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Old 10-23-2013, 09:59 AM   #1141
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Ok that makes sense about the blocks. But still confused about belts for the D05. Which are the better belts and why?
They are "Better" for different reasons. If you are racing stock, just run the SS belts, otherwise, run the Type R belts.

The SS belts came stock in the D05
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:48 AM   #1142
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The ss belts are better for stock because the outside lamination layer is more flexible and therefore requires less effort to bend around the pulleys. This improves drivetrain efficiency.
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:09 PM   #1143
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Good questions!

The F and E letters are to differentiate the front and rear suspension mounts. The front suspension mounts are only produced in F00, F05 and F10, which will widen the car at the front in 0, .05 and 1 increments. Additionally, the F00 can be used at the front rear to smooth the car and make it less aggressive and can also be used at the rear front instead of the split center suspension mounts.

The changes from adjusting the overall width of the car at the center, is a car that is more stable to drive and feels more locked in. When using the C05 or C10 center suspension mounts at the front rear of the car, be sure that you also change the E suspension mount to maintain proper toe-in as your toe-in will be increased by the amount of the C center suspension mount that was used. As an example, I am currently running the C05 F/R suspension mount with the E20 suspension mount as I want to maintain 2.5 of rear toe-in (Simply add C # to E# for toe value). This weekend, I will most likely be running the C10 F/R suspension mount with the E15 suspension block.

The only belts that fit the VBC Racing Wire D06 are the D06 belts. The SS and Type R belts from the previous VBC car do not fit.

Hopefully this all makes sense.
The chart below can be found on our site under:

Support
-----Product Manuals/Charts

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Old 10-23-2013, 05:18 PM   #1144
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That chart is very helpfull. Thanks. I am looking forward to running my kit, just have to get a few spares and tuning parts and build time.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:25 AM   #1145
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What is the trick to building the shocks without air? The bladders are alot deeper and flatter kn the bottom than I have delt with before. I fill the shock, let air escape, push shaft up to desired rebound and put bladder on. Of course some oil bleeds out as it should, but there is a large air bubble under the bladder. Did anyone else have this issue?
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:16 AM   #1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
What is the trick to building the shocks without air? The bladders are alot deeper and flatter kn the bottom than I have delt with before. I fill the shock, let air escape, push shaft up to desired rebound and put bladder on. Of course some oil bleeds out as it should, but there is a large air bubble under the bladder. Did anyone else have this issue?
Assuming your shocks are properly built, overfill them slightly, push the rod up to the desired level and set the bladder on top making sure that there are no visible air bubbles. Once you are able to seat the bladder somewhat, press it downward and pull the rod back down.

The D05 bladders are a bit softer than the D06 bladders, but they work well nevertheless.

Good luck!
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:12 AM   #1147
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Quote:
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What is the trick to building the shocks without air? The bladders are alot deeper and flatter kn the bottom than I have delt with before. I fill the shock, let air escape, push shaft up to desired rebound and put bladder on. Of course some oil bleeds out as it should, but there is a large air bubble under the bladder. Did anyone else have this issue?
As VBCracingshop said, push the piston rod in (I go all the way with the spring retainer on) and then fill the oil almost to the brim. You can lightly coat the bottom side of the bladder with oil first. I then put the bladder at an angle and slowly mate it to the shock body. Think of like trying to apply a decal. Some oil will spill, wipe it off with tissue, then slowly screw on the shock cap. If done correctly, the piston should not come back out. This is even easier with a hole drilled on the shock cap, which seems to be the hot ticket now.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:43 PM   #1148
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Can anyone tell me if they make 6 deg caster blocks for the D06?
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:13 PM   #1149
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Can anyone tell me if they make 6 deg caster blocks for the D06?
Not as of yet, though kickup can be added with the Center Suspension Mount spacers.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:20 AM   #1150
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Speaking of 6 deg. castor C-hubs... if you want to do something better than the competition - make 5 deg. blocks or even 4.5's. 2 deg's is way too large of a change. 3 deg. blocks might useful too.
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Old 11-27-2013, 10:21 AM   #1151
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I would prefer not to add kick-up to get the desired castor angle.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:04 PM   #1152
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VBC Racing Shop, are there any plans to make anything other than 6 deg caster blocks? The VBC car has been around for a while now (first version), if they haven't made them yet my guess is that they are not going to make them.
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Old 11-27-2013, 01:08 PM   #1153
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In terms of building shocks, swap the order of operation around a little. Place the diaphragm on the shock, with maximum rebound, seat the diaphragm somewhat, set the rebound. This will effectively bleed the shock a little as you set the rebound. I also find it useful to place some shock oil on the diaphragm before placing it on the shock which also helps prevent bubbles. I find the TBB shocks much quicker to build than the previous version.

In terms of changing caster, agreed changing the wishbone angle has other effects which may be undesired.
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:32 PM   #1154
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You rarely see set-ups from any manufacture with other than stock caster blocks. 4 deg seems to be the standard fir everyone. There are so many other ways to tune the car besides caster. Maybe other options hace been tested but found to have little effect on the car. Or at least not enough to make it worth producing. It cost alot of $$$ to produce the molds for parts that will sell in low volume.
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:40 PM   #1155
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You will also see most other manufacturers have different castor blocks because it's an important tuning option. Stock setups usually use kit components.
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