Loosing the rear end when braking and turning ?
03-07-2012, 03:37 PM
#16
Tech Master
you would be correct. but this persons driving style and talk leads me to believe that hes new to onroad.. putting the spool in the front would mean that if he went into turn and hit the brakes, the front end would act as a boat anchor and would make it loose. if you have a spool in your car, try to overdrive/over brake in corners and you will see what i mean. the shock oil will slow down the action of the suspension, thus slowing down how fast the car acts when you turn the wheels. i have personally set up someones car that lives in Austrailia, by him showing me 2 videos, and him doing exactly what i suggested. this guy has sent me messages sayin that there is guys that want to pay him for the setup..just sayin that im pretty good at what i do. plus it dont hurt that i used to setup real race cars for circuit racing! 
ps: not tryin to toot my own horn, just lettin everyone here know that i don know what im talkin about
ps: not tryin to toot my own horn, just lettin everyone here know that i don know what im talkin about
03-07-2012, 03:44 PM
#17
I just built my BD after a long break from racing. My first race with it was a week ago.
My setup was -
40w Associated oil front and rear, #2 pistons, stock rayspeed white front / blue rear springs
stock kit shock, camber, caster locations
ball diff rear, spool front
Sorex 36 tyres
droop - 6 front, 4 rear
5.5mm ride height all round
outdoor medium grip asphalt
I had the same problem you had (loose in the rear during corning entry) for the first 2 laps until the rear tyres came up to operating temps. Then the handling was almost close to dialled.
I come from an off road background, and I suspect you have the same driving style I do, ie, aggressive corner turn in and braking. I do not like on road tourers with a one way.
Since my last meet, I've done the following -
Spec R rear gear diff (1,000cst oil)
BD 630 direct gear on main shaft
one hole out on front shock tower, one hole in on rear shock tower (to just calm the rear end down a little on corner exit)
You can try what others have suggested, but to me there doesn't seem much wrong with your suspension setup. I'd just loose the one way adaptor - or adjust your driving style and drive around it.
My setup was -
40w Associated oil front and rear, #2 pistons, stock rayspeed white front / blue rear springs
stock kit shock, camber, caster locations
ball diff rear, spool front
Sorex 36 tyres
droop - 6 front, 4 rear
5.5mm ride height all round
outdoor medium grip asphalt
I had the same problem you had (loose in the rear during corning entry) for the first 2 laps until the rear tyres came up to operating temps. Then the handling was almost close to dialled.
I come from an off road background, and I suspect you have the same driving style I do, ie, aggressive corner turn in and braking. I do not like on road tourers with a one way.
Since my last meet, I've done the following -
Spec R rear gear diff (1,000cst oil)
BD 630 direct gear on main shaft
one hole out on front shock tower, one hole in on rear shock tower (to just calm the rear end down a little on corner exit)
You can try what others have suggested, but to me there doesn't seem much wrong with your suspension setup. I'd just loose the one way adaptor - or adjust your driving style and drive around it.
03-07-2012, 05:08 PM
#18
Tech Addict
the biggest problem here is using a ball diff in the front. Unless its tighted up almost like a spool, it will always be loose on corner entry
03-07-2012, 05:20 PM
#19
That's not true. Be careful when you use absolute terms. I generally run my front diff 1/4 turn out and it's not "always" loose on entry. Even when it is fully tightend it's still a diff. There could be 100 ways to tune out loose entry, but the best way will be determined by the driver.
03-07-2012, 05:44 PM
#20
ya i figured if i explained it a little bit you would understand. yes..stiffer front end is in order. but to the origional poster..what is 550 shock oil?? not sure where you are located, but im in the US and im only familiar with SAE viscositys. could you explain what 550 weight is?
03-07-2012, 05:58 PM
#21
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
ya i figured if i explained it a little bit you would understand. yes..stiffer front end is in order. but to the origional poster..what is 550 shock oil?? not sure where you are located, but im in the US and im only familiar with SAE viscositys. could you explain what 550 weight is?
03-07-2012, 06:17 PM
#22
That's not true. Be careful when you use absolute terms. I generally run my front diff 1/4 turn out and it's not "always" loose on entry. Even when it is fully tightend it's still a diff. There could be 100 ways to tune out loose entry, but the best way will be determined by the driver.
03-08-2012, 12:35 AM
#23
ok got ya. ya i just always use associated shock oils..someone was tell me about the losi stuff too. ya id say jack it way up...im shootin around my carpet track with 80 in the front with a mid to heavier front spring. its slower to react to large inputs but boy oh boy is this thing stable.
03-08-2012, 04:03 AM
#24
Here is some useful info on shock oils and their ratings. 550 is a rating in cts, not weight. Weight is not a very accurate rating system, while cts is very accurate.
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/shocks/shock.htm
And a chart showing equivalent ratings:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7918439-post8.html
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/shocks/shock.htm
And a chart showing equivalent ratings:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/7918439-post8.html
03-08-2012, 12:13 PM
#25
Summary
Dear all, thanks alot for all your inputs.
I think I get the point, that I need to stiffen the front suspension, with some harder springs. I got 3 different types in my sparebox, all of the harder than the withe ones.
About the viscosity in the shocks, I think I will keep the one that i have in now.
My car is allready fittet with a direct gear on the main shaft, so the problem is not there i think.
Thinking about trying a spool in the front, but I have been told that it will kill the universal shafts within few seconds. And that this is the weak spot on the old MR4 BD model that I have. That's the reason that I am running a thight balldiff in front.
About adding some EXPO on my controller, to get a more gentle action on the servo, is it a + ore - I need to add, and would about 15% be a good starting point ?
Someone wrote about applying TOE out in the front ? All of the drivers I know, dosen't have that on there car.. ?
And finaly, yes I am a rookie to the onroad, with only 9 month experince. Therefore it is much appriciated with all your help !
I think I get the point, that I need to stiffen the front suspension, with some harder springs. I got 3 different types in my sparebox, all of the harder than the withe ones.
About the viscosity in the shocks, I think I will keep the one that i have in now.
My car is allready fittet with a direct gear on the main shaft, so the problem is not there i think.
Thinking about trying a spool in the front, but I have been told that it will kill the universal shafts within few seconds. And that this is the weak spot on the old MR4 BD model that I have. That's the reason that I am running a thight balldiff in front.
About adding some EXPO on my controller, to get a more gentle action on the servo, is it a + ore - I need to add, and would about 15% be a good starting point ?
Someone wrote about applying TOE out in the front ? All of the drivers I know, dosen't have that on there car.. ?
And finaly, yes I am a rookie to the onroad, with only 9 month experince. Therefore it is much appriciated with all your help !
03-08-2012, 12:17 PM
#26
Tech Master
Yes I posted about toe out up front. Not much just 0.5 degrees. Your front won't be as aggressive on corner entry but it will help with corner exit. All of our guys run toe out or straight up zero. By reducing the front agressiveness you won't pressure the rear traction so much.
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