help the bleeding from a bullet hole.
Yes they might help but there is probably more things going on that might be better to help you out then just throwing this band-aid over the bullet hole.

Give us more information about your set and Im sure we will be able to help you out.

Shock oil and springs?
Are the sideswalls of your tires glued up?
How Old are your tires? Newer tires traction roll less when the grip is higher.
Is your car traction rolling 1 direction only?
Does it traction roll on corner entry or corner exit?
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:26 PM   #3279
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Default tc4 club

sorry about that guys.

here's what we have right now.

Older tires ( fronts maybe 3 more race days left at best)
rear tires good tread.

blue springs all around, 35 wt oil front, 30 rear. 5.5 mm ride heigth, 3mm OVR droop front and rear. front shocks all the way in on top, outer on bottom. Rear shocks 2 from inside on top, outside on bottom. front camber link stock position inside(.030 spacer inside). no spacers outside. rear camber link all the way inside .050 spacer inside, inner hole rear hub.
front camber 0
rear camber -1
no sway bars right now.

any suggestions is appreciated.
Mike

the car is rolling middle corner, high grip track.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:59 PM   #3280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
sorry about that guys.

here's what we have right now.

Older tires ( fronts maybe 3 more race days left at best)
rear tires good tread.

blue springs all around, 35 wt oil front, 30 rear. 5.5 mm ride heigth, 3mm OVR droop front and rear. front shocks all the way in on top, outer on bottom. Rear shocks 2 from inside on top, outside on bottom. front camber link stock position inside(.030 spacer inside). no spacers outside. rear camber link all the way inside .050 spacer inside, inner hole rear hub.
front camber 0
rear camber -1
no sway bars right now.

any suggestions is appreciated.
Mike

the car is rolling middle corner, high grip track.
Glue the outside sidewalls of your front tires first.
Glue the outside sidewalls of your rear tires.
Shorten your front camber link and raise it up .030.
Install largest front sway bar and smallest rear sway bar.
Stand up front shocks 1 hole on shock tower.
Rebuild your shocks with fresh oil try 40wt up front keep 30wt in the rear.
Take 1mm of droop out of the car all the way around.
Go up 1 spring rate higher in the front.
Shorten rear camber link move outside one hole on the inside rear location.

This is what I would do in this order. If you have time try these one at a time so you can see what is doing what so you will know what to does and doesnt work for you.

Best of luck.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:06 AM   #3281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miket3 View Post
sorry about that guys.

here's what we have right now.

Older tires ( fronts maybe 3 more race days left at best)
rear tires good tread.

blue springs all around, 35 wt oil front, 30 rear. 5.5 mm ride heigth, 3mm OVR droop front and rear. front shocks all the way in on top, outer on bottom. Rear shocks 2 from inside on top, outside on bottom. front camber link stock position inside(.030 spacer inside). no spacers outside. rear camber link all the way inside .050 spacer inside, inner hole rear hub.
front camber 0
rear camber -1
no sway bars right now.

any suggestions is appreciated.
Mike

the car is rolling middle corner, high grip track.
I've only been through a few sets of tires but it seems once u start to traction roll u may as well get the new tires ready to go. This might let u keep your current setup in tact.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:08 PM   #3282
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Default HPI Mustang Coupe Body

Anybody have experience with the HPI Mustang Coupe body? I seem to recall hearing that body does not fit well over the 31mm rear tires.
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Old 12-16-2012, 04:58 PM   #3283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Glue the outside sidewalls of your front tires first.
Glue the outside sidewalls of your rear tires.
Shorten your front camber link and raise it up .030.
Install largest front sway bar and smallest rear sway bar.
Stand up front shocks 1 hole on shock tower.
Rebuild your shocks with fresh oil try 40wt up front keep 30wt in the rear.
Take 1mm of droop out of the car all the way around.
Go up 1 spring rate higher in the front.
Shorten rear camber link move outside one hole on the inside rear location.

This is what I would do in this order. If you have time try these one at a time so you can see what is doing what so you will know what to does and doesnt work for you.

Best of luck.
thanks Kevin
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:03 PM   #3284
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gluing the sidewalls works very well for me...I would try that 1st like stated
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #3285
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Originally Posted by BigBrute_347 View Post
Anybody have experience with the HPI Mustang Coupe body? I seem to recall hearing that body does not fit well over the 31mm rear tires.
I didnt have any issues with mine...its a 200mm like most of them

I also like the 2 different stripe scheme that comes with it...great decals with it
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