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Old 11-13-2012, 10:11 AM   #2656
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I'm a big fan of black & white, enforceable rules. As it sits the tire treatment rule is neither of those. There are 2 ways to deal with the rule, either clamp down or loosen up. The clamp down would be to completely do away with tire treatments all together. The enforcement would be not allowing people to put it on @ the track & allow race organizers to toss out any tire that seems to have been softened at all. The other alternative would be to open it up & only disallow things that are unsafe (fire). This will eventually lead to folks softening tires to the point you only get 1 race out of them. To combat that situation you can put a minimum tread rule in place. This can be anywhere from "There must discernable tread all the across the carcass of the tire at the completion of the race" to "at the completion of the race the tread depth must be a minimum of XXcm at any point on the tire."

Personally, as a current non-racer who will eventually find a track to race at, I feel the 1st rule more follows "the Spirit of USVTA" & would forcibly promote better driving.
In most cases the decision of how to enforce any tire rules is usually left to the track owner or race director. When we have big sanctioned races at my local track, all the VTA tires are visually inspected to make sure that no part of the tire is slick. There should be at least 0.02 mm tread depth all across the VTA tires. Our track only allows the use of Paragon tire sauce.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:25 AM   #2657
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Hey guys, I have been racing vta (and touring cars in general) for two months and have been developing some strange tire wear. There is a standing ridge forming on the inside of my rear tires where I have the red line marked. Any ideas what is causing this?
Your foams are sliding to the outside of the tire leaving no form on the inside after the sidewall. Might try some thin 2 sided tape on the rim before putting the foam on to keep the foam from sliding and bunching up on outside
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:29 PM   #2658
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Your foams are sliding to the outside of the tire leaving no form on the inside after the sidewall. Might try some thin 2 sided tape on the rim before putting the foam on to keep the foam from sliding and bunching up on outside
To do that would you put the foam on the rim first, Then put the tire over the foam and rim? I've had issues with my pit shimizu foams bunching up on my F1 wheels. I started CA gluing the foam together where it butts together but the CA'ed foam creates a noticeable hard spot after its mounted. I may try this double sided tape idea out.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:36 PM   #2659
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To do that would you put the foam on the rim first, Then put the tire over the foam and rim? I've had issues with my pit shimizu foams bunching up on my F1 wheels. I started CA gluing the foam together where it butts together but the CA'ed foam creates a noticeable hard spot after its mounted. I may try this double sided tape idea out.
Put the tape on the rim, leaving the backing on the exposed side, dont overlap ends. Put the foam in the tire, then assembly on rim. Peel rear side of tire up enough to snag the tape backing with some tweezers or similar. slowly pull the tape backing out and the foam should set down on the now exposed sticky part.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:47 PM   #2660
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Put the tape on the rim, leaving the backing on the exposed side, dont overlap ends. Put the foam in the tire, then assembly on rim. Peel rear side of tire up enough to snag the tape backing with some tweezers or similar. slowly pull the tape backing out and the foam should set down on the now exposed sticky part.
That process would make a good Youtube video.

Which reminds me that gluing tires and painting bodies is much more productive than arguing about tire sauce and paint jobs, so get crackin boys.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:49 PM   #2661
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That process would make a good Youtube video.
Yeah I was just thinking that.....but no wheels and tires to do it with, and no video camera that works lol. Scott taught me that at the Southern Nats
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:57 PM   #2662
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I've never had the foams slide like that, but one of you can show me sometime and I will redo it at home with the hat cam. Are you using servo tape or real thin carpet tape?
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:02 PM   #2663
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just thin 2 sided tape from auto store.
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:12 PM   #2664
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the instructions for the tamiya F104 on how to attach foam tires to the rims have a real good example of how to do the inner foam tape thing
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Old 11-13-2012, 04:17 PM   #2665
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3M Foam Adhesive spray works wonders AND its flexible.
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:28 PM   #2666
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I started CA gluing the foam together where it butts together but the CA'ed foam creates a noticeable hard spot after its mounted.
That's why you use what the 1/12 guys use to repair there foam tires. Speed Sew
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:17 AM   #2667
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That's why you use what the 1/12 guys use to repair there foam tires. Speed Sew
Never heard of that. Thanks.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:27 PM   #2668
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just wanted to pass some info about the AE TC4 Club Racer Ive been checking out. I ran it Sunday and was able to keep it in the low 12's, even grabbing a 12.1 lap. Here is what Ive done to mine since I pulled it from the box.

I started with adding the electronics, which incl, Hobbywing Justock,Novak SS 25.5 refurb, XP 1313 servo, w/ my M11x radio and RX. I added the AE FT Motor Cooling Duct/Fan Kit and AE FT Graphite Battery Strap. With Zero setup, I was able to grab a 12.8 for fast lap...and avg around 13.2. This is basically taking it out of the box and setting it on the track....

But to get more out of it I went with the TC6.1 shocks and RSD springs and bladders. I also added FT Heavy Duty CVD Bones to the front after breaking one of the plastic ones that come with the car. Not to sure the shocks added anything but better adjustment and easier to setup. The car feels just as fast as my TC6 in VTA. Here is my final setup

TC4 Club Racer
Hobbywing Justock (no setup change)
Novak 25.5 SS refurb 40 deg time
XP 1313 servo
78 spur 54 pinion, FDR 3.61
Front
RSD blue springs
35 AE wt
5mm ride
7mm droop
silver sway bar
-1.5 camber
2 deg caster hubs
Rear
RSD green springs
30 AE wt
5mm ride
6mm droop
black sway bar
-1.5 camber
3 deg toe-in


http://www.teamassociated.com/cars_a...s_accessories/
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:05 PM   #2669
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The only thing that hurts that program is the $15 shipping charge. If you only are buying one thing, it may be less to just buy a new motor. Just double check. The way around it is to send in several items to Novak to combine shipping. The form allows up to 4. Team up with your buddies is what I did.

They offer refurbished too: http://v2.teamnovak.com/products/ind...bebee49f37b8c4

Ya after looking at the program and doing the math its not really worth it because there are cheaper options. thanks anyways
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:49 PM   #2670
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Ya after looking at the program and doing the math its not really worth it because there are cheaper options. thanks anyways
that's the same reason I have two toasted Novak's sitting around now
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